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S939 A64 IHS Removal
- Thread starter Jokester
- Start date
well i got it off after the 19000th attempt 
it is a thick beast aint it!
as for modding the cooler, i just inserted 2 coins here :
this made the clamp tighter, so contact with the core is perfect
time to push the cpu to 2.7Ghz and beyond
it is a thick beast aint it!
as for modding the cooler, i just inserted 2 coins here :
this made the clamp tighter, so contact with the core is perfect
time to push the cpu to 2.7Ghz and beyond
sunlitsix said:well i got it off after the 19000th attempt
it is a thick beast aint it!
as for modding the cooler, i just inserted 2 coins here :
this made the clamp tighter, so contact with the core is perfect
time to push the cpu to 2.7Ghz and beyond
Well done. Make sure the coins cant fall out or could short the board or gpu card below it.
Bigstan said:It doesn't take much. All you need to do is file a couple of millimetres off the feet on the bottom of the mount.
Stan
This isnt such a good idea as there are small electrical components around the socket that would then be getting put under pressure
Read this thread last night,
Operated this morning.
Went ok (when i could stop my hands shaking)!
I have an artic cooler freezer pro,
i just popped off the black plastic cap and put a 50p coin under it!
The coin is not as thick as the IHS, about 1-2 mm less, but the pressure felt
ok when i remounted the cooler, though it ws a little fiddly to align.
Temps are down only about 2c and still can't get over 2400, even with 1.525v
Keeps failing on one core!
Might try to refit it tomorrow. Will the temps go down when the paste cures?
Update!
Removed the cooler, took out coin and removed the lip around the plastic
cap with a dremmel so it's flat. Put the old IHS in the coins place.
Also lapped the surface of the cooler (the finish was terible!)
Had to use a bit more pressure to install, Ran the S&M test
Passed 2500 at 1.5v 47c under load! (could'nt do 2450 at 1.55 before)
I will prime it now, then 2.5 at a lower v core, then maybe higher fsb.
Operated this morning.
Went ok (when i could stop my hands shaking)!
I have an artic cooler freezer pro,
i just popped off the black plastic cap and put a 50p coin under it!
The coin is not as thick as the IHS, about 1-2 mm less, but the pressure felt
ok when i remounted the cooler, though it ws a little fiddly to align.
Temps are down only about 2c and still can't get over 2400, even with 1.525v
Keeps failing on one core!
Might try to refit it tomorrow. Will the temps go down when the paste cures?
Update!
Removed the cooler, took out coin and removed the lip around the plastic
cap with a dremmel so it's flat. Put the old IHS in the coins place.
Also lapped the surface of the cooler (the finish was terible!)
Had to use a bit more pressure to install, Ran the S&M test
Passed 2500 at 1.5v 47c under load! (could'nt do 2450 at 1.55 before)
I will prime it now, then 2.5 at a lower v core, then maybe higher fsb.
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Can a Swiftech Apogee Extreme Performance Universal Waterblock (WC-000-SW) be fited after the IHS is removed? mght do this just fro something to do as my crap 3700SD wont do more than 2.65 and i doubt its temps as its WCed and needs 1.55V (max for my mobo) for 2.65.
sunlitsix said:you sir, are a genious! ill try that
result! that worked v. well i replaced the coins with the IHS, now its stable at 2.6Ghz 1.5v idle at 34ºc load at 38ºc
No genius, just time on my hands!
It was your post that made me do the mod, so i thank you.
The mod was a bit risky (could have killed my new cpu + freezer pro)
but my temps are down and my clock is higher.
And the mod has'nt cost me 50p anymore!
My wpcw still needs 1.525v to get to 2.5 though, but only 41c load.
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Two issues, many sockets are higher at the back where the lever is so it will come into contact with block if it is bigger than the chip.
The second is that for blocks that use a standard clip on mount they no longer contact the core with adequate pressure, meaning you will actually get higher temperatures.
Jokester
The second is that for blocks that use a standard clip on mount they no longer contact the core with adequate pressure, meaning you will actually get higher temperatures.
Jokester
Thanks for your speedy answer.
Point 1 - that's OK my H/S base won't hit that.
Point 2 - Is there a mod that can be done to the clip mechanism - like bending it?
I'm keen to do this as my temps are well high (typically CPU 40 Mobo 40 on tick over) but I like a quiet system as I sit next to it day in day out.
Point 1 - that's OK my H/S base won't hit that.
Point 2 - Is there a mod that can be done to the clip mechanism - like bending it?
I'm keen to do this as my temps are well high (typically CPU 40 Mobo 40 on tick over) but I like a quiet system as I sit next to it day in day out.
I've just done this. Cut my hand twice lol. Anyway...
Before
Idle Load
Core 1 - 47C 59C
Core 2 - 35C 46C
After
Idle Load
Core 1 - 42C 50C
Core 2 - 31C 40C
Question is, why am I still getting about a 10C spread between cores??
X2-4400 at 2.64 1.4v and a TT Big Typhoon
Before
Idle Load
Core 1 - 47C 59C
Core 2 - 35C 46C
After
Idle Load
Core 1 - 42C 50C
Core 2 - 31C 40C
Question is, why am I still getting about a 10C spread between cores??
X2-4400 at 2.64 1.4v and a TT Big Typhoon
The BT uses a screw down clamp. First make sure its clamped down evenly on both sides. To be honest though its going to make very little difference and would not explain 10 degrees. You have knocked a lot of your temps from ihs removal. Does the hotter core fail before the cooler core? On mine the hotter core (2 degrees) is the more stabler of the two - could just be dodgy mounting of the heat sensor