Yes I understand that risk, its been like that since 2014 when the inverter was installed. I can fit rcbo's to remove the risk and I may well do that, thanks.
Mine said RCBO's are £25 each, looking on CEF 12 way Hager board is £180, sparky for the day is about £240, so about £700 give or take a bit.
Hager RCBOs are £20/25ea, enclosure £100ish plus time for fitting, testing and issuing an EICR. Price seems just about OK.
Just had mine replaced and it cost me £760, so £700 seems a fair price. My consumer unit was ~35yrs old, plastic and things were doubled up so needed doing.
Ok so re the fault, its not because of the mismatched MCB since it is not at the busbar end. It is due to the poor termination of the ring main. When cores are twisted they end up only making contact with the copper in the MCB at a few points, whereas if inserted side by side they will make contact along the full length. The ends should be untwisted, cut, stripped and re-inserted into the MCB assuming that the MCB is undamaged but it looks OK.
Ok so re the fault, its not because of the mismatched MCB since it is not at the busbar end. It is due to the poor termination of the ring main. When cores are twisted they end up only making contact with the copper in the MCB at a few points, whereas if inserted side by side they will make contact along the full length. The ends should be untwisted, cut, stripped and re-inserted into the MCB assuming that the MCB is undamaged but it looks OK.
That's clearly a heavily loaded circuit, what is on it? What is on the spur (the third cable)? Could the spur be put on its own or another MCB to reduce total load on that circuit (good design)?
The board itself is fine but old, 15amp MCBs went a long time ago (anyone know the year?) A new RCBO board with SPDs (if required) would be a good investment. A split load board also OK and cheaper but you know the pros/cons. Stick with a good brand like Hager- you could source yourself and just pay labour to save a fair bit subject to how your sparky feels about that. Very easy job looking at the photos, load of room to work and plenty of slack on cables by taking the trunking back a bit. Just so long as testing doesn't throw up anything in the house. 2-3 hours including tea break.
Ps I enjoyed the album title
Ok so re the fault, its not because of the mismatched MCB since it is not at the busbar end. It is due to the poor termination of the ring main. When cores are twisted they end up only making contact with the copper in the MCB at a few points, whereas if inserted side by side they will make contact along the full length. The ends should be untwisted, cut, stripped and re-inserted into the MCB assuming that the MCB is undamaged but it looks OK.
That's clearly a heavily loaded circuit, what is on it? What is on the spur (the third cable)? Could the spur be put on its own or another MCB to reduce total load on that circuit (good design)?
The board itself is fine but old, 15amp MCBs went a long time ago (anyone know the year?) A new RCBO board with SPDs (if required) would be a good investment. A split load board also OK and cheaper but you know the pros/cons. Stick with a good brand like Hager- you could source yourself and just pay labour to save a fair bit subject to how your sparky feels about that. Very easy job looking at the photos, load of room to work and plenty of slack on cables by taking the trunking back a bit. Just so long as testing doesn't throw up anything in the house. 2-3 hours including tea break.
Ps I enjoyed the album title
