***The Official Guitar Thread***

They're probably 25k and 250k, these are typical values for guitar stuff :)

IMO it's more common to read a bit lower rather than a bit higher. On new pots at least.
Usually I cut to the reputable supply chain - if I’m ordering from the US then Mouser, Digikey and Farnell. I look for local delivery options too (most warn or allow filtering for UK stock fulfilment). That way you have a better fake avoidance. Last thing you want is to have a fake item short at higher voltage (for example the JCM800 has a cap between the 270Vdc first tube output and the input jack for the clean channel!! Just hope that never fails!) or worse have to order again.

You’ll need to check if they are linear or logarithmic. Most amp gear has regular carbon potentiometers. No need for the plastic low noise or ceramic. Lastly you want to check the isolation voltages and wattage - not so much of a problem as your 2195 has 40Vdc rails.
Personal choice are CTS or Bourne. I find ALPS fragile and get noisy. I had a look and that 1K pot looks like an adjust but like all good designs there’s not much current through it from cursory look. You may want a multi-turn trimmer if you find trimming it too sensitive.

As to values - I agree 25K and 250K would do and you may get 5 or 10 quantity discount. The 1K you want a 1K but a 2K would also work if you have one lying around.

As it’s from the 1970s you may want to check the electrolytic and the tantalum caps, if present. Check he capacitance and resistance. They should be close to your schematic and the DC resistance should be high.
degrading caps can result in all sorts of noise issues.
Lastly measure all the resistors - some carbon comp resistors absorb moisture over time and they rise in resistance over time that can cause them to fail.
You can clean up amps with metal film/wirewound but if you want the 1970s amp sound stick with the direct type of resistor.

Thanks guys, really helpful replies and some more avenues to investigate, much appreciated :)
 
That is a very dangerous shop!

In other news, I’ve been planning the combo amp which is loosely based on a princeton reverb but the internal volume has been resized to cope with a 12” speaker.

Current dimensions will be (approx): 27”W 18.8”H 10”D which gives a good 26”x16”x9.88” volume for the alnico to breath. The cab will be an open back (partially closed but more than enough to not act like a rear port).
I’m going to use a pre-made princeton reverb chassis case with wood to pad out the difference.
I think this is realistically the smallest a 12” alnico could fit without being too boxed in. The dimensions are golden ratio, and I will mount the speaker slightly off centre to continue avoiding standing waves (probably by 3.6x2.2cm from the the centre point towards the bottom right corner).

The cab will also give space for a reverb or a SS class A amp at a later date (or replacing the power section to use big tubes :))
I should clarify - the cab and chassis is princeton.. but the circuit is marshall JCM800 front end but instead of the power section being 12ax7->el34 pentodes (55W) it will be 12at7->ef80 pentodes (2W) so not the fender sound. Also i will be fitting provision for a fender 6G15 circuit in it for reverb :) for that distortion with reverb sound :cool: \m/ (given this will not be loud enough to reverb large rooms).
 
I should clarify - the cab and chassis is princeton.. but the circuit is marshall JCM800 front end but instead of the power section being 12ax7->el34 pentodes (55W) it will be 12at7->ef80 pentodes (2W) so not the fender sound. Also i will be fitting provision for a fender 6G15 circuit in it for reverb :) for that distortion with reverb sound :cool: \m/ (given this will not be loud enough to reverb large rooms).
Oooh the race is on! I shelved my JCM800 Micro project over a year ago now, but once the house move is finished...

(you'll win :P )
 
Last edited:
probably a bit late to the party re pickups.

I have the SSL1s (cali set) in one guitar and they sound great. Love them. I have a full 59 humbucker in another guitar and it is ok, doesn't sound too bad and taps well to SC but I wouldn't call it a strat sound. If that is your aim one of their other SC humbucker options might be more to your liking. You also have the half-way option of one of their tapped SC for two different output levels while staying SC.
 
I feel dirty.

Just been looking at carbon comp resistors. @LuckyBenski if you want carbon comp resistors for the authentic noisy marshall sound then you’d better get your skates on. It seems mouser’s stock is “verify status with factory” or “end of life”. I knew allen bradley resistors were NOS and no new production but it seems the larger companies are ending stock.. so that means gambling HV resistors on ebay.. :( so I think this may end up full on MF low noise marshall :/

Digikey = larger stock but that is not being restocked.
Farnell = limited (only 3 in stock I need at 350V)!
Mouser = nope.

So it looks like it’s metal foil for me.. and put a couple of noisy carbon vomp/carbon film in the vital spots.

I’m torn with the neck pickup - simply forgoing the humbucking and just going for a higher output single coil.
 
Last edited:
I feel dirty.

Just been looking at carbon comp resistors. @LuckyBenski if you want carbon comp resistors for the authentic noisy marshall sound then you’d better get your skates on. It seems mouser’s stock is “verify status with factory” or “end of life”. I knew allen bradley resistors were NOS and no new production but it seems the larger companies are ending stock.. so that means gambling HV resistors on ebay.. :( so I think this may end up full on MF low noise marshall :/

Digikey = larger stock but that is not being restocked.
Farnell = limited (only 3 in stock I need at 350V)!
Mouser = nope.

So it looks like it’s metal foil for me.. and put a couple of noisy carbon vomp/carbon film in the vital spots.

I’m torn with the neck pickup - simply forgoing the humbucking and just going for a higher output single coil.
That does ring a bell! I sourced all the parts when I planned out my circuit, and used carbon comp for the input/preamp bits. Think I literally had to order 1s and 2s of the values I needed.
 
It’s really irratating - all the speakers I like are 100dB/watt. So that efficiency = blinking loud (so 2W would be 103dB) at approx 8V. 85dB would be about 1Vrms (1.414Vpeak).
To get preamp distortion is easy, to get power amp distortion, that’s going to need the amp running at higher volume. I can’t put a 16R resistor in parallel with a 16R speaker as this will have an unknown frequency response (the resistor will have varying impedance over frequency so that will change the impedance of the speaker.. which then affects the speaker frequency response).

The celestion G12H greenback 75hz resonance has an open tone, same with the blue and cream alnicos (all three are 100dB) but everything else seems to push mids or lead highs but then clamp the highest frequencies that make it sound open.

I know that carbon comp resistors absorb moisture over time - the seal for them is super important. The square edge types aren’t as reliable over time as the rounded edge allen bradley. However you’re then faced with the choice of NOS allen bradley (old hence already part way through it’a life time) vs newer end-of-stock which are unproven. I may as well get some allen bradley then :) (I’m tempted to make a repair time capsule of replacement AB with a desiccating sachet to make a moisture low pod). Perhaps a cigar metal container with a seal). That way in 15 years time it’s got some legs. Perhaps larger and add a set of replacement tubes too.. just in case :)

I think everything over the next 10-15 years will become online - so the days of amps other than the digital amp driving the output of the modelling amps & mixing setup will cause tube amps to disappear.
 
Last edited:
It’s really irratating - all the speakers I like are 100dB/watt. So that efficiency = blinking loud (so 2W would be 103dB) at approx 8V. 85dB would be about 1Vrms (1.414Vpeak).
To get preamp distortion is easy, to get power amp distortion, that’s going to need the amp running at higher volume. I can’t put a 16R resistor in parallel with a 16R speaker as this will have an unknown frequency response (the resistor will have varying impedance over frequency so that will change the impedance of the speaker.. which then affects the speaker frequency response).

The celestion G12H greenback 75hz resonance has an open tone, same with the blue and cream alnicos (all three are 100dB) but everything else seems to push mids or lead highs but then clamp the highest frequencies that make it sound open.

I know that carbon comp resistors absorb moisture over time - the seal for them is super important. The square edge types aren’t as reliable over time as the rounded edge allen bradley. However you’re then faced with the choice of NOS allen bradley (old hence already part way through it’a life time) vs newer end-of-stock which are unproven. I may as well get some allen bradley then :) (I’m tempted to make a repair time capsule of replacement AB with a desiccating sachet to make a moisture low pod). Perhaps a cigar metal container with a seal). That way in 15 years time it’s got some legs. Perhaps larger and add a set of replacement tubes too.. just in case :)

I think everything over the next 10-15 years will become online - so the days of amps other than the digital amp driving the output of the modelling amps & mixing setup will cause tube amps to disappear.
people have been predicting the death of tube amps for decades now. They'll still be with us.
 
Sometimes I just think I should hang my stuff up and give up. Kids are playing better than me:

one of her videos came up on my recommended on Youtube the other day, it's title was 'NEW CHAPTER of my life' - I was just thinking you're only like 8! :p

 
one of her videos came up on my recommended on Youtube the other day, it's title was 'NEW CHAPTER of my life' - I was just thinking you're only like 8! :p

This bass intrigues me. Called a child's bass, with a 25.5" scale length that makes it equivalent to my electric. Does that make it a good option for jumping between instruments or is the point of bass to have that long scale lenth (and less span/finger reach) to make you walk up the board than try to do anything too fancy?
 
This bass intrigues me. Called a child's bass, with a 25.5" scale length that makes it equivalent to my electric. Does that make it a good option for jumping between instruments or is the point of bass to have that long scale lenth (and less span/finger reach) to make you walk up the board than try to do anything too fancy?
The adult version is probably marketed as a 'travel bass'.

Not sure about the concept of cross learning on a smaller bass. To get the same scale of notes you need lower tension, which means the fretboard positions change and the action of the fret board would probably need to rise (wobblier string due to lower tension) or suffer buzz. You'll then end up relearning on the larger scales anyway.
 
The adult version is probably marketed as a 'travel bass'.

Not sure about the concept of cross learning on a smaller bass. To get the same scale of notes you need lower tension, which means the fretboard positions change and the action of the fret board would probably need to rise (wobblier string due to lower tension) or suffer buzz. You'll then end up relearning on the larger scales anyway.
but doesn't the string gauge compensate? You just use heavier strings - it's still using bass strings.

edit: these are the gauges: G-0.045", D-0.065", A-0.08", E-0.1" which is fairly akin to a standard bass. Weird.
 
Last edited:
but doesn't the string gauge compensate? You just use heavier strings - it's still using bass strings.
Could work, but tends not to be the case. You'd need the B from a 5 string set for the E, etc. So it'd be much heavier strings.

25.5" is 3 quarters of 34" so that's where the 5th fret lies. Hence the calculation of, B string 5th fret = low E.
 
Last edited:
Hello, my name's Andrew, and today... today I bought a ukulele. I'm sorry, it won't happen again.

I didn't want to buy a ukulele, but I felt I ought to know how to play one adequately. However, that tinny, trebly sound is getting on my wick already. My guitarlele's tuned down a tone to make it more of a useful mini-guitar. But tuning down the uke would defeat the purpose of familiarising myself with it. So..

So at least it's a Stagg electric, so I can play it through my Zoom effects box. That helps make it sound more civilised.

Right, off to practice Twinkle, Twinkle!
 
you probably know this... the chord shapes on ukulele standard tuning are the same as the shapes on the guitars D G B e strings but transposed up 3 tones/steps, the high G changes (surely) the inversion but it's late and I don't have a ukelele to hear the result...

I've had the same 'need to learn' with harmonica and violin, RIP neighbours :p
 
Hello, my name's Andrew, and today... today I bought a ukulele. I'm sorry, it won't happen again.

I didn't want to buy a ukulele, but I felt I ought to know how to play one adequately. However, that tinny, trebly sound is getting on my wick already. My guitarlele's tuned down a tone to make it more of a useful mini-guitar. But tuning down the uke would defeat the purpose of familiarising myself with it. So..

So at least it's a Stagg electric, so I can play it through my Zoom effects box. That helps make it sound more civilised.

Right, off to practice Twinkle, Twinkle!


 
Back
Top Bottom