Sim racers - what are you running?

Sensing that this was my final day off, and the only one where I've had the time to sit down and do some driving, my windows install has decided to mangle my G29.
It thinks the clutch pedal is throttle, and there is a new labelled pedal axis-3 for throttle. I could get it working like this on Assetto Corsa but prefer to fix. Dirt rally unplayable now.

Plugged into PS4 and it works fine. Installed Dirt rally on my laptop and tried there, and it's fine.

Really don't want to do a windows reinstall for this, but removing drivers, devices, reinstalling logi software etc, has done nothing.
Anyone had this with Logitech's dire pedals before? No new devices or software on PC since it was last working. Seems such a strange issue. G Hub and some other software show everything as fine, it's just all my games that seem broken.
 
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After having spent a little while with the Dayton puck on the brake, I have to say that it's an awesome upgrade and am very much looking forward to putting one on the throttle when it turns up.
All the other stuff like rumble/vibration/impacts/gears on the shakers are great fun and provide lovely immersion, but for valuable (and entertaining) feedback that can actually improve your driving, front/rear wheel slip vibes on the bum and the pedals are fantastic and I highly recommend it.

You just get more of a nuanced feel as to what your car is actually doing and can then modulate things a little better. DD by itself can only provide so much.
 
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SDK^ said:
Love this setup !
I'm planning to replicate a similar setup later this year, when I convert our garage into a gaming/sim racing room.

I know it's early days but how are you finding the Trak Racer setup? The rig appears to be solid, but a lot of reviews complain about the chair mounting system/connection being a weak point, having some flex.
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I wasn't too impressed initially tbh. I ordered a TR160 but they sent me a TR80 (Lesser rig). They were also impossible to get a hold of when the thing didn't turn up (Ended up showing up out of the blue 2 weeks late). If buying a Trak racer rig DO NOT buy from Trak Racer. The instructions for building the rig were also bloody shocking. Fortunately I'm a fairly technical person do did manage. The only slight point of flex for me is in the DD wheel base mount. With the 4 bolts as tight as I'm willing to go, I can hear a small amount of movement. I think I need to get new T-nuts from Fanatec to solve this.
 
I hear so many bad reviews of Trak Racer's service. Parts missing, wrong thing being delivered, crap CS etc... Shame, as they do have some nice stuff.
Surprised about the DD mount, as that looks good and seems like it should be solid.
 
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Emlyn_Dewar said:
Sensing that this was my final day off, and the only one where I've had the time to sit down and do some driving, my windows install has decided to mangle my G29.
It thinks the clutch pedal is throttle, and there is a new labelled pedal axis-3 for throttle. I could get it working like this on Assetto Corsa but prefer to fix. Dirt rally unplayable now.

Plugged into PS4 and it works fine. Installed Dirt rally on my laptop and tried there, and it's fine.

Really don't want to do a windows reinstall for this, but removing drivers, devices, reinstalling logi software etc, has done nothing.
Anyone had this with Logitech's dire pedals before? No new devices or software on PC since it was last working. Seems such a strange issue. G Hub and some other software show everything as fine, it's just all my games that seem broken.
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https://forums.codemasters.com/topi...us-problems-with-logitech-g29g920g923-wheels/ dont know if that'll help
 
It is helpful! I found a very similar post on a logitech forum topic late last night that suggested the same thing. It showed all the controllers I'd ever connected to the PC in that registry key, but also had an entry for a Logitech G920 which I do not own. Removed all Logi software again, binned all the Logitech wheel entries in there, removed the disconnected device manager device, and started from scratch. Pedals working as they should afterwards, even a little bit better than before as I'd opened them up and cleaned earlier in the day, whilst checking it wasn't a damaged cable. :D
Still didn't get to do any proper racing, but at least it'll work for next time.
 
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Uncle Petey said:
So I ended up adding another shaker to the back of the seat and I'm an even happier chap now.
It really has rounded out the setup after a bit of dialling in. Nothing's overwhelming anything and everything is clear with what it is.
The immersion and enjoyment of just driving is light years ahead of what it was without any of this. I even think that the added information may even be helping me get a little quicker - notably the front/rear wheel slip feedback.
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As I'm pedalless now....I can focus on fiddling. Ha.

So at the moment I have 2 shakers with this amp (https://www.amazon.co.uk/Nobsound-Bluetooth-Amplifier-Wireless-Receiver-black/dp/B0725PJQQV). It's running the stock PSU that delivers 60w. I've no idea if that means it will do 1x50 or if both channels are 30w max. You can buy a different PSU that delivers 100w though so both channels get 50w. Unsure if I should do that.

Current plan is to tape my existing shakers to the base of my seat and underneath my pedal plate (it is 10mm btw), with potential rubber mounts on the seat and deck to isolate?. Then use pucs on the pedals based on your glowing recomendations. :)

So, my question. Are you powering all of yours from a single amp / soundcard? I'm not sure if I should just buy more nob sound amps or if there's a neater solution that could power 4/5/6 x 50w per channel? Asuming the pucs are less that 50w max, I wouldn't want to blow them unintentionally so limiting the power sent to those would probably be beneficial.

Sorry and thank you. :)
 
I would imagine that you'd want the upgraded PSU for the shakers, given that they're rated for 50w continuous / 100w max, although I don't know how high you personally need to run them for good vibes without stressing the amp with the stock PSU. The one attached to the plate will need to be run higher than the one on the seat, that's for sure.

The pucks ought to be ok with the stock PSU, as they're dinky and will be run at fairly low levels.

I run all of mine from a 7 channel AV receiver via HDMI. In your situation I'd say to grab another Nobsound amp and a beefier PSU, unless you have a spare AV amp lying around.
 
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Uncle Petey said:
I would imagine that you'd want the upgraded PSU for the shakers, given that they're rated for 50w continuous / 100w max, although I don't know how high you personally need to run them for good vibes without stressing the amp with the stock PSU. The one attached to the plate will need to be run higher than the one on the seat, that's for sure.

The pucks ought to be ok with the stock PSU, as they're dinky and will be run at fairly low levels.

I run all of mine from a 7 channel AV receiver via HDMI. In your situation I'd say to grab another Nobsound amp and a beefier PSU, unless you have a spare AV amp lying around.
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I've got an old Denon 7.1 (i think) AV amp. However i'm not sure I can justify having that powered at the same time as my > 600w rig. Ha. 1 shaker attached to the seat. Photos to follow when imgbb.com is back online. I've tested and it's great. It's right under my ring so it's giving feedback to all the right places. :)
 
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Good stuff :)
Yeah, not really necessary to use the AV amp if you're only going to be using 4 channels and already have something running 2. I only used mine because I had it spare and it saved me from buying additional amps.
 
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