*** The Car Cleaning Thread ***

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So today amazon delivered:

Some Hex pads for DA
10L Cherry & Orange ProKleen Snow foam
New Snow foam lance
two Buckets & Grit guards
2 Wool Mits.

Next weeks order will be some new Polish and some decent wax for the DA.

Cant wait to get 3 hours spare to use all this
 
none of the fancy cleaners for inside of the cars?

I have a bottle of Poorboys Natural Look Dressing. It seems to have lasted years, and it's all I use to clean the hard interior surfaces, i.e. not the fabrics. You hardly have to use much, and it leaves nice matte 'new look' finish. None of this shiny plastic nonsense. It does a lovely job and smells nice as a bonus.

As said, sometimes it's beneficial to have a bit more than just water if you're in a hard water area.
 
Looking after and cleaning a car, idiots guide?

I finally got my first car.

It's a 2016, Fabia 1.2 110 Monte Carlo. I didn't pay extra for the whole Supagard thing, researching it seemed to tell me you pay £299 for someone to do something that you could do yourself for less than a quarter the price.

So I want to keep it in good condition, but I know nothing about cleaning and keeping a car looking new. I could take it to a car wash (the kind you find in supermarket carparks that offer a valet service), I hear they do a good job. But I thought I may aswell get some products so I can keep it clean myself.

I'm already getting really anal about water spots and marks on it.
What products would you guys recommend and whats the process?

People have mentioned Autoglynn? Wax? As long as I can keep it clean without swirls, water marks and lines on the windows (few things that have annoyed me already!)

Just looking for a starting point :)

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bucket of warm water with some car shampoo in will do. have a separate bucket for wheel and paint/glass and then because its black its impossible to polish without getting scratch marks. :p

you choose the worst colour to clean ever.
 
Well your first mistake was buying a black car, the best colour, but the hardest to keep looking pristine. :P

Use a good quality wash mitt, Gtechniqs WM2, and only wash it using the two bucket method, preferably with grit guards.

Then clay the paint you'd be surprised how much comes off a new car, then seal it with a good wax of your choice.

And resist the temptation to wipe off water spots etc as you'll only mark the paint.
 
As a starting point, I'd recommend the following and build it as you go. Think there is a car cleaning thread on here, and detailing world is a good forum to pick stuff up.

2 buckets - grit guards come recommended by some too.
Microfiber or lambs wool wash mitt
Shampoo - I really like Sonax Red Summer (eurocarparts have this and there's often a 30% code)
Polish - Autoglym Super Resin Polish gives great results
Wax - Autoglym HD wax is my go to wax, always results in good beading when it rains.
Wheel Cleaner and a wheel brush - Bilberry wheel cleaner does a good job for me.
Wheel Sealant
Tyre dressing
Microfiber drying towel

Later on you may wish to progress to clay bars, tar remover, iron remover, DA / Rotary polishing etc. It quite easily becomes an addictive hobby!
 
Be warned. Swirl marks are impossible to avoid.

Also your car will.be dirty the moment you drive it after a wash. That's why loads of new 16 platE cars are caked in dirt, people cba cleaning it off constantly.

But if you do plan on doing it then get ready to spend upwards of 100 quid on the tools required. Also a pressure washer is required with a snow foam lance.
 
Quick question, what do people use for cleaning off white polish marks from black plastic bodywork trim? Is there a product or some kind of trick to it?

Also has anyone tried Triplewax Fast Wax? Seems worth a shot at £3.50 for a bottle.

fast_wax.jpg
 
Cheers for advice.

How about tips for window? One thing that's bothering me a lot is lines on the side windows from where you open and close the window when you've got debris, bits of leaves etc on the window seal thing?
They can't be scratches can they?

What's best way to keep them clean without too much effort?
 
Cheers for advice.

How about tips for window? One thing that's bothering me a lot is lines on the side windows from where you open and close the window when you've got debris, bits of leaves etc on the window seal thing?
They can't be scratches can they?

What's best way to keep them clean without too much effort?

I use rainx window cleaner.

It cleans well and applys a nice aquaphoBic layer.

I keep it in the boot with some microfiber and every morning give all the windows a quick clean.

Might be ott but I can't stand a dirty window.

My windscreen is peppered with chips and wiper scratches which I'm very close to tapping it with a hammer and having autoglass replace it lol
 
I use rainx window cleaner.

It cleans well and applys a nice aquaphoBic layer.

I keep it in the boot with some microfiber and every morning give all the windows a quick clean.

Might be ott but I can't stand a dirty window.

My windscreen is peppered with chips and wiper scratches which I'm very close to tapping it with a hammer and having autoglass replace it lol

Didn't like RainX myself. Only last a few weeks, and smears like heck when it's going off.

Try Gteqniq G1 Glass treatment. Costs about £10, and lasts upto 2 years. I used G4 Glass Polish, and G6 Glass cleaner too. Not the cheapest combo overall, especially just for glass, but it does the job, and does it VERY well. Barely ever need to use the window wipers. Of course, G1 is really for if you generally drive at higher speeds. G5 (I think) works better at lower speeds, but only lasts 6 months or so per application. Still gonna be better than Rain X though. And probably easier to apply than G1.

As for the actual paintwork, as said above, the two bucket method, with grit guard, is meant to be the best. I personally don't bother everytime, but do occasionally employ this method. I always use a lambswool mitt, or microfibre wash sponge thing. I found Meguires Hyperwash to make for an excellent car shampoo, as well as snow foam, and you really don't need to use much, it is very concentrated. It isn't overly cheap though. But will last a decent time. I usually rinse the car first, then snowfoam, then wash with mitt, then move onto the next process.

IronX, Autosmart Tardis etc... They are bug & tar removers, and are really great. But you probably wont need them at this stage on a newer car. But handy to have for later.

Claying the car before polishing will certainly help ensure you have a nice, smooth surface to start polishing with. Halfords do a decent meguires starter clay kit, that comes with a bottle of quick detailer as your lube. It's a good combination, but the QD is quite expensive to keep up using as a lube. Once you bottle is half empty, top it up with water. Once it's proper empty, then just use water with a bit of car shampoo in it, and that should do the trick nicely.

I'd probably snowfoam again after this point, just to get rid of any residues or anything, then dry.

Then you would polish your car. I have had great results with AutoGlym Super Resin Polish. It's not the best polish out there, but it works well by hand, and is a decent place to start. If you catch the bug, and start getting really into it, buying polishers and stuff, then there are other polishes out there with different properties, depending on if you just want a good shine, or paint correction etc...

After the polish, I use a good sealant. I have had good results with Menzerna Power Lock. Easy to apply, easy to buff off, great results.

Then finish with a wax. I have used Meguires (I think) NXT Tech Wax before and it's been great, giving a lovely shine. But there are better waxes out there too. So worth having a read up. Something like Collinite 476S should be great.

Now, that's really about as far as I'd ever go, and even then, I rarely go that far. I do use the Gtechniq on the glass though, as it really is fantastic stuff. You can get almost everything from Halfords, but the Gtechniq you'll likely need to order online, so might just be worth ordering everything else at same time. But it wont be cheap setting up for the first time. Some steps you could drop initially. Like the claying I guess, but then that does make one of the biggest differences to the final result, it's kinda worth just paying for. Polished bliss do free delivery on everything, so might be worth checking them out for some orders, particularly smaller ones. But they don't do the GTechniq stuff, for that I usually use http://www.cleanyourcar.co.uk/ But other outlets are available.
 
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I could take it to a car wash (the kind you find in supermarket carparks that offer a valet service), I hear they do a good job.

Don't do this. Ever.

Listen to the above advice of kit to buy and do it all yourself. With a good technique and taking your time you'll be much better off.
 
Any tips for the inside? Treating the fabric on the seats against stains?

What's happened to the image in the first post?

I still see it?

Didn't like RainX myself. Only last a few weeks, and smears like heck when it's going off.

Try Gteqniq G1 Glass treatment. Costs about £10, and lasts upto 2 years. I used G4 Glass Polish, and G6 Glass cleaner too. Not the cheapest combo overall, especially just for glass, but it does the job, and does it VERY well. Barely ever need to use the window wipers. Of course, G1 is really for if you generally drive at higher speeds. G5 (I think) works better at lower speeds, but only lasts 6 months or so per application. Still gonna be better than Rain X though. And probably easier to apply than G1.

As for the actual paintwork, as said above, the two bucket method, with grit guard, is meant to be the best. I personally don't bother everytime, but do occasionally employ this method. I always use a lambswool mitt, or microfibre wash sponge thing. I found Meguires Hyperwash to make for an excellent car shampoo, as well as snow foam, and you really don't need to use much, it is very concentrated. It isn't overly cheap though. But will last a decent time. I usually rinse the car first, then snowfoam, then wash with mitt, then move onto the next process.

IronX, Autosmart Tardis etc... They are bug & tar removers, and are really great. But you probably wont need them at this stage on a newer car. But handy to have for later.

Claying the car before polishing will certainly help ensure you have a nice, smooth surface to start polishing with. Halfords do a decent meguires starter clay kit, that comes with a bottle of quick detailer as your lube. It's a good combination, but the QD is quite expensive to keep up using as a lube. Once you bottle is half empty, top it up with water. Once it's proper empty, then just use water with a bit of car shampoo in it, and that should do the trick nicely.

I'd probably snowfoam again after this point, just to get rid of any residues or anything, then dry.

Then you would polish your car. I have had great results with AutoGlym Super Resin Polish. It's not the best polish out there, but it works well by hand, and is a decent place to start. If you catch the bug, and start getting really into it, buying polishers and stuff, then there are other polishes out there with different properties, depending on if you just want a good shine, or paint correction etc...

After the polish, I use a good sealant. I have had good results with Menzerna Power Lock. Easy to apply, easy to buff off, great results.

Then finish with a wax. I have used Meguires (I think) NXT Tech Wax before and it's been great, giving a lovely shine. But there are better waxes out there too. So worth having a read up. Something like Collinite 476S should be great.

Now, that's really about as far as I'd ever go, and even then, I rarely go that far. I do use the Gtechniq on the glass though, as it really is fantastic stuff. You can get almost everything from Halfords, but the Gtechniq you'll likely need to order online, so might just be worth ordering everything else at same time. But it wont be cheap setting up for the first time. Some steps you could drop initially. Like the claying I guess, but then that does make one of the biggest differences to the final result, it's kinda worth just paying for. Polished bliss do free delivery on everything, so might be worth checking them out for some orders, particularly smaller ones. But they don't do the GTechniq stuff, for that I usually use http://www.cleanyourcar.co.uk/ But other outlets are available.

That's some good advice. I really appreciate it. Is most of it achievable without having a hose? My car park is some distance from my home so difficult if not impossible to use a hose.

Before applying the glass product how do you clean the window? Assuming the other products you mention you'd use first then the treatment one last? I'm hoping the feint lines aren't scratches already, wouldn't make sense if they are. But they seem stubborn. I know i'm asking the most basic stupid questions but I want to get it right to start with :D
 
Any tips for the inside? Treating the fabric on the seats against stains?



I still see it?



That's some good advice. I really appreciate it. Is most of it achievable without having a hose? My car park is some distance from my home so difficult if not impossible to use a hose.

Before applying the glass product how do you clean the window? Assuming the other products you mention you'd use first then the treatment one last? I'm hoping the feint lines aren't scratches already, wouldn't make sense if they are. But they seem stubborn. I know i'm asking the most basic stupid questions but I want to get it right to start with :D

I suppose you could do most of it without a hose, but it would be several trips to the house with the bucket of water, lol. I think you can get hand pump things if you're really stuck. Shame though, as a hose and pressure washer is obviously the best solution.

For the glass, I usually wash with soapy water and mitt, then use G6 fast glass (cleaner), the G4 polish, then the G1 treatment (it comes in 2 parts, G1 + G2, so you apply G1 over windscreen, then rest of glass, then another layer on windscreen, then leave 15 mins, and another layer. Rest of glass only needs 1 layer. Leave 15-30 mins, then take off with G2. Best if you can leave it after that for 12-24 hours out of the rain).

Obviously water is needed at some points, like when actually washing the car, and removing bug and tar remover. But once that's done, and you have finished the claying step (and quick wash / rinse after that), the rest of it is done dry, so shouldn't matter so much. Maybe have a spray bottle of water handy just in case.
 
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