* The Car Cleaning Thread *

Rainmaker · 13 Mar 2016 at 23:20

Lakeland said:
Any decent wheel cleaner solutions? I'm using car chem revolt at the moment which is ok but it doesn't go far and it absolutely sinks...

Raymond Lin said:
My feeling is that I don't need to or want to use anything strong. Anything I wouldn't use on the paintwork I wouldn't use on the wheels. This is after a conversation with the guys who refurb my last set of alloys of my Yaris. They recommend just car shampoo, treat the wheels like you do as paintwork.

Sonax Xtreme Wheel Cleaner Plus imho. It's basically a beefed up iron/fallout remover in a clingy formula that doesn't require brushing. It's acid free, so no worries about damage and it works great (check out some YT vids). That or just use a normal iron/fallout remover and a soft alloy brush if you have any on hand. Both products can be used on bodywork so there's nothing to fear on that score.

The Sonax Xtreme Wheel Rim Sealant is a nano product which also gives good protection after a base clean, and has good reviews (you just spray it on and wipe off). Sonax is pretty under the radar but they have some really decent stuff. You could use something like GTechniq C2v3 instead perhaps.

I spent three hours doing the in-laws' white Polo today. I wish I'd taken before/after pics now I've seen the end result! It hadn't been washed in an age and the whole car was bright purple after a mist of fallout remover.

After that, a two bucket wash with pH neutral AG body shampoo (wax free) and a real lambswool mitt, then rinsed off with Gyeon WetCoat and finally topped with wax. I'll get around to applying C2v3 at some point, but the WetCoat was on hand and does the whole car (glass, bodywork, trim, wheels) and is really quick/convenient, so that got used for now. Finally, tyre dressing and glass was done last and it looks like a different car now lol.

I just ordered some C2v3 and Sonax BSD for when the Superb finally arrives (this week or next!). Apparently if you mix them 1:1:1 with distilled water and use as a LSP to keep the base protection topped up, it gives a fantastic finish with the best of both products. You can then just use C2v3 1:20 with distilled water as a QD between major washes/top ups. It works out really cheap and the beading/self-cleaning is brill.

Raymond Lin · 13 Mar 2016 at 23:31

Rainmaker said:
Sonax Xtreme Wheel Cleaner Plus imho. It's basically a beefed up iron/fallout remover in a clingy formula that doesn't require brushing. It's acid free, so no worries about damage and it works great (check out some YT vids). That or just use a normal iron/fallout remover and a soft alloy brush if you have any on hand. Both products can be used on bodywork so there's nothing to fear on that score.

The Sonax Xtreme Wheel Rim Sealant is a nano product which also gives good protection after a base clean, and has good reviews (you just spray it on and wipe off). Sonax is pretty under the radar but they have some really decent stuff. You could use something like GTechniq C2v3 instead perhaps.

I spent three hours doing the in-laws' white Polo today. I wish I'd taken before/after pics now I've seen the end result! It hadn't been washed in an age and the whole car was bright purple after a mist of fallout remover. After that, a two bucket wash with pH neutral AG body shampoo (wax free) and a real lambswool mitt, then rinsed off with Gyeon WetCoat and finally topped with wax. I'll get around to applying C2v3 at some point, but the WetCoat was on hand and does the whole car (glass, bodywork, trim, wheels) and is really quick/convenient, so that got used for now. Finally, tyre dressing and glass was done last and it looks like a different car now lol.

I just ordered some C2v3 and Sonax BSD for when the Superb finally arrives (this week or next!). Apparently if you mix them 1:1:1 with distilled water and use as a LSP to keep the base protection topped up, it gives a fantastic finish with the best of both products. You can then just use C2v3 1:20 with distilled water as a QD between major washes/top ups. It works out really cheap and the beading/self-cleaning is brill.

Thanks, I was going to get some Iron-X but the no brushing needed perk sold me on this one!

I have a DAS pro that I really should get out to use on the car on the next wash. Will really do a full clay, polish, wax treatment.

Now I got to figure out what pads to get, the machine comes with a 125mm and 150mm backing plate. Can anyone recommend some pads?

For polishing I have some AG Super Resin Polish and Meguiar Ultimate Compound, I guess the latter would be better as it also cut where as SRP is just for fill. Then will wax it with some Collinate 845 Insulator. Really prefer semi liquid wax of late, especially since I hurt my back last time cleaning my car ! (cost me like £400 in osteopath treatment to fix).

shauncr91 · 13 Mar 2016 at 23:37

Raymond Lin said:
What does the Pad Lube for? Is it to use after waxing ?

I put a couple of squirts on the pad when moving to a new panel, it just helps to reduce friction between the pad and paint + helps the polish to spread a bit.

Raymond Lin · 13 Mar 2016 at 23:43

shauncr91 said:
I put a couple of squirts on the pad when moving to a new panel, it just helps to reduce friction between the pad and paint + helps the polish to spread a bit.

But what about the wax?

I mean, at what stage do you use this product?

shauncr91 · 13 Mar 2016 at 23:44

Raymond Lin said:
But what about the wax?

I mean, at what stage do you use this product?

It's used during the polishing stage, I apply wax with a foam applicator and remove with a microfibre cloth

Raymond Lin · 13 Mar 2016 at 23:53

shauncr91 said:
It's used during the polishing stage, I apply wax with a foam applicator and remove with a microfibre cloth

So when polishing with the DA, you apply that lube first on the panel, then you apply the polish ?

Amos91 · 14 Mar 2016 at 08:32

Raymond Lin said:
So when polishing with the DA, you apply that lube first on the panel, then you apply the polish ?

I really suggest you read up on using the DA before you attack the paint.

All it basically does is prime the pad for first use, alternatively you can just apply polish to the pad, work on a small section of paint at a low speed to work it in. Obviously between panels its also good practise to clean out all the old polish with a terry cloth or pad cleaning brush (toothbrush).

I've never found the need to use pad primer before each panel.

Howard · 14 Mar 2016 at 08:37

Raymond Lin said:
So when polishing with the DA, you apply that lube first on the panel, then you apply the polish ?

No. Do some reading / watch some YouTube tutorials before you use your DA like the guy above said. Otherwise you'll get it wrong.

You don't really need a special pad lube/primer, just a little spray of water will do if anything. You only really need to do it when you're starting off to get the pad wettened/a bit more supple. But basically:

-When starting, give the pad a spray or two of water/quick detailer/whatever
-Apply 3 blobs of polish to pad
-dab the pad on the paint on the area you're about to polish
-start on a slow speed, work in up-down motions (or left to right) in an area of about 2 sq-ft max
-increase speed a bit, gradually, and keep working it in until the polish is a barely-visible haze. Don't apply too much pressure but at the same time don't be too light-handed
-stop once it's a barely visible haze, and buff off with a microfibre cloth
-admire the shiny

Remember to make sure the pad is touching the paint when you start and stop the DA, else you and your surroundings will be wearing polish.

Amos91 · 14 Mar 2016 at 08:42

Watch the Junkman videos (part 1-5)

Pads I'd recommend to start with would be the Chemical Guys Hexlogic range -

4" + 5.5" pads of the following:

White
Green
Orange

Plus slightly smaller DA backing plates.

Then Menzerna polishes such as 106FA & PO203S work really nicely.

Draeger · 14 Mar 2016 at 08:48

Hi guys,

Could someone recommend an effective upholstery cleaner foam type spray? We have a 5 year old lad who has no concept of 'try not to get your muddy shoes everywhere'!!

Looking at the Simoniz foam stuff from Halfrauds, the one with the brush built in to it, any good?

rhysduck · 14 Mar 2016 at 08:53

AutoGlym Interior Shampoo gives me great results.

Raymond Lin · 14 Mar 2016 at 09:11

Howard said:
No. Do some reading / watch some YouTube tutorials before you use your DA like the guy above said. Otherwise you'll get it wrong.

You don't really need a special pad lube/primer, just a little spray of water will do if anything. You only really need to do it when you're starting off to get the pad wettened/a bit more supple. But basically:

-When starting, give the pad a spray or two of water/quick detailer/whatever
-Apply 3 blobs of polish to pad
-dab the pad on the paint on the area you're about to polish
-start on a slow speed, work in up-down motions (or left to right) in an area of about 2 sq-ft max
-increase speed a bit, gradually, and keep working it in until the polish is a barely-visible haze. Don't apply too much pressure but at the same time don't be too light-handed
-stop once it's a barely visible haze, and buff off with a microfibre cloth
-admire the shiny

Remember to make sure the pad is touching the paint when you start and stop the DA, else you and your surroundings will be wearing polish.

I've seen all the videos before, I know the danger of stripper the paint with a DA, hence I ask what is this lube as I've never heard of it, I know why scratches happen and the differences between cut and fill.

The question was simply when do you use this lube. It seems obvious that it's not necessary.

shauncr91 · 14 Mar 2016 at 09:38

Amos91 said:
I really suggest you read up on using the DA before you attack the paint.

All it basically does is prime the pad for first use, alternatively you can just apply polish to the pad, work on a small section of paint at a low speed to work it in. Obviously between panels its also good practise to clean out all the old polish with a terry cloth or pad cleaning brush (toothbrush).

I've never found the need to use pad primer before each panel.

I would use it as you say if I was using a foam pad however I prefer to do it every panel on a microfibre pad just because they get warmer quicker than foam and it helps the fibres get less clogged up

Raymond Lin · 14 Mar 2016 at 13:32

Amos91 said:
Watch the Junkman videos (part 1-5)

Pads I'd recommend to start with would be the Chemical Guys Hexlogic range -

4" + 5.5" pads of the following:

White
Green
Orange

Plus slightly smaller DA backing plates.

Then Menzerna polishes such as 106FA & PO203S work really nicely.

Tbh, I'm a little scared of cut so won't get the White pads, just green and then black. Using SRP as filler is enough. I'm happy knowing I'm not stripping any paint at all doing that. The paint work on the car doesn't look that bad from last wash anyway.

norm · 14 Mar 2016 at 20:15

Raymond Lin said:
Tbh, I'm a little scared of cut so won't get the White pads, just green and then black. Using SRP as filler is enough. I'm happy knowing I'm not stripping any paint at all doing that. The paint work on the car doesn't look that bad from last wash anyway.

Depends how tough/swirled your paint is. I started out using white pads thinking I don't want to cut too deep, but in reality it barely took out the swirls and resulted in a lot of wasted effort. When I put an orange pad on the polisher actually did its work.

AndyCr15 · 16 Mar 2016 at 10:26

It's not directly a car cleaning question, but didn't want to make a whole new thread for it, any tips on sticking this trim back in place on my door?

Is it as simple as just some d-abs of super glue? I have some 3M craft mount, maybe I should try that?

paradigm · 16 Mar 2016 at 10:49

I'd not use superglue on leather or vinyl, it goes too hard.

You want a decent contact adhesive, like EvoStik or similar.

scaza · 16 Mar 2016 at 11:01

Would vinyl floor adhesive not work with that? The sort in the spray can.

Cookeh · 16 Mar 2016 at 11:16

Does it not just slip behind the lip and get held in place by the trim?

Amos91 · 16 Mar 2016 at 11:55

Raymond Lin said:
Tbh, I'm a little scared of cut so won't get the White pads, just green and then black. Using SRP as filler is enough. I'm happy knowing I'm not stripping any paint at all doing that. The paint work on the car doesn't look that bad from last wash anyway.

Green has more cut than white

. All depends how hard your clearcoat is the the level of swirl damage.

*** The Car Cleaning Thread ***

* The Car Cleaning Thread *