Solar panels and battery - any real world reccomendations?

Looking at getting a zappi installed with my solar and batteries, taking advantage of no VAT. Planning on using Octopus Go. How do you guys prevent the zappi from using the battery between 0030 and 0430 but then use excess solar in the day? Looks confusing.
 
Looking at getting a zappi installed with my solar and batteries, taking advantage of no VAT. Planning on using Octopus Go. How do you guys prevent the zappi from using the battery between 0030 and 0430 but then use excess solar in the day? Looks confusing.

Battery can't charge and discharge at once, so if it spends a lot of the time charging it would be prevented from using the battery.
 
Looking at getting a zappi installed with my solar and batteries, taking advantage of no VAT. Planning on using Octopus Go. How do you guys prevent the zappi from using the battery between 0030 and 0430 but then use excess solar in the day? Looks confusing.
You just configure it to not discharge the battery in those hours, it is that simple really. If you are on Go, you'll be charging the battery in that period from the grid all winter and most of the spring and autumn.

You are far better off charging the battery from the grid than not most of the time if you are on Go. If you charge it when you didn't need to, it costs you 2.5p/kwh (7.5p import vs 5p export) and if you don't charge and it runs flat, you are paying 40p/kwh import.

EDIT: If I was on flux, I'd be charging the battery to full in the cheap period every day, 365 days a year.
 
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I am thinking about getting the charger that comes with octopus . I would rather get a zappi but I want one which works with IO (and I doubt I will buy a supported car) is it possible to charge the car off the grid using IO without tanking the battery and still running the house off the battery or would I just switch the entire operation to run off the grid if charging the car?
 
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You'll need to tell the battery not to discharge during the IO periods, so yes its a PITA unless you are using something like home assistant that can automate everything for you. You only need to charge using IO once a month to stay on the tariff and the 6 hours at 7.5p will cover almost all of the charging anyway so I'd be using that by default.

EDIT: it is possible to set up your circuits and CT clamps so the solar doesn't 'see' the char charger at all so any time it is charging it will not discharge the battery but that comes at the cost of data and most people are not bothered about that.
 
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You just configure it to not discharge the battery in those hours, it is that simple really. If you are on Go, you'll be charging the battery in that period from the grid all winter and most of the spring and autumn.

You are far better off charging the battery from the grid than not most of the time if you are on Go. If you charge it when you didn't need to, it costs you 2.5p/kwh (7.5p import vs 5p export) and if you don't charge and it runs flat, you are paying 40p/kwh import.

EDIT: If I was on flux, I'd be charging the battery to full in the cheap period every day, 365 days a year.
Fantastic, thank you for the thorough reply
 
Looking at getting a zappi installed with my solar and batteries, taking advantage of no VAT. Planning on using Octopus Go. How do you guys prevent the zappi from using the battery between 0030 and 0430 but then use excess solar in the day? Looks confusing.
Limit the discharge from the battery between those hours.
 
Looking at getting a zappi installed with my solar and batteries, taking advantage of no VAT. Planning on using Octopus Go. How do you guys prevent the zappi from using the battery between 0030 and 0430 but then use excess solar in the day? Looks confusing.
you can install a zappi, or if you have an immersion in your tank anyway, then you can get a smart switch that works over wifi or zigbee and use something like homeassistant to set it to charge when you want or if there is excess.
 
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Fellow OCUK hivemind solar peeps I need your help. Some may remember I had issues with my batteries from the start. I have got to the point I really need to escalate the issue with my installers.
I have tried to write an almost letter before action (I am happy to go letter before action but feel this may be enough in itself); in the hope to get them to actually put the time in I suspect they need to in order to fix this. Other than the couple of screen clips does the below make sense ?
Particularly the maths side, I am not that convinced the guys I am dealing with are that good and may struggle to prove/disprove a working system.
I recognise that many people would probably never look at these numbers and just assume its working fine!

I have had to list it all out again as they have a habit of passing it to a junior person who will not have history and end up wasting my time.
I am trying to keep it brief but descriptive enough as to demonstrate the issues, a tricky balance.

Particularly interested in anyones comments in regards the last section (expectations and resolutions) @kindai would really appreciate your input as well since you have always given good advice in these sorts of scenario.

"Hi Guys,

Unfortunately I think its time now that we must discuss how we can fix this ongoing battery issue once and for all.

Below summary of events, responses given and remedies tried :

1) Pre install I queried the batteries being outside and if that would affect the performance, was confirmed by Gary that his were outside and North facing and no issues.

2) Post install around Nov 30th I queried as to why the system yield for the day was low at around 10kwh, with a small amount of generation included. At that point I had assumed the issue was the conversion loss was very high and that the correct amount of charge had been used in order to fully charge the batteries
I did not comprehend until later it was simply not drawing enough current for long enough in order to be able to actually charge with enough energy to match the declared useable from the specs.*1
At this point Gary logged something with Solax (which they never responded to as far as I know) and I was told it was a system firmware issue.
This was updated by Solax the next day, the BMS and batteries from that point having the same firmware version.

3) I noticed not long afterwards that the same issue was repeating, too little current was being drawn to be able to ever store enough energy to match the useable. This time on query I was told it was due to temperatures and some performance impact due to cold temperatures was normal.*2
This got to the point it was so bad they completely refused to charge at all for a couple of days.
After that I built an insulated cover for the batteries which I had planned to do later anyway to keep them out of direct sunlight. This resulted in the batteries slowly gaining temperature to around 20c.

4) I again queried the fact nothing seemed to have changed in early March to be told in a very confusing email I needed to switch everything off at the CU, (you cannot do this since the matebox means there is no direct connection to the CU for the system only), and that I needed newer firmware again.
I left this until early April since I was on holiday and busy. When I chased I was told in fact I did not need firmware and I could simply tell the system to power off. I have done this again today 24/04 and now the batteries do not display temperature.
I was also given a load of calculations by Christian which do not make sense and worry me he doesn't understand the systems he is supporting (turn off at the CU and the battery should discharge to 0%)


Evidence of system not fuctioning correctly:
Yesterday night (23 April 2023) the batteries went to 10% SOC again. This morning they charged for 1hr 35minutes at around 5.5kw and then another 15 minutes at a declining rate.
At 2:05am after 1hr 35 minutes they said 77%. Having used around 8.71kWh. This having added 67% battery and based on 13.3kwh would be almost the curve you would expect. Needing around 11kWh from 10% SOC to full.
However after this for the remaining 15 minutes of charge the current reduced significantly and the battery went from 77% to 100%.
This would be 3kWh if the system was pulling enough current in 15 minutes or put another way would require a charge rate of 12kWh. Reality was probably around 1.5-2 on average.
See graph below to support above analysis.



Other comments :

This has been really hard work to get taken seriously. I feel like I am being fobbed off with three people having sent responses, on the hope I will go away and stop expecting the battery system to perform as quoted.
The last response last week when I replied to Christian that his calculations were incorrect has not been replied to.

One thing that has sprung to mind is that there was an issue on install day late on when John (I think that was the Electricians name) had to take some of the covers off just as it was getting dark. Something wasnt quite right
but I am not sure what. He unscrewed a couple of the batteries panels from memory but I was not paying that close attention.

I don't feel like I should be required to fault find. Something is up with this battery system and clearly has been ever since it was installed.
A system that the manufacturer claims should be useable down to -30c (see clip below from their brochure) should not be performing this badly in the temperatures we have been having. Again see *2 below. I don't believe it has been, or was ever, setup to operate in low temperature mode.
I do not seem to be able to access the area I was sent a screen shot of so I believe its in the installer menu not the user menu. Maybe someone could confirm, and what setting it is set to use in my case.


Expectations & resolution :

I started down this path before but now I believe it is time that I hand this back to you guys, I need a plan for resolution.
How do you and within what timescale plan to resolve this before I am forced to look at engaging another company to come and fix it. Before recovering costs from yourselves, voluntarily or via the courts.

What I expect is a clear plan. I am happy to undertake some actions as required but the plan needs to be complete not just for the next stage, but a complete list of all actions / activities and right up to a system replacement of parts / whole as required in order to deliver the performance and
specifications quoted not just by yourselves but the manufacturers brochures.
Again I would reiterate that from the raw numbers that can be extrapolated it appears from charge rate * time and discharge "yield" that to me there is a high chance one of the battery modules is faulty and not charging. The performance seems to track very closely to a 3 battery system of 10kWh capacity with 9kWh useable.
Is there a way to specifically test the batteries somehow?

Many thanks in advance, I look forwards to hearing from you in due course.
xxxxxxxx

*1 manufacturer specs listed as 12.3kwh nominal with 10% minimum SOC giving 11kwh usable. (Sometimes they quote 11kWh sometimes 11.1kWh it seems)
*2 This despite the manufacturer claiming they are tested to super cold temperatures. It seems the fact that the batteries need to have the heating switched on and is only seemingly in the app for installers was not mentioned. I am still waiting for a reply from Christian to confirm this, but it looks like it
Since the screen shot he sent me from the app looks like sits within the installer only options, such as limiting export."
 
I can't help you but our of curiosity .. what is the state of health of the battery. it should be in your control software somewhere

after almost 2 years mine are at 95% with no noticeable drop in output.

attached are my details... SOC is charge, SOH is health at the bottom

 
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@Mercenary Keyboard Warrior

It sounds to me like you may have a cell that's running away. Some BMS's (Battery Management System) are just plain weird in the way that they work. On my Victron system the shunt counts the amps in and out, it's the only way to do it reliably, but thats only if you use a shunt, but even this will go out over time, so you can set a voltage, a tail current and a duration, once all three are met the SOC resets to 100%. But if you connect batteries via Canbus then it relies upon the BMS to report the state of charge to the system, I highly suspect this is how yours will work.

Now a battery is made of individual cells, typically 16 cells, these cells can typically be between 2.5v and 3.65v, and they should never go under 2.5 or over 3.65. The BMS monitors the individual cell voltages, these may not charge evenly, and one cell could run away with its voltage rising quicker than the others, this normally happens near the maximum voltage, a good BMS will have balancing built in, but they only really work when the charge current is low, now if one cell reaches 3.65v (or the upper limit set in the BMS), the BMS will likely decide that the battery is full, and I think that is what's happening in yours. This may help you get an understanding. So you have a lot of cells that are not full, and one is, hence you don't store or get back the expected energy.

To prove this you need to find a way to see the individual cell voltages in each battery.

This is what mine look like, note the cell voltage difference is 0.006v, that's the maximum deviation between the lowest voltage and the highest, you need to see these voltages as the pack is charging, the higher the voltage the more likely they are to deviate, you would also need to know what voltages your cells are supposed to run at, but they should all be tight together.

Cell-Voltages.jpg
 
@kindai would really appreciate your input as well since you have always given good advice in these sorts of scenario.

Seems clear enough on whats happening and what you are expecting though a little on the soft side.



Unfortunately I think its time now that we must discuss how we can fix this ongoing battery issue once and for all.

"Unfortunately the issues I have bought to your attention previously are still ongoing despite previous troubleshooting. Accordingly please find a summary below:



How do you and within what timescale plan to resolve this before I am forced to look at engaging another company to come and fix it.

Change it to be more affirmative

eg:

What I need from you is within the next 14 days a plan of action on how this will be resolved etc etc...



How do you and within what timescale plan to resolve this before I am forced to look at engaging another company to come and fix it. Before recovering costs from yourselves, voluntarily or via the courts.

I would change the parts about another company or recovering costs at this point and suggest instead that

"If the battery is still failing to perform as expected, or major strides have not been made to resolve the issue by date xyz, I will look to return it at your cost and expense and look for an alternative solution or provider that does perform as advertised"
 
I can't help you but our of curiosity .. what is the state of health of the battery. it should be in your control software somewhere

after almost 2 years mine are at 95% with no noticeable drop in output.

attached are my details... SOC is charge, SOH is health at the bottom


Nothing I have found so far along those lines. To be honest I would not select Solax now as a manufacturer. I think their web/app stuff is really poor.

@Mercenary Keyboard Warrior

It sounds to me like you may have a cell that's running away. Some BMS's (Battery Management System) are just plain weird in the way that they work. On my Victron system the shunt counts the amps in and out, it's the only way to do it reliably, but thats only if you use a shunt, but even this will go out over time, so you can set a voltage, a tail current and a duration, once all three are met the SOC resets to 100%. But if you connect batteries via Canbus then it relies upon the BMS to report the state of charge to the system, I highly suspect this is how yours will work.

Now a battery is made of individual cells, typically 16 cells, these cells can typically be between 2.5v and 3.65v, and they should never go under 2.5 or over 3.65. The BMS monitors the individual cell voltages, these may not charge evenly, and one cell could run away with its voltage rising quicker than the others, this normally happens near the maximum voltage, a good BMS will have balancing built in, but they only really work when the charge current is low, now if one cell reaches 3.65v (or the upper limit set in the BMS), the BMS will likely decide that the battery is full, and I think that is what's happening in yours. This may help you get an understanding. So you have a lot of cells that are not full, and one is, hence you don't store or get back the expected energy.

To prove this you need to find a way to see the individual cell voltages in each battery.

This is what mine look like, note the cell voltage difference is 0.006v, that's the maximum deviation between the lowest voltage and the highest, you need to see these voltages as the pack is charging, the higher the voltage the more likely they are to deviate, you would also need to know what voltages your cells are supposed to run at, but they should all be tight together.

Cell-Voltages.jpg
Nothing remotely like that available, but thanks for the technical side, that certainly sounds plausible.
One of my concerns (not listed) is that when close to 10% and I assume as the battery is not working correctly it can discharge as low as 5%. This I know is not good for them over time and I guess could make it worse in future.
 
Nothing remotely like that available, but thanks for the technical side, that certainly sounds plausible.
One of my concerns (not listed) is that when close to 10% and I assume as the battery is not working correctly it can discharge as low as 5%. This I know is not good for them over time and I guess could make it worse in future.

It won't be in any app, but you may be able to read it via a communication port on the battery, worth doing a bit of googling etc, it may be your only way to prove a faulty cell.

Actually just had a thought, if you have more than one battery, can you run with one disconnected, and see how it performs, then reconnect and disconnect another, and so on, it may help confirm which battery is faulty?

Generally you need to avoid the very low and very high cell voltages, as this stresses the cells, but it depends entirely on what they've set in the BMS and is a bit out of your control, but the lower voltages can be avoided by setting a higher minimum SOC.
 
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Seems clear enough on whats happening and what you are expecting though a little on the soft side.





"Unfortunately the issues I have bought to your attention previously are still ongoing despite previous troubleshooting. Accordingly please find a summary below:





Change it to be more affirmative

eg:

What I need from you is within the next 14 days a plan of action on how this will be resolved etc etc...





I would change the parts about another company or recovering costs at this point and suggest instead that

"If the battery is still failing to perform as expected, or major strides have not been made to resolve the issue by date xyz, I will look to return it at your cost and expense and look for an alternative solution or provider that does perform as advertised"

Thanks mate really appreciated. :D

Yeah I am probably being too soft here. I think I am going to sharpen it up a bit plus get it into better English as well before I send it. Was a bit of a semi formatted brain dump when I posted up.

I was kind of holding back on the firm dates if they did not respond properly but then again I may as well go balls in now I guess, and just make it a LBA.

My only minor issue with saying I will return it is that its also panels so they could potentially call my bluff there and I wouldn't want that, hence saying I would get it fixed and charge them for doing so.
The panels and inverter are fine (well inverter for the DC side from panels). Finding someone to actually uninstall it would probably be drama to say the least.

I think I may say I would contact another company with a view to replacing the batteries, BMS and inverter and recover the costs from them. Thats probably £8k of cost there so should be enough to peak their attention.
Plus it leaves the panels in place!
 
It won't be in any app, but you may be able to read it via a communication port on the battery, worth doing a bit of googling etc, it may be your only way to prove a faulty cell.

Actually just had a thought, if you have more than one battery, can you run with one disconnected, and see how it performs, then reconnect and disconnect another, and so on, it may help confirm which battery is faulty?

Generally you need to avoid the very low and very high cell voltages, as this stresses the cells, but it depends entirely on what they've set in the BMS and is a bit out of control, but the lower voltages can be avoided by setting a higher minimum SOC.

Its practically impossible to get to most of the stuff as its a stacked system. And to be honest I am almost certainly not a) technical enough b) in ownership of anything I may need c) wanting to risk getting really hands on incase they claim i have affected something

Its 4 batteries x 3.1 This is the system https://www.solaxpower.com/x-ess-g4/

Sorry in regards running more or less batteries, not easily due to how they are setup, and its again something I wouldn't want to mess with as they would likely get funny about that
 
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Its practically impossible to get to most of the stuff as its a stacked system. And to be honest I am almost certainly not a) technical enough b) in ownership of anything I may need c) wanting to risk getting really hands on incase they claim i have affected something

Its 4 batteries x 3.1 This is the system https://www.solaxpower.com/x-ess-g4/

Sorry in regards running more or less batteries, not easily due to how they are setup, and its again something I wouldn't want to mess with as they would likely get funny about that

I see what you mean, not a lot you can do with that, all pretty self contained, and as you say if you did start tampering with it then they could easily blame you and void the warranty.

If you don't get anywhere it may well be worth contacting Solax UK, they may have engineers that could take a look, either on site or remotely.
 
I see what you mean, not a lot you can do with that, all pretty self contained, and as you say if you did start tampering with it then they could easily blame you and void the warranty.

If you don't get anywhere it may well be worth contacting Solax UK, they may have engineers that could take a look, either on site or remotely.

I have tried Solax, they are a total joke from what I can tell.

I sent them a detailed question, basically could they confirm if the web portal displayed usable or full system capacity and hence the 10% SOC minimum displayed was 10% of 12.3kWh?
They responded with SOC means state of charge.
They are mainly based in China and I think short staffed in the UK. (I have seen them advertise for support staff on Twitter)

I previously tried to engage with them as to why can I not find the option for the battery heating. They said its in the app, thats it.
Subsequently last week I think I have identified it is from a screenshot the installers sent, but it looks to me like the option is in the installer menu!
 
I just had a thought, they are MCS registered. I think I need to send a letter of complaint first.
Then if not resolved, advise MCS.

A complaint might include the following:

  • Faulty system or individual components
  • Issues with the standard of workmanship
  • Electrical or safety issues
  • Issues relating to the system’s design, size or performance
  • Non-compliance with relevant installation Standards
  • Handover pack incomplete
  • Missing or incorrect MCS certificate
  • Any instance which may bring the MCS scheme into disrepute
If you have concerns about your installation, please complete the below steps:

Step 1 – Send a formal letter of complaint to the Installer who carried out the work and give them the opportunity to resolve the issue. Please note you should be prepared to allow your Installer access to your installation to enable them to address or resolve your complaint.

Step 2 – If you have issued a formal letter of complaint to the Installer and they have failed to resolve your complaint, within 14 days, please complete all of the information on the “Somethings Gone Wrong” form and submit it to us.
 
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