The Indoor Riding/ Zwift/ TrainerRoad etc. Thread

Soldato
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23 Nov 2004
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A c bear should be replaceable, a lot of BB use the MR2437 bearing if it's for 24mm spindle.

I haven't races zwift with no HUD but imagine it's quite a good thing, seeing a block of red on the graph as someone attacks puts your mind in a sad place. No HUD you might just go with it as you don't know any better.

I did a B race Apr style yesterday and jumped in with the A guys that came by. Managed most of a lap with them but stupidly took a 5wkg pull out of the sea tunnel, whilst it was steady, for them to attack over the top. I'd have done the same so should have saw it coming. Still rolled in 1st B but in second A group 15a down.

Up the hill today at 50.23 312w for ToW, my mate **** out it 10 minutes in after sticking 5he boot in for the first few corners. I'd hoped for more power but happy time wise for the weight I'm carrying.

Position wise I've stuck my saddle up a fair amount and forward a lot. Added a 3mm shim to my left foot and it's feeling pretty good. Making a point of stretching seems to be making a difference, it's awfully sore though.

I think it's H for hud? I know it's G for the graph at the bottom of the screen.
 
Soldato
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Yeah I’ve had a look, they list the ceramics at 98 euro to replace…. Or is the magic in the machined alloy cups and I just put SKF stainless in there with a bit of grease at 30 quid ish! I’m using Rotor cranks so 61806 30mm spindle. Maybe I do the SKF, see how I go and take it from there! I had a bit of everything on my old R5 and couldn’t say one was better than the other.

Jumping from summer to winter bike testing the turbo I noticed the geometry change! Need to saddle down a bit, nose down a bit and maybe look at a more aggressive drop step, it felt like a sit up and beg position!

No HUD was interesting, but when everyone gets on the gas for the sprint you’re a second or two behind before you realise as you can’t see their power numbers and there’s no tell sign. Anyway my numbers were pretty good, I’m not unhappy.
 
Soldato
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10,646
Aye 6806 is the other common one, can't go wrong with SKF or NTN really. Just getting the bearing out without taking the cup out may prove difficult, easy if it's a thread together style over press fit.

I might try and get my race bike out tomorrow to give it a whirl before the local group ride on Saturday. Lower, narrower bars, different gearing and 50mm carbon wheels make a difference to how a bike feels.
 
Soldato
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The joys of an axle running directly onto the steel inner race of the bearing?

A wee boiled kettle over it can help on occasion.
Used to use that trick on car gearboxes for bearing removal. Warm it up so it expands slightly. To refit put the bearing in the freezer so it drops back in the hole easier!

I think it’s an alloy crank but yes steel bearings and I used bearing retainer to reduce the fretting? Wear on the spindle.

A 1kg rubber dead blow hammer did it with two fairly light taps.

Compared to the steel hammer and block of wood yesterday almost no effort. Laid the frame on towels on the floor to support it.

DS bearing perfect. NDS very slightly notchy in one spot, I’d say like a 2 or 3 out of 10 on the 0 new to 10 knackered scale.

Cleaned and degreased everything, took chainrings off and redid all those too. Rebuilt it. Spins a bit more free but if you really wazz it round there is some (dry) bearing noise. Give it 24hrs and ride it tomorrow and see. The NDS can be removed from the cup using the Park tool provided it plays ball and I’d be fairly happy pressing a new one in. New ceramics are £90 though… that £15 SKF looking appealing!
 
Associate
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I "won" the bling-bling Lightweight wheels at the top of the Alpe on Sunday morning :cool:

Well done - did you have a lot of attempts before you got them? I got the gloves (again) on the longer stage 3 ToW ride. I accidentally ended up getting close to my best time up the Alpe, and should have given it an extra 1% and selected a lighter bike. Ah well, next time...
 
Soldato
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Well done - did you have a lot of attempts before you got them? I got the gloves (again) on the longer stage 3 ToW ride. I accidentally ended up getting close to my best time up the Alpe, and should have given it an extra 1% and selected a lighter bike. Ah well, next time...

I did the 8am ToW ride on Sunday which was (only) my fourth time up the Alpe, so quite lucky to get the fancy-pants wheels. Ducked inside an hour for the first time (58:55), so need to decide on a new target. Might aim for under 55 minutes...
 
Soldato
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Hereford
Next FRR Stage race (Tour International) starts this weekend. Got 12 Stages to ride from this sunday 13th until the 27th...!

So far so good... But I wasn't wrong about it being brutal! :D :rolleyes: :cry:
https://www.strava.com/activities/6815769667 Stage 1 iTT - 4th in Class
https://www.strava.com/activities/6816338572 Stage 2 Race - 7th in Class
https://www.strava.com/activities/6829663064 Stage 3 Race - 12th in Class
https://www.strava.com/activities/6834800959 Stage 4 TTT - 8th
Stage 5 skipped
https://www.strava.com/activities/6848792308 Stage 6 Race - 1st in Class
https://www.strava.com/activities/6852349983 Stage 7 Race - 6th in Class
https://www.strava.com/activities/6866117336 Stage 8 TTT - 3rd

Just 4 stages left. I'm not riding todays (Yorkshire) then Fridays is an iTT twice up Bologna. Always enjoy that one and going to likely skip Thursday nights WTRL TTT to be a bit fresher for it! Saturdays is going to be brutal The Pretzel but Sundays is around Champs-Élysées and have heard/seen rumours will be ridden like the final of the TdF. So in my mind that is an 'easy' roll around for a few laps, then sprints the final couple - but we'll see! ;)

Need a bike for my tacx now the weather is better for short training sessions in the morning. Do you reckon this’ll cut the mustard with a decent seat and of course pedals.

I have a crux but I’ve just had it serviced and repaired. I don’t want to be taking it on off on off etc it costs me more in repairs.

Looked at s/h but I need an xl frame and by the time I’ve been through the junk there’s nothing suitable.



https://www.evanscycles.com/brand/ceres/rd-2-2021-road-bike-934561#colcode=93456102
I'd keep looking at S/H mate or some 'end of line' sales. In your XL size you might find more deals, or bikes available in places for longer.

I've never heard of Ceres (except maybe doing wheels?) so it's a complete unknown for me. I'd be avoiding it due to the microshift setup - normally garbage and to be avoided, but at that price for a bike just for zwifting, then it might be ok. Even better if you're saving so much cash or have the parts to change the groupset at some point when/if it causes any issue.

Might need a bit of Tacx Neo DIY repair. Getting a noise which I thought could be chain or BB, not constant so I’m ruling out a small bearing, I waxed the chain and rode the bike outside on Sunday and didn’t notice it.

Mine isn’t as bad as this video but I think it’s the same fault. Will change bikes over on the trainer to eliminate that completely which should point at the trainer.

Mine is a fairly early Neo 1, with a later freehub fitted (the Tacx hub not the Edco).

https://tacxfaqx.com/knowledge-base/grunting-whump-whump-sound/
Hi mate, I had that noise, or a similar which was the inner race moving on the 'axle'. It wasn't as much of a 'whump whump' as that - more a constant 'groaning' almost like a bearing noise. But I could get mine to whump like that by cranking it hard (when already spinning it easy) then easing/stopping (like a sprint and sudden freewheel). With my hand on the frame/cranks doing it could 'feel' it coming through like a vibration. Less noticeable when sat on it.

Although I diagnosed mine and changed mine to the ReAxle and it made some difference, in doing so found mine was missing any rubber 'o-rings' which sit behind that inner race against the Neo and aid to stop it spinning. I bought some (couple of quid for a packet of them) and fitted 2, it made a massive difference. You'll need a Neo disk removal tool to do this, I can find links to where I got my o-rings if you want?

ReAxle is recommended if you have any 'knocking' or movement of your Neo axle on the OG, they're prone to it. I was able to get my magnets (in the disc) to rub the inner coils (in the Neo) when sprinting hard, or just rocking harder side to side. BE VERY CAREFUL testing this. As without my ReAxle fitted, this is how I knocked magnets off inside my disk and pretty much killed my Neo. It's on it's way back to me now after several months, can't recall if I've shared what I've been through with it on here? Happy to share if needs be - but basically killed the thing and it's needed new disk, board and stator to fix it from another Neo. It was very close to being a 20kg door stop.

I'm getting creaking on my bike when I'm on the turbo trainer that I don't get when I'm out on the road. I can't work out if it's the bike or the trainer but it being a carbon bike has me a bit worried.

anything I should be checking? I've made sure that the thru axle isn't tightened too much or too loose. It almost sounds like it's the bottom bracket but I only have started hearing it when on the turbo trainer. It could potentially be the feet of the trainer but I'm unsure. I've seated and reseated the bike many times through sheer paranoia that I've cracked the frame but there is nothing visible and it only makes that noise on the trainer.

it's on carpet so I can't tell if it's because the trainer isn't on firm ground but unsure what the noise could be coming from :confused:
Check everything! There is much more 'pressure' through focal points on the bike/frame/components with it fixed in place on a stationary trainer (as Andy said). Far more 'movement' to take that pressure out when out on the road.

I had what I thought and sounded like grit in my BB. Changed it. Nope. Thought it was the bars, stripped and regreased/carbon grip. Nope. After all that doing a full strip and clean of the drivechain outside in the sunlight noticed a fracture/split in the alu frame around the seatpost/headtube. A known 'pressure point' and weakness on the frame I was using (Giant Defy) as there's so much flex built into the seatpost and we all know Aluminium fatigues with flexing.

This is what I thought tbh. When on road, any movements you make, any movement by the frame isn't really being opposed by anything, it just moves... on a trainer it's anchored to something, so when the frame is being pressured somewhere, there is going to be force/torque applied through it and possible creaks and groans. This is also the reason it could all go wrong, of course.
All spot on and exactly why many brands didn't originally warranty frames when on trainers. Thankfully that's changed now. But that's not saying bike frame design has improved to stop it - just backlash from consumers I guess! Also frames on trainers are exposed to far less 'outside' forces they likely have similar lifetimes even with the increased wear from trainers.

I think it's H for hud? I know it's G for the graph at the bottom of the screen.
Yup H for hud on/off. Think there's an option tucked away somewhere too.

The 'Oh my Crit' series went to no-hud (as there's an event toggle for it) at one point and people loved it. Try it out/hunt some events down mate - you'll likely really enjoy it as I know you enjoy Crits anyway. When it's an event like that EVERYONE has it turned off!

I "won" the bling-bling Lightweight wheels at the top of the Alpe on Sunday morning :cool:

I also got the new Zwift home screen update which is a big improvement as you can now get into your garage without needing to be riding:

https://zwiftinsider.com/sneak-peek-homescreen/
Congrats on the wheels! Really need to get them myself, have not ridden the Alpe enough times. Think I've done it 6 or 7 times and most people seem to get them in a dozen or less ascents.

I'd not seen the homescreen, cool, just hope it makes things as quick/quicker and not any slower.

It now looks almost exactly how RGT have done it all along :cry:;):rolleyes:
 
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Soldato
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Wigan
Can you recommend anyone to send it to for service or a website which sells the tools/has a guide Roady? Maybe a summer job to remove, check the bearings add in the O rings and put back.

Noise gone after removal cleaning and reassembly of the crankset, a little wet in there. New headset bearings on their way as mine are worn and have corrosion from sweat/water.

Just needs a good spring overhaul!

I did an Evo CC race tonight, I think maybe Europe hour has changed as there were a lot of different faces. My legs didn’t feel so good, a workout on Tuesday which finished with max sprint efforts where I was doing 1000w each time really nuked them.

Anyway I’m fit enough to hang in the front group of B, but oh my, every acceleration and uphill I was hanging on the back, dieseling my way to keep on! More aggressive than normal with a slow then fast pace and some attacks going in. Made it to the finish for the sprint and despite not being too peaky got 11th from a group of 25. My power dropped right off after 10 seconds or I’d have maybe been close to 5th, but a jump by 13 in overall points shows it was a higher class field and a solid finish.
 
Soldato
Joined
18 Oct 2002
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8,433
Location
Hereford
So far so good... But I wasn't wrong about it being brutal! :D :rolleyes: :cry:
https://www.strava.com/activities/6815769667 Stage 1 iTT - 4th in Class
https://www.strava.com/activities/6816338572 Stage 2 Race - 7th in Class
https://www.strava.com/activities/6829663064 Stage 3 Race - 12th in Class
https://www.strava.com/activities/6834800959 Stage 4 TTT - 8th
Stage 5 skipped
https://www.strava.com/activities/6848792308 Stage 6 Race - 1st in Class
https://www.strava.com/activities/6852349983 Stage 7 Race - 6th in Class
https://www.strava.com/activities/6866117336 Stage 8 TTT - 3rd

Just 4 stages left. I'm not riding todays (Yorkshire) then Fridays is an iTT twice up Bologna. Always enjoy that one and going to likely skip Thursday nights WTRL TTT to be a bit fresher for it! Saturdays is going to be brutal The Pretzel but Sundays is around Champs-Élysées and have heard/seen rumours will be ridden like the final of the TdF. So in my mind that is an 'easy' roll around for a few laps, then sprints the final couple - but we'll see! ;)

Well I continued my performances throughout the series:
Stage 9 skipped
https://www.strava.com/activities/6881737196 Stage 10 iTT - 5th in Class
https://www.strava.com/activities/6884121384 Stage 11 Race - 2nd in Class
https://www.strava.com/activities/6892418326 Stage 12 Race - 1st in Class

Team finished well in our table (EMEA B2) from fighting the first week over 5th/6th to actually finish in 4th. Our main competition getting pipped in the last race by 6th so actually knocked down even further with us cementing 4th spot over 40 points up. They lost 5th place by 1 point which is crazy after 12 stages! Top of our league 1st and 2nd less than 10 points apart with 3rd only 20 points in front. A few extra riders, or the 'bad' TTT in the first week we might have podiumed.

High amount of fatigue as expected, but I actually did better than I expected able to constantly perform, the couple of rides I missed where due mostly to timings rather than feeling I 'wasn't able to'. There was a last minute one on the 18th where we lost a couple of riders and I hadn't intended on riding. I nearly last minute jumped in but couldn't just swing it with kiddo bedtime and such. If I'd had an extra 15 mins may have been able to! So all in all really happy with the result, fantastic team as always and a few real stars found. A pleasure to lead, but also the legs to 'lead from the front' was superb!

Can you recommend anyone to send it to for service or a website which sells the tools/has a guide Roady? Maybe a summer job to remove, check the bearings add in the O rings and put back.

Noise gone after removal cleaning and reassembly of the crankset, a little wet in there. New headset bearings on their way as mine are worn and have corrosion from sweat/water.

Just needs a good spring overhaul!
Actually a Tacx video:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_0Jyr7_tEXY

Good guide and technique, once you've done it once you'll realise how easy it is. Less than a 30 min job. Only things I would add are - buy the extractor tool on the 'bay (wonder what happened to the guy I got mine from, he was in Ukraine!) rather than trying to find the official Tacx one for 3X the price. The 'bay ones are 3D printed and not as strong, so plastic is brittle, but I probably did 8-10 removals with mine before it broke and the stresses where it broke where around the holes where I'd tightened it too much. The Garmin/Tacx one is injection moulded so stronger, but not worth it unless you're planning on doing a bunch of maintenance (or find yourself doing it). So when fitting it don't tighten it onto the disk too much as you'll stress it. Doesn't need to be tight, finger tight is enough. The big 24mm ratchet you see him use in the video, all that is doing is screwing the big bolt against the Neo axle to move the disk outwards. The disk itself is held on by the magnets, they're so strong they will pull the disk back on so damn hard people have injured themselves, so be careful. Not sure anyone's lost a finger but it would be easy to do!

But good info from here on Tacxfaq (Drew):
https://tacxfaqx.com/knowledge-base/disc-squeaking-sound/
https://tacxfaqx.com/knowledge-base/neo-disc-scrapes-and-halts/

Although both not directly your problem, both related (if it's the exact same as mine) with same/similar fixes.

These are the o-rings I got: https://simplybearings.co.uk/shop/p...e-NITRILE-70-Rubber-O-Rings/product_info.html

Actually ordered a pack of 10, fitted 1 and didn't make much difference. It also got a bit chewed. Fitted 2 and they fixed my issues.

Only other thing I would note - in the Tacx video they talk about checking the magnets, don't go pressing and prodding them. The glue/fixing stuff isn't that strong (weirdly) and they come off very easily. There is a plastic 'carrier'/spacer in all the newer Neo's (but not the early OG) to stop them moving, without it in place it is easy to dislodge a magnet, they're so strong and brittle they will smash into each other and break! They're a custom size/thickness (maybe even magnetism?) so you cannot buy 'spares'. The previous fix I had with mine (look for The Trainer Doctor) he fitted a substitute in mine and we thought it wouldn't have a big difference to accuracy, but we just couldn't get the disk to spin clearly of the coils after removing and refitting all the magnets and replacing 1 of them. So where never actually able to test the accuracy of the repair!

The big outer bearing on the disk is not one to change, but while you have it off pop and check the seal on the other (smaller) one. That one is one you can change yourself, but getting it out is tricky as you have to remove the freehub ratchet to do it and needs a special tool to do it. I have one if you want to go down that route, although buying the 'bearing kit' for the Neo is probably a better option (has the centre part of the disk, ratchet and both bearings already fitted). But inspect it and maybe throw some grease in it if it feels good (it should)! :)

https://tacxfaqx.com/knowledge-base/bearings-for-all-models-of-neo/

But if you do really want someone to do it for you, Rich Webb 'The Trainer Doctor' is the go to. You'll find him all over the Neo Owners group on Facebook (which is huge and has lots of info in) as he is an electronics engineer and able to Fix totally fried circuit boards. He's not cheap and generally 1 to use for extensive repairs on a terminal Neo and not something like the above. But he'd easily do it (likely cost 150+parts).
 
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Soldato
Joined
14 Jul 2004
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Melbourne , Oz.
First ride post holiday and post covid this morning. Did cat B TDZ stage 1 catch up. Went ok, my 20 min best was 15w below my best 20 min so not too bad. Felt hard though, lungs burning a bit!

Don't know if it was an update or just my Apple TV set up but had to log into Zwift as if I had never used it before. My all time stats were still there (time and distance) however stats like best 5 secs, 1 min, 20 min have been reset, had to look back on an old photo as it appeared my post covid ride was my best one to date :confused:
 
Tea Drinker
Don
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13 Apr 2010
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Sunny Sussex
@Roady

found one yay, advertised needing front mech, cables and a chain. The mech was seized so liberal wd40 got it moving. Chain I had one just replaced as it was too short for new rear mech and cables were just not moving because the mech was seized.

Power saddle as my crux and it’s a winner :p just got to muck about with seat position.

wE8CluL.jpg

I can get my crux back on the road now
 
Associate
Joined
5 Apr 2004
Posts
1,195
Been interested in having a dedicated Zwift setup for a while instead of using Samsung dex on my s21 ultra.

Managed to get a gtx 1070 for £100 off Facebook marketplace. So I bought a 12400f and MSI pro to go alongside it... Probably overkill cpu wise but I justified it as having another pc that the kids can use.

I realise this wasn't a sensible upgrade.
 
Soldato
Joined
22 May 2003
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10,855
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Wigan
The 12 series CPU are absolutely spot on for Zwift, you only need the i3 version for maximum FPS.

With a 1070 you should be able to run maximum everything with good FPS in all worlds including in bunches.

Don’t be tempted into overclocking as it will likely lead to Zwift crashing even if it’s an otherwise stable system.
 
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