***The Official Manly Shaving Thread***

LuckyBenski said:
Got given an Edwin Jagger for my birthday last week and it was just... Beautiful. So natural to use, like an extension of my own hand. So I'd recommend spending ~£20+ to start. All the advice on here is great.
Click to expand...

But which Edwin Jagger?

Mind you, all the Jagger DEs use the same head - and it's the Muehli Closed comb head - the R89.

You can buy the head alone and use whatever handle you like.

https://connaughtshaving.com/safetyrazors.html

They also make an open comb head, the R41, that Jagger does not use. (See link above

The R89 head is efficient but forgiving. The R41 is about the most aggressive production razor available.

I have a tough white beard and use an R41 with a Feather Blade. I have a Future Clone which is nearly as aggressive if opened right out, but I don't prefer it. If I have to shave on consecutive days (not often now I have retired) I use a vintage Gillette Sim Adjustable opened up to 9. It's nearly as efficient as the R41 but not so hard on the face for daily use.

https://www.executive-shaving.co.uk/search/+Slim+adjustable

But I didn't pay anything like that for mine!

I write because if someone is using a Futur (or Clone) and an R89 head, they are using very different machines.

The comparison should be between the Futur (or clone) and the R41 head.

But the dark horse hiding in the catalogue is the Merkur Progress in any of its three variants

https://connaughtshaving.com/merkur.html

Adjustable with a classically shaped head.

---

And I should note that, using the most aggressive combination of DE razor and blade I might nick myself once a year.

If it happens often your technique needs improvement.
 
Last edited:
Has anyone used King of Shaves gel? I love the stuff with Cartridge razors but wondered if it'd work with a DE razor.
 
There is no reason why it should not work, but generally mixing the technologies is not reckoned a good idea by DE shavers..

A modern shave gel works as an oily lubricant. Some would say if you are using such a gel you are not wet shaving at all. The oil is keeping the wetness away from the face!

The soap lather (or traditional cream) hydrates the hairs and softens them for the pass of the blade. The use of a brush to work up the lather, then work it into the beard is part of the whole process.

For half my life (I'm 70), after after taking to cartridge razors, I still used a brush and soap, having tried aerosols and other stuff. In the end I decided the cartridges were too expensive and were not actually cutting my coarse white beard and I returned to proper DE shaving.

All I can say is try a DE razor with your favourite gel, but give a traditional lather a try for a serious comparison. That means using a brush and learning to lather correctly. You would probably need to try for quite few weeks. Maybe use a cream, which works up more easily and is closer to a gel, even if it works quite differently.

The Palmolive cream in the green tube at Boots is very acceptable and cheap. This is the next step up, and worth it:

https://connaughtshaving.com/tayscb.html

I use the Sandalwood, which is the most popular.

We are all different - do what works for you.
 
Thanks for that. I get an ok shave with the MACH stuff, as I've got older though I've got a lot of grey hairs in my beard which seem prone to being ingrown, especially on my cheeks. While I can sort them out with some Tend Skin I'd like to see how much a DE would reduce it. I have a really full beard and my face gets very sore, especially around the top lip area, so I'm wary of using anything that'll make it worse.
 
[FnG]magnolia said:
Proper face prep and good soap or cream (rather than aerosol can gel) plus a DE razor should make a substantial difference to ingrown hairs, sore face, irritation etc.
Click to expand...

THIS

I always follow these steps as they just 'work' for me.

- A good cleansing face or beard wash helps moisturise the skin before the shave.
- Run the tips of your fingers across your face. Get a feel for the hair growth and map out which direction your hairs grow in. Your hand will glide over the hairs going with the same direction and your hand will feel some resistance in the direction against the growth. (General rule of thumb is to always shave with the growth and across it but never against it - unless your face is like leather)
- Run hot water over a towel, wring out and apply to the face a couple of times to open up the pores in your skin which makes the hairs stand up a bit.
- Mix up a good lather (TOBS, Proraso, Fine, Razorock to name but a few) either on your wet face with a good quality shaving brush such as a Badger (soft) or Boar (stiff) or mix in a shaving mug and then apply. (Personally I prefer the stiff Boar bristles as these tend to give an exfoliating feeling) Alternatively work a barber quality shave gel such as Elegance Plus in with the tips of your fingers. Elegance Plus is a very protective gel and works wonders.
- Run your razor under warm water to heat the metal blade - sounds odd but heating the blade will help it 'cut like a hot knife through butter' as the blade is effectively being tempered.
- Shave with the growth at a 30 degree angle and try not to go over the same area more than once or twice. If you still haven't the desired closeness, re-lather and shave across the grain.
- Wash away any remaining suds on your face with cold water and apply a Alum Shaving block to the face to seal up any minor nicks or abrasions. You'll feel a stinging if you've gone over an area too aggressively. Rinse again with cold water.
- Rinse your razor under cold water to effectively quench the blade and restore its hardness.
- Apply your choice of post shave face protection be it balm/aftershave/lotion etc.

I use a DE89 and Feather blades and with the above I am getting between 5 - 8 shaves with a single Feather.

Shawrey
 
That's really helpful, thanks. So I went a bought a few bits from one of the shops linked in the first post. Went for the Edwin Jagger DE89L (came with free bluebeard blades), and got some bluebeard face balm and cream samples. This should give me a start and if I like it I can invest in better creams etc later on.
 
There has been some useful advice on face prep.

I almost always shave after a shower when I warm my face and hydrate my beard in the shower, then I rub on some very ordinary hair conditioner which I have warmed in my hands before applying. After I shave with a proper lather as hot as I can bear.

After I rinse with cold water and rub around with an alum block then I apply a fairly rich cream. It goes onto a damp face more easily. Many say alcohol based after shaves are very bad for the skin.

(https://www.amazon.co.uk/ARKO-MEN-C...1537878725&sr=8-3&keywords=arko+classic+cream

Cheap. Big 300ml tub. No nonsense and very good)

A single blade razor should be better if you have ingrowing problems.

The antiseptic and astringent properties of the alum could help - note that alum curdles some creams.

If you beard is very full and coarse you may like to try and open comb razor when you have mastered the easier R89.
 
Arcane said:
That's really helpful, thanks. So I went a bought a few bits from one of the shops linked in the first post. Went for the Edwin Jagger DE89L (came with free bluebeard blades), and got some bluebeard face balm and cream samples. This should give me a start and if I like it I can invest in better creams etc later on.
Click to expand...
 
LuckyBenski said:
Excellent advice across the board but I really struggle to believe sub-100°C temperatures can temper steel.
Click to expand...

Labarum said:
Agreed!
Click to expand...

No - I know that hot water is no-where near hot enough as its several hundred degrees to get steel even remotely glowing but based on my experience a hot blade seems to be a much easier shave hence the 'tempering' effect I mention. It just feels like the edge of the blade is different and less 'tuggy'.

It could be a complete placebo effect but I've read others with similar experiences.

Shawrey
 
Labarum said:
But you MUST sample a range of blades. A different blade can make an enormous difference, and there is no rhyme or reason to it. What suits one man does not suit another.

Buy a sample pack

https://connaughtshaving.com/samplepack.html
Click to expand...


Indeed - as someone relatively new to DE shaving, buying a selection was the best thing I did. Whilst some of the "beginner friendly" blades (Derby/Astra) work for most people, I struggled with them and found a sharper blade (Personna) was much better, and even "unforgiving" blades like Feathers were more usable.

As your technique improves however, you can go back and try and remaining blades you have, as you may find some of them work better with more experience.
 
Shawreyboy said:
a hot blade seems to be a much easier shave
Click to expand...

Well yes, I too warm the razor before shaving. You want your skin to be as warm and relaxed as possible when shaving - applying a cold razor head rather defeats that.

When done I rinse the razor in hot water as it will remove soapy residue more easily, but I rinse my face in cold water when finished to close the pores.

A word like "temper" is better avoided as it has a technical meaning.
 
Armageus said:
Indeed - as someone relatively new to DE shaving, buying a selection was the best thing I did. Whilst some of the "beginner friendly" blades (Derby/Astra) work for most people, I struggled with them and found a sharper blade (Personna) was much better, and even "unforgiving" blades like Feathers were more usable.

As your technique improves however, you can go back and try and remaining blades you have, as you may find some of them work better with more experience.
Click to expand...

Agreed. If the beard is tough the milder blades will tear rather than slice - and tearing is painful!

---

Since an R89 with handle is already owned an R41 head can be used with it and that may be bought separately for <£20

https://connaughtshaving.com/r41head.html

BUT NOT until the technique has been mastered with the more forgiving R89.

As with blades, a more aggressive razor head geometry can be kinder to a face that owns a wiry beard.
 
On the topic of shaving cream/soaps, having used Palmolive sticks for about a year before trying ToOBS, I would recommend going straight for the latter.

Sure the Palmolive is great value, but depending on how often you shave, a full puck of ToOBS can last half a year easy. I get two off my brother for Christmas and I'm sorted for the year. Never have I used it without appreciating the amazing scent, and it makes a beautiful lather every single time. I couldn't rate it higher.
 
Yes, the Palmolive Cream is OK and has the advantage of being available anywhere there is a Boots, but the better quality products can be no more expensive because they go further.

Every man should choose what pleases him, and what works for him.
 
Had a clean shave today, first time in 12 years.

My old trimmer is blunt and my newer trimmer is crap so kept using my old trimmer but today I gave up on my old one and used the newer and a grade 2 on it compared to my old is more like grade -2. It cut so close I thought I may as well take the whole lot off.
 
I am currently waiting for all my kit to arrive which is the Edwin Jagger DE89 and lathering bowl (bowl has arrived), ToBS Sandlewood shaving cream (2 tubs of 150ml for £18) and a new badger brush (also Edwin Jagger). Fairly expensive starter set but from I can tell it should be pretty good and should last me the rest of my life (except for buying blades and shaving cream).

Stoner81.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top Bottom