Man of Honour
That's really neat! Love this project.
Ronski's Solar & battery DIY build with whole house backup
- Thread starter Ron-ski
- Start date
The Cerbo GX is alive 
https://vrm.victronenergy.com/installation/252106/share/fdd67cc7
It only shows what the SolarEdge system is generating and the ambient temperature in the garage. Currently its running off a 12v power supply.
The inverter weighs 51kg, so its rather heavy to even carry, let alone lift, so it called for some ingenuity, and the assistance of my daughter.
First we carried it out to the garage, then lifted it on to the workmate, then I stood on two pairs of steps and lifted it on top of the battery rack. Then I put a scaffold board across to some ladders, moved it across and then we slowly raised it up on blocks, until it was high enough to get on to the wall bracket.
Then I needed to centralise it on the bracket, but couldn't budge it, so I got my trolley jack out.
And here it is hanging on the wall.
https://vrm.victronenergy.com/installation/252106/share/fdd67cc7It only shows what the SolarEdge system is generating and the ambient temperature in the garage. Currently its running off a 12v power supply.
The inverter weighs 51kg, so its rather heavy to even carry, let alone lift, so it called for some ingenuity, and the assistance of my daughter.
First we carried it out to the garage, then lifted it on to the workmate, then I stood on two pairs of steps and lifted it on top of the battery rack. Then I put a scaffold board across to some ladders, moved it across and then we slowly raised it up on blocks, until it was high enough to get on to the wall bracket.
Then I needed to centralise it on the bracket, but couldn't budge it, so I got my trolley jack out.
And here it is hanging on the wall.
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Soldato
Jesus that's a unit!
Certainly is, constant 8kW at 25c (4.5kW at 65c), and can peak to 20kW, and can transfer 100A from the grid, hence why I can run the house through it.
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Soldato
Top project this fair play
Soldato
I'd love some eventual cost breakdown stuff and what the outcome is of all of this in the end, but I would wait until it's all ready and done before you bother 
@SBo The electrician said I had to have them, and I have to keep him happy.
@HungryHippos it's adding up to a lot more than I thought it would, but it will be one hell of a system.
@HungryHippos it's adding up to a lot more than I thought it would, but it will be one hell of a system.
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Soldato
It is all the smaller parts that seem to cost an arm and a leg when added up. Also if you are buying tools and such that may get used once more in your ownership (well for me anyhow). I still think you'll be spending way less than the average solar PV(kWp)/battery(kWh) setup but with a much better system overall, which you'll know intimately and be able to diagnose and fix/upgrade.
It certainly does seem to be all the smaller parts, but the prices have risen, as have the prices of metal. Then there's upgrading, so going up an inverter or two sizes which makes sense, but adds a lot of cost, but it will be a very good system that should last a very long time.
And if battery tech changes I'm sure the Victron system could accommodate it so long as it is still 48v.
And if battery tech changes I'm sure the Victron system could accommodate it so long as it is still 48v.
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Nothing done this weekend, had a new fridge to install, a couple of birthdays to celebrate, and fitted an aluminium print bed that I made to my Sidewinder X1 - currently printing a prototype spacer bracket for the isolator switch.
I need to print spacers for the inverter isolator and the two fuse holders.
I need to print spacers for the inverter isolator and the two fuse holders.
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I had a box arrive from America today (Thursday), ordered on Monday - I think that's quicker than most parcels in the UK right now. But then at an excruciating £93 (yes £93) carriage I'd expect it that quick. The contents only cost £37
And what is the contents of this parcel you may wonder, well its a sheet of 24" x 24" x 1/4" foam.
This is not just any old foam, it is Poron foam, not quite the type I wanted, but the only one that I could get that will do the job.
Poron foam is like a spring, compress this particular one 25% and it exerts about 13 PSI, as the cells swell the pressure will increase slightly, but won't exceed the maximum of about 18 PSI. During in charging and discharge each cell expands 0.5mm, the much debated consensus is that the cells will have many more cycles when compressed, 1000's more if done properly. Whether this makes a difference depends on how often you cycle the battery, if not many then it may make no difference and age may get to them first.
This is the foam I'm using 86375K234 Resilient Polyurethane Foam Sheet, Soft, 24" x 24" x 1/4" from McMaster
This foam will be used at either end of each pack of 8 cells, the cells will have GRP G10 separator sheets between them, these sheets have been ordered from Spain - cheapest total price I could find.
Made this today.
Drilled a small hole, cut a slit down the bar, then used a chisel and a press to spread the legs out (no sniggering!)
This is what it is for, hopefully it will still make good contact, as there is a little surface distortion at the lower bolt hole, I should have made it a bit longer really.
Oh and the other catch is the studs are so short on the isolator switch that I can only fit the nut and not the spring washer on. I'll use thread lock on the nut, just to be safe.
Currently printing a double fuse spacer for it.
And what is the contents of this parcel you may wonder, well its a sheet of 24" x 24" x 1/4" foam.
This is not just any old foam, it is Poron foam, not quite the type I wanted, but the only one that I could get that will do the job.
Poron foam is like a spring, compress this particular one 25% and it exerts about 13 PSI, as the cells swell the pressure will increase slightly, but won't exceed the maximum of about 18 PSI. During in charging and discharge each cell expands 0.5mm, the much debated consensus is that the cells will have many more cycles when compressed, 1000's more if done properly. Whether this makes a difference depends on how often you cycle the battery, if not many then it may make no difference and age may get to them first.
This is the foam I'm using 86375K234 Resilient Polyurethane Foam Sheet, Soft, 24" x 24" x 1/4" from McMaster
This foam will be used at either end of each pack of 8 cells, the cells will have GRP G10 separator sheets between them, these sheets have been ordered from Spain - cheapest total price I could find.
Made this today.
Drilled a small hole, cut a slit down the bar, then used a chisel and a press to spread the legs out (no sniggering!)
This is what it is for, hopefully it will still make good contact, as there is a little surface distortion at the lower bolt hole, I should have made it a bit longer really.
Oh and the other catch is the studs are so short on the isolator switch that I can only fit the nut and not the spring washer on. I'll use thread lock on the nut, just to be safe.
Currently printing a double fuse spacer for it.
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Spacers printed and fit nicely, just need to take the Dremel to the fuse covers.
I'd go the 16Ton version for the longer length handles, makes crimping a bit easier, you still have to use all your strength
A lot of crimping to do.
I've been crimping the 70mm inverter cables today, and I wish I had an electric one, never mind a 16t one. The lugs are heavy duty so you can get three crimps on them.
Back box for the isolator and fuse holders fitted.
Made an insert for the back of the isolator, there wasn't enough room to fit the spring washers, so I've used thread lock on the nuts, and this insert acts as an insulator between the ends of the copper bar (7mm gap) and locators for the nuts, not that I'd imagine they'd ever come loose.
I've actually got quite a lot more done than shown here, the four cables to the inverter are made, just need to put the heat shrink on the negative cables, and the inverter isolator and fuse are also fitted.
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Associate
I quite like crimping if you space it out just a couple of cables a day, find it satisfying for some reason.
Coming along now, you need to get it finished as were gaining 15 minutes of light per week now.
When its finished you'll miss all the challenges you have to overcome making the system.
When' the electrician due?.
Not touched mine in months, it runs all the house out of the cheap rate hours.
Coming along now, you need to get it finished as were gaining 15 minutes of light per week now.
When its finished you'll miss all the challenges you have to overcome making the system.
When' the electrician due?.
Not touched mine in months, it runs all the house out of the cheap rate hours.
That's the million dollar question, I need to give him a ring on Monday - he's always been a bit slow replying to my updates. Its a bit difficult to judge time wise, but I'm really not that far off now. My last parts for the battery should arrive this week, once that's built its ready for the electrician.
Still need to get my dumb smart meters sorted, its been 14 weeks since I reported it to Octopus, I chased them up last week and they said their metering specialist have said it looks like it’s lost connection with Vodafone for the comms hub, so Octopus have raised a ticket, whatever that means.
Associate
Great job - very impressedThe Cerbo GX is alive
It only shows what the SolarEdge system is generating and the ambient temperature in the garage. Currently its running off a 12v power supply.
The inverter weighs 51kg, so its rather heavy to even carry, let alone lift, so it called for some ingenuity, and the assistance of my daughter.
First we carried it out to the garage, then lifted it on to the workmate, then I stood on two pairs of steps and lifted it on top of the battery rack. Then I put a scaffold board across to some ladders, moved it across and then we slowly raised it up on blocks, until it was high enough to get on to the wall bracket.
Then I needed to centralise it on the bracket, but couldn't budge it, so I got my trolley jack out.
And here it is hanging on the wall.
Good productive weekend, although I did find a design flaw, but more on that later.
This is one of the two 70mm negative cables to the inverter, I measured the resistance and both were 0.31 milliohms
Cables run in to the inverter
And where they join to the fuses and isolator. The small wire to the right of the isolator needs a fuse adding, this will go to the precharge circuit.
3D printed a clip on cover for the negative connection.
And a bigger overview picture. The small cable coming out the top left of the Lynx Power in will be for the precharge circuit.
Next up was connection for the MPPT MCB's to the Lynx Power in. This was rather tricky as I had decided to use 35mm cable, I could have used 16mm but didn't have any lugs, so 35mm it was, and it was rather tight, just no room, and very short distances, but it fitted.
I cheated on the negative for the left MCB, it should go behind the positive, but it was just too tight, electrically it makes absolutely no difference.
To save on time and as currently I only have one battery, I've fitted the 70mm cables from the top shelf breaker directly to the Lynx Shunt. When I add the second battery, these cables will simply unbolt and connect to the battery rack busbar.
Here's a 90 degree crimp on 70mm cable.
Positive cable run from the breaker to the T class fuse.
Now this is when I spotted the design flaw, I put the lid on the T class fuse and slid the tray closed, and thought that's a bit of luck it just misses.
But then I realised I still need to connect the negative, and that will not miss!
It's only about 3mm, so I'm going to elongate the mounting holes for the breaker mounting plate, this should allow the breaker to mount about 5mm higher, and then it will clear. Hopefully that works, otherwise I need to alter the brackets, or the riv-nuts in the frame.
This is one of the two 70mm negative cables to the inverter, I measured the resistance and both were 0.31 milliohms
Cables run in to the inverter
And where they join to the fuses and isolator. The small wire to the right of the isolator needs a fuse adding, this will go to the precharge circuit.
3D printed a clip on cover for the negative connection.
And a bigger overview picture. The small cable coming out the top left of the Lynx Power in will be for the precharge circuit.
Next up was connection for the MPPT MCB's to the Lynx Power in. This was rather tricky as I had decided to use 35mm cable, I could have used 16mm but didn't have any lugs, so 35mm it was, and it was rather tight, just no room, and very short distances, but it fitted.
I cheated on the negative for the left MCB, it should go behind the positive, but it was just too tight, electrically it makes absolutely no difference.
To save on time and as currently I only have one battery, I've fitted the 70mm cables from the top shelf breaker directly to the Lynx Shunt. When I add the second battery, these cables will simply unbolt and connect to the battery rack busbar.
Here's a 90 degree crimp on 70mm cable.
Positive cable run from the breaker to the T class fuse.
Now this is when I spotted the design flaw, I put the lid on the T class fuse and slid the tray closed, and thought that's a bit of luck it just misses.
But then I realised I still need to connect the negative, and that will not miss!
It's only about 3mm, so I'm going to elongate the mounting holes for the breaker mounting plate, this should allow the breaker to mount about 5mm higher, and then it will clear. Hopefully that works, otherwise I need to alter the brackets, or the riv-nuts in the frame.
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Elongating the holes wasn't enough, I need get out the welder and alter the brackets.
Spoke to the electrician today, he should be doing a site visit next week, then we can confirm a date.
Spoke to the electrician today, he should be doing a site visit next week, then we can confirm a date.
