Tabletop Warhammer?

U0uD7d1l.jpg


As per my newbie thread went to local gw store to pick up paints and start my first set.

Assembled first one (took longer than expected and my hands struggled with the more fiddly parts :p).

Primed and ready to paint:
J2kBcTql.jpg
 
Looking like a good start.

No gluey fingerprints or blood visible ;)
I joke but every time I do models when too tired I seem to end up with glue in the wrong spot (fortunately usually out of sight), or on my fingers, or Khorne gets an unintentional offering.
 
So I accidentally bought some dry paint, at the store. Am I able to exchange unopened pots for other colours if I go back (have the receipt)?
 
I think so, it's worth a try.

They used to be very good about exchanging sealed stuff (even the big boxes) as they were the only people making it and would normally just put it straight back on the shelf.
 
Werewolf said:
I think so, it's worth a try.

They used to be very good about exchanging sealed stuff (even the big boxes) as they were the only people making it and would normally just put it straight back on the shelf.
Click to expand...

Ok will pop in this weekend and see if I can.

Not the end of the world if I cant, few quid down the drain as I don't drybrush but meh chalk it up to experience!
 
Go easy on me as its my first painting attempt, progress so far (still base coating, layering and shading to follow) but need some ideas. I've gone for the Asheater boyz colour scheme (predominantly black with either red or white accents) but struggling on how to paint the front armour.

I don't want to make it too busy, the jaw part of the main armour has me stumped as well, should I leave it black or would it look weird with the teeth which are bone coloured. Also the armour directly in front of the face, should I leave it black as well? So many possibilities and I'm struggling to visualise it.

Help would be appreciated

dZOcV0Jl.jpg

ezoAplll.jpg
 
Kiyoshi said:
If that's your first attempt at painting - well done. It looks very neat, keep it up!
Click to expand...

Thanks, combination of 0 & 10/0 brushes only. Didn't touch any other brushes in my set as they both gave me the precision I wanted. I admit that's taken an inordinate amount of time tbh (I don't want to admit how long so far given how little I've done :p) but I didn't want to do a sloppy job.
 
SS-89 said:
Thanks, combination of 0 & 10/0 brushes only. Didn't touch any other brushes in my set as they both gave me the precision I wanted. I admit that's taken an inordinate amount of time tbh (I don't want to admit how long so far given how little I've done :p) but I didn't want to do a sloppy job.
Click to expand...

Nothing wrong with slow and steady, especially if it gives the results you are achieving. Very good start there, well done. You will probably find as you paint more and get more and more used to painting models that you get a bit quicker with each one you paint.

As for your question around the black armour, leaving it black will probably work fine. However if you wanted something for the Jaw piece you could maybe try a white, like in this picture to give you a bit of contrast
attachment.php
Red also works as a good contrast colour against black.

You can highlight the black up using some grey edge highlights to give it a bit of depth. Something like an Eshin Grey for the main edge highlight and then a lighter grey on the highest points, think Dawnstone would probably work (both GW paints btw). Not sure if that helps?
 
Spuj said:
Nothing wrong with slow and steady, especially if it gives the results you are achieving. Very good start there, well done. You will probably find as you paint more and get more and more used to painting models that you get a bit quicker with each one you paint.

As for your question around the black armour, leaving it black will probably work fine. However if you wanted something for the Jaw piece you could maybe try a white, like in this picture to give you a bit of contrast
attachment.php
Red also works as a good contrast colour against black.

You can highlight the black up using some grey edge highlights to give it a bit of depth. Something like an Eshin Grey for the main edge highlight and then a lighter grey on the highest points, think Dawnstone would probably work (both GW paints btw). Not sure if that helps?
Click to expand...

Interesting ideas I think I'll give some of them a shot. I already have dawn stone I think but will need to check.
 
Just bought some "System Troopers" from Pig Iron Productions as just some generic soldiers for either Dust or War-hammer 40k, or whatever 28mm game I decide to play eventually, "counts as". Mainly for something to paint that isn't fantasy (have 9 more Dark Elf Corsairs to paint and I don't want to do it....).

Vr8HiLv.png


@ SS-89 - Looking good so far, nice and clean!

One thing I recommend is to mount the miniature on a wine cork or something first** and paint it on that over gluing it to its base and using that to hold on to whilst paint as getting underneath is going to be a struggle. Also, even if you don't mean to, you will be handling the miniature on parts you have already painted which can sometimes remove paint if you are unlucky.

Another thing, since you look like the kind of chap who likes to do things properly (can tell by the clean base goats you put down!). Look into using a wet pallet. Is an easy way to get more life out of your paints and insures that they are watered down correctly. It is basically a piece of baking paper placed over a sponge (or paper towel) saturated with water. This along with a decent brush really stepped up my painting.


**As in, I usually use my pin vice drill to drill a small hole under one of the feat, then super clue in a straight part of a paper clip, let it set, then stick the end of it into a piece of cork. Do it for both feet and you will have something better to hold onto whilst you paint. If you wanted to you can do something similar for the heads of miniatures (this is even more true for Ork models, as usually the tongue is part of the torso and painting that after you glue the head on is a PITA.
 
Yep I am already using a wet palette, very useful.

Thanks for the other tip though will definitely use the cork method on subsequent models.
 
Been playing Total War: Warhammer, on the start up screen there's a link to the GW shop and I gotta say, some of those models look fantastic. Only ever painted 40k models, and they were primary Space Marines.

Does me make want to dust off my painting equiptment, but I hate to think how dry my paints are and I'm pretty sure I've forgotten how to paint anyhow. :p
 
Recently just splashed a little cash on some new brushes from Rosemary and Co. After ruining my winsor newton ones (before I discovered that you shouldn't have paint in the ferrel) and not being able to afford to replace them, I opted for some Series 33. We have a 2/0, a 1 and a 2. Going back, I would have just got the size 2 and the 2/0. The 1 isn't going to get used much.

Cost me £12 for all three, pretty decent price for sable hair.

376b36812d094a058adf100d2eca9888.png


It's so much easier painting with brushes that dont have split ends!
 
I've been keeping myself busy painting the Stardrake over the last few months!
Here's some WIP. The amount of detail on this miniature is staggering. I've still got the head and the wings to paint. :)

1tt2jd.jpg


fth3mb.jpg


2u61fuu.jpg


25f1v8x.jpg


I have no idea why the images have uploaded in the orientation they have! Sorry folks.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top Bottom