They're probably 25k and 250k, these are typical values for guitar stuff
IMO it's more common to read a bit lower rather than a bit higher. On new pots at least.
Usually I cut to the reputable supply chain - if I’m ordering from the US then Mouser, Digikey and Farnell. I look for local delivery options too (most warn or allow filtering for UK stock fulfilment). That way you have a better fake avoidance. Last thing you want is to have a fake item short at higher voltage (for example the JCM800 has a cap between the 270Vdc first tube output and the input jack for the clean channel!! Just hope that never fails!) or worse have to order again.
You’ll need to check if they are linear or logarithmic. Most amp gear has regular carbon potentiometers. No need for the plastic low noise or ceramic. Lastly you want to check the isolation voltages and wattage - not so much of a problem as your 2195 has 40Vdc rails.
Personal choice are CTS or Bourne. I find ALPS fragile and get noisy. I had a look and that 1K pot looks like an adjust but like all good designs there’s not much current through it from cursory look. You may want a multi-turn trimmer if you find trimming it too sensitive.
As to values - I agree 25K and 250K would do and you may get 5 or 10 quantity discount. The 1K you want a 1K but a 2K would also work if you have one lying around.
As it’s from the 1970s you may want to check the electrolytic and the tantalum caps, if present. Check he capacitance and resistance. They should be close to your schematic and the DC resistance should be high.
degrading caps can result in all sorts of noise issues.
Lastly measure all the resistors - some carbon comp resistors absorb moisture over time and they rise in resistance over time that can cause them to fail.
You can clean up amps with metal film/wirewound but if you want the 1970s amp sound stick with the direct type of resistor.
Thanks guys, really helpful replies and some more avenues to investigate, much appreciated