Sky Fibre Optic

With Fibre the estimates are mch tighter so you should really be getting those speeds. Are you sure the setup in the house is good? All sockets filters etc?
 
With Fibre the estimates are mch tighter so you should really be getting those speeds. Are you sure the setup in the house is good? All sockets filters etc?

yup all filtered with the ones supplied with new router, just restarted it and got these now :

Connection Speed 23989 kbps 6686 kbps
Line Attenuation 25.4 dB 0.0 dB
Noise Margin 3.4 dB 4.4 dB

edit: sky check is telling me microfilters are not set up correctly, except there is only one socket with a microfilter plugged into it.
 
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Thanks.
Will look into that.

I'm looking at this Asus RT-N53 for £30 - would that suffice and provide my wireless devices with my actual speed? (Distance dependant of course, but right ontop I'd want to see very close to wired).

Infact, is there anything cheaper that would suffice? :o :D

Not really interested in much else router wise, except from getting the speed my wired gets (or as close to!).

Thanks all, hopefully you don't see it as too much of a derail as I'm sure it'll help others!

Hi, your router most support > MAC encapsulated routing (RFC 1483 MER) for Sky Fibre if it does not it will not work.

Check before you buy.
 
/rant
Sky well BT Openreach are driving me insane!

My fibre stops working last Sunday (Been fine at property for 6 months), Openreach engy comes Tuesday, Replaces loads of cables/box, He was here hours in & out. End result - Couldn't fix it!

I'm told by Sky on Tuesday a 'team' of Openreach engys will be here Thurs between 1-6PM (I take time off work, Again) they don't even bloody show up! Not a phone call, Nothing.

So I phone Sky today to have a rant and well they're useless saying it's being investigated we'll call you back, That was 4 hours ago, No call.

/rant
 
SR102 wifi sucks :(

After the wife complained the Sky wifi wasn't great I put it down to just being the stuff she was trying to access as it was OK for me, till this w/e. I went to play some stuff back on the PJ for the kids, it worked fine to begin with then suffered random drops/buffering less than 5m from the hub with a clear line of sight. I switched to a wired connection and it was fine again from the same source, back to wifi = buffering. I've had to resort to plugging in my (ancient) DDWRT based router in AP mode wich despite being 54g based has been rock solid ever since. I'll leave it till next weekend to confirm but I can see the SR102's days being numbered.

My question is am I better off firing up wireshark and grabbing the u/p and putting a custom firmware on the old Huawei modem and then going with a cable router (probably Asus with WRT etc.) or buying an all in one router/VDSL option? My gut reaction is the Huawei as if anything goes wrong it's easier/cheaper to replace.
 
Dont think you need to change the firmware on the modem, just make sure that the router you get will do that mac encapsulated routing. I think like N66U's and ones like that are fine with merlin firmware.
 
My sky fibre connection keeps dropping out for 1-2 minutes every so often, sometimes I can still connect to the router othertimes I can't, the connection is shown as active through the no internet access periods, this happens over all connection types direct powerline and wireless.

The last time this was happening a BT engineer came out and informed me that the cabinet was overcrowded so anytime someone goes in there our connection could be dislodged.

Wireshark shows no http traffic during an outtage but there is arp and something else. I'm at work so don't have the full details has anyone experienced this before?
 
SR102 wifi sucks :(

After the wife complained the Sky wifi wasn't great I put it down to just being the stuff she was trying to access as it was OK for me, till this w/e. I went to play some stuff back on the PJ for the kids, it worked fine to begin with then suffered random drops/buffering less than 5m from the hub with a clear line of sight. I switched to a wired connection and it was fine again from the same source, back to wifi = buffering. I've had to resort to plugging in my (ancient) DDWRT based router in AP mode wich despite being 54g based has been rock solid ever since. I'll leave it till next weekend to confirm but I can see the SR102's days being numbered.

My question is am I better off firing up wireshark and grabbing the u/p and putting a custom firmware on the old Huawei modem and then going with a cable router (probably Asus with WRT etc.) or buying an all in one router/VDSL option? My gut reaction is the Huawei as if anything goes wrong it's easier/cheaper to replace.

Had the same issues here with the SR102. If I were to do it again (I went for an all in one VDSL modem/router, Billion 8800NL) I'd probably go modem (Openreach) and a top range router as you can restart the router and not drop sync as well as getting a better router.
 
Had the same issues here with the SR102. If I were to do it again (I went for an all in one VDSL modem/router, Billion 8800NL) I'd probably go modem (Openreach) and a top range router as you can restart the router and not drop sync as well as getting a better router.

Thanks for the post :) That's about where i'd got to logically as it's a proven/stable modem and in the event of future upgrade its cheaper to change a non modem/cable router and the selection tends to be better along with firmware updates/hard reboots not loosing sync.
 
plugged into the test socket i'm now getting :

Broadband Link Downstream Upstream
Connection Speed 39976 kbps 7217 kbps
Line Attenuation 27.8 dB 0.0 dB
Noise Margin 6.3 dB 4.4 dB

which is more like it, looks like the cable going into the back of the faceplate is causing my speed to halve. What cable would i need to relocate the router ?
 
OK, the bottom section, what I would call the faceplate is what any other sockets in the house are normally wired to. This is so you can isolate them from the line by removing the faceplate. The now exposed 'test' socket becomes the only active socket in the property and is also the point at which responsibility for the line changes from Openreach/Sky to you. If there is wiring connected to the removable bottom section this normally indicates other sockets in the house.

Does your socket look like this?

 
OK, the bottom section, what I would call the faceplate is what any other sockets in the house are normally wired to. This is so you can isolate them from the line by removing the faceplate. The now exposed 'test' socket becomes the only active socket in the property and is also the point at which responsibility for the line changes from Openreach/Sky to you. If there is wiring connected to the removable bottom section this normally indicates other sockets in the house.

Does your socket look like this?


yes it does, and to add none of the other sockets in the house give a dial tone.

edit: does swapping to sky fibre stop me using https://www.dslchecker.bt.com/ out of interest?
 
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If you mean they don't give dial tone with the faceplate off then that's normal as they're connected to the faceplate which has been disconnected. If you don't get a dial tone with the faceplate connected then I would suggest you have either faulty wiring in some way or a faulty telephone socket and this is reducing your speed.
 
If you mean they don't give dial tone with the faceplate off then that's normal as they're connected to the faceplate which has been disconnected. If you don't get a dial tone with the faceplate connected then I would suggest you have either faulty wiring in some way or a faulty telephone socket and this is reducing your speed.


With the faceplate on I get no dial tone in the other 4 ports around the house ( so I guess the wiring Into the back of the faceplate doesn't work) plugged into the faceplate the Internet is 38mb no problem, is there any problem with just removing the wires from the faceplate and taping them to the wall and using it like that for now? Cheers
 
If you are happy to just use the master (and it sounds like that's what you've been doing) then disconnect the wiring from the faceplate, put the faceplate back on and connect the filter to the front of the socket. It sounds like you have an internal wiring fault or one of the sockets is faulty.
 
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