Sim racers - what are you running?

Thanks!

The monitor arm had to be adjusted quite a bit when I switched from my 27" to the 34" UW. I did consider hard mounting it and using my 27" for desktop use but it overlaps the desk too much sadly.
at least this configuration provides a level of versatility.
plus working from home over the past two weeks, an UW monitor has been a welcome addition.

I have been racing in VR with a Rift S for the past six months but am now much preferring the comfort of racing on a monitor instead. Despite having a desk fan on me at full chat, it gets very uncomfortable in VR quickly.
For longer races on ACC, it makes more sense to use a monitor as the VR performance is poor in that game anyway and my preference is staying cool rather than feeling like a boil in the bag salmon after 20 minutes of racing.
 
Thanks for the advice guys.

Got myself a TX wheel base, 28GT leather rim, T3PA pedals, and a cheap X-Rocker stand.
Mounted the monitor onto an adjustable arm, and ratchet strapped the chair to the stand.

Looks proper ghetto compared to most, but as a first setup with limited room in the lounge, I'm happy!

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mushtafa said:
Got myself a TX wheel base, 28GT leather rim, T3PA pedals, and a cheap X-Rocker stand.
Mounted the monitor onto an adjustable arm, and ratchet strapped the chair to the stand.

Looks proper ghetto compared to most, but as a first setup with limited room in the lounge, I'm happy!
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That's a great setup to be starting with. Some good choices there. That wheelbase will be a good match with the stand.
Don't worry about comparing your setup to what others have if you're just starting out. I've been taking it seriously for about 2 years now. Most people who have mega setups have been doing it for many years and upgrading bits over time, which is entirely possible if you get the right parts which is what you've done here.
 
Yeah that's pretty solid setup to start off with, hell of a lot better than I started with. Sim racing is quite the old rabbit hole and can get very expensive very quickly, you've done the right thing and bought sensibly to begin with.
I've been sim racing for a long time, since the original Simbin studios GTR game, up until maybe a year ago I made do with a setup not unlike yours.
Just make sure that if and when you do decide to upgrade that you spend money wisely as its easy to waste money in this game and I have fallen foul of it myself over the last year and a bit.
 
@MarkeRDo you know if there is a way to run a SC wireless wheel on a Sim-plicity wheelbase? I'm under the impression with earlier SC based OSW wheels it was simply a case of plugging in the SC wireless module to the control box. I'd hazard a guess its not so simple nowadays? Are there any plug and play wireless receivers that would detect and run a SC wireless compatible wheel?
I'm just looking at my options before I order a wheel on payday. Wireless would be nice to have but by no means essential.
 
I've ordered the SW20 V3, unsure if thats compatible, I know the current models are all in house software he moved away from the SC stuff a while back, unsure on the hardware. and even if the cpntrol board could accept it would the software enable the use of the wireless module?
 
steve45 said:
I've ordered the SW20 V3, unsure if thats compatible, I know the current models are all in house software he moved away from the SC stuff a while back, unsure on the hardware. and even if the cpntrol board could accept it would the software enable the use of the wireless module?
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In that case then no, the new simplicity wheel bases dont use simucube afaik. Why dont you email Ollie at simplicity see what he says. Iam running the older simplicity 20sw v2 with a wired rim and tbh the wire is no problem infact a lot of real race cars have wired button boxes.
 
I emailed him earlier this afternoon.
It was more just out of curiosity than anything, I'm fine with running the wired version, dosnt really bother me, I was just considering all options before I purchase.
 
I've ordered the Cube Controls Formula sport USB in the end, would have went for the augury F1s but literally sold out couple of days before I was prepared to purchase, Gutted!!! Also put the order in for Keyboard tray and mouse pad to round out the rig, just need to order the front mount bracket for the DD wheelbase then I'm complete... that is until I decide I fancy having triple screen:rolleyes: VR is great, but the hassle of having a headset on all the time does get annoying when you just want a quick few hot laps.
 
Where's a good place to start on building Racing Rigs? Other then the computer, I'm starting from scratch and for years I've always said I wanted a weekend car... whilst this may never replace that true feeling, I also have to be abit more sensible and I think this may be it. Budget wise, I don't want to go absolutely insane but am prepared to part with a decent amount for a wheel, pedal set.. shifter would be nice.

Actual Rigs, I've seen a few but don't know how much is wise to spend on them.
 
Depends on how deep the pockets are mate, sim racing can be done as cheap or as expensive as you want. Just be prepared that things can get very expensive very quickly.

Rig - I'd suggest just investing in 80/20 Alu extrusion rig, they are just so stiff and modular, start off your build with a strong foundation. You can get a decent setup for around £400, something along the lines of Simlabs GT1 Evo or Trak Racer TR80 (comes with adjustable runners and sidemount brackets for seat). With both you will still require a seat, you can either get bucket seat which can be had cheap enough (I got a barely used OMP TRS-E for £100) or just pop to the local breakers when the current situation blows over and grab a cheap car seat with its runners.

Wheel, I'd look at the Thrustmaster t300rs as an absolute minimum, belt driven and interchangeable wheels, TS-PC is even better if you can find a good deal. I dont have much experience with fanatec but they are highly regarded, but come with a hefty premium to boot. Direct drive wheels are a lot of money and require a decent rig to handle the forces, also a steering wheel will more often than not need to be purchased separately and can at times be just as expensive as the wheel base itself, if not more. However if you are interest in direct drive, have a look into Sim-Plicity, Very very competitively prices wheelbases, I've recently paid ~£620 for the SW20 V3, long wait but at that price its a ridiculous deal! but as I say you also have to factor in the price of a rim.

Pedals - in my opinion the most important part of the build, if you are going to splash out cash this is where I'd be directing it at first. Three pedals are not a necessity but helpful, however Load cell IMO is. Loadcell really is a game changer, Lower end offerings are Thrustmasters T-LCM or Fanatec CSL Elite LC, if you have more money to spend though you have Fanatec Clubsport V3, or even better Heusinkveld Sprints/Ultimates.

Shifter - I havnt got much experience with H patterns other than the standard Logitech one, which wasn't that great. I dont tend to drive many cars that could make much use of an H-Pattern.
Sequentials though are great, I'm running a TM TSS Sparco Mod Sequential/Handbrake, Majority of the time it lives in Handbrake mode though as I tend to paddleshift as I race GT or rally cars most of the time.


Other things to think about.
  • How are you viewing? VR, Single or Triple screen? VR cannot be beaten for immersion, but it can be a hassle using the headset every time you want to race, I also find it quite warm and and restricting in summer months and in long races. Single screen you'll want something with reasonable FOV, ultrawide or something. Triple screening will be mighty pricey but will give you the immersion without cooking with a VR headset.
  • What racing platform you planning on using? AC/ACC, PCars2, AMS/AMS2, iRacing, Raceroom Experience, Dirt Rally 2.0??? Most of those title can be had for relatively cheaply with all DLC packs through sales or CD key sites and such. However iracing and to a lesser extent raceroom can be ludicrously expensive. IRacing for example requires a monthly Sub plus you need to pay 11-15 quite per track/car, and the base content for both isnt exactly overwhelming.
    AC/ACC have the best FFB and physics in my opinion however are more of a hassle to find a good clean competitive race online, which is where iRacing is a better choice.
  • Button boxes, something to look into as some of the sims have a lot more functions than can be configured to the buttons on your wheel. Button boxes can be really helpful, something with a few push buttons, and a few encoder dials should cover most eventualities
 
managed to get a deal on a Buttkicker Gamer 2 on race department so I have took the plunge.

In time for its arrival, I have used the spark plug socket trick to get a mounting point in place before it arrives so I can spend less time faffing around trying to get it secure.

Anybody else using haptics who can advise on the best way to set it up and what software I need to be using?

manly race with a USB wireless headset so wondering if I can have my audio jack working on the buttkicker too?

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Hi All. Looking at getting a wheel to pass time during this lock down and I can't see any real life racing happening anytime soon.
I doubt I'll have much time once back to normal so not looking to spend a lot. Been thinking about a T300 so I can use it on my PS4 and PC (once I get it brought here and find some space in my house).
Never tried one so hoping for help. Hence sorry for random questions.

Is the resistance from the wheel fairly smooth and weighty? i.e. I can feel weight to the steering? How heavy would you describe it, electric steering in a city run around or near hydraulic in something sporty?
I've read that the cheaper pedals don't offer much resistance? Figured I could use some form of elastomer/spring to offer resistance on. Is it worth getting the t3pa set still if I'm going to mod it. Not really bothered on the clutch pedal. Just want to modulate my braking by feel.
the price difference between the GTE set (2 pedals) and Ferrari GT version is quite significant.

TIA
 
I started off, this time at least, with a Thrustmaster TM Leather which comes with the T3PA pedals. Was pretty good but the pedals failed so sent that back to amazon. The pedals were the weakest link as I'd had the original Clubsport pedals with the GT2 wheel and the load cell pedals were really good, even then. Went a bit nuts with the replacements though, hit ebay and got a CSW 2.5, Formula V2 with the Podium Paddle uplift and the CLubsport pedals with LC brake. Love the combo, even running on a wheel stand. Love ACC the 911 round Bathurst is amazing fun.
 
T300 is a good starting point, and is the wheel I'd always recommend to people starting out on a budget.
Wheelbase provides "sufficient" FFB strength, Its by no means strong at ~3.9 Nm according to most online sources, however it is enough to have a feel for what the car is doing under you. Being belt driven it is much smoother than the geared Logitech offerings, and allows for a lot more finesse in you driving.
You also have the benefit of being able to change wheel rims should the desire ever arise.

The pedals do let it down massively and would definitely suggest getting the best pedal set you can afford, if you can push to the T3PA or T3PA Pro. The 2 pedal setup is weak in both spring strength and construction, not worth the plastic its built out of, bin material straight outta the box! If you want proper pedal feel you need to start looking at loadcell pedal sets, be that TM's T-LCM or Fanatec Elite LC / V3's. Just be aware if you are going to be getting a loadcell setup you do need to have the pedal set firmly secured or in some kind of position where it is not going to move under operation.
 
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