The hotspot was 98c iirc, I don't believe the VRMS were that hot. I'll have a look later.
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The RX Vega 64 Owners Thread
- Thread starter Kaapstad
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The hotspot was 98c iirc, I don't believe the VRMS were that hot. I'll have a look later.
Nice thank you. So judging by the fact that you have LC and my CPU and XMP disabled it appears I'm not doing to bad so far eh? Going to try the 1100 HBM as others above have stated. Other than that can anyone suggest anything? Also those are older benches does VEGA perform better on the older drivers? Of course I'm only concerned with gaming FPS. Oh and what does the green highlight beside some of your numbers mean? Sorry very new to all this.
So 1100 HBM netted me a few FPS http://www.3dmark.com/fs/18295750 I'm guessing this would also be in games as well? I play 1440p 144Hz though. Will have to stress test to see if it holds but 3 time spy runs and 3 Firestrike normal and no crashes no artifacts so far.
Edit: Nvm it hard locked my system before I could even click the stress test button in 3dmark sadly.
Edit2: Stress test passed. https://www.3dmark.com/3dm/33484654 Guess I'll try 1100 HBM and up the voltage a bit next? Here's a log file from my stress test look ok to everyone? https://www.dropbox.com/s/9waxffiqs1eavo2/VEGA 64 Stress Test Log File #1.CSV?dl=0 Thanks a million everyone I'd be lost without online forums^^
Edit 3: Now my screen did that cycle through display options thing it used to do and I look down and the AMD drivers crashed. It hasn't been doing this lately... guess it has to be the HBM? Or just a fluke and AMD's issue? Starting to feel like I'll never win this battle. It hasn't done this all week until literally just now.
Edit 4: Oof. Just realized I had Relive on for all tests and benchmarks and Chill... *Facepalm*
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Run heaven in the background, so you can see what effect your changes are making to clock speed, and it will crash if you do something your card can't handle.
Push the power slider to +50% if you haven't already.
Most memory will seem to do 1100mhz, so try that first - dial it back a little if you get artifacts or it crashes - 1100/1000mv.
Try P7 @ 1632mhz/1100mv - click apply
If that's fine you can up your P6 too. Leave the rest for now.
If that's all working, move your P7 up - you'll see when you've gone too high.
Mine is happy at 1672/1100, P6 @ 1632.
I can get 1702 @1150mv.
You should able to get your card to run in the 1600's pretty much constantly.
Let us know how you get on.
Will do this after I get off work tomorrow for sure. Was playing Grid@4k and it just crashed right at the end of the race. It's odd because APEX Legends, FFXIV, RE2 Remake, Witcher 3, and a few others I can't recall atm have all been fine with my UV/OC. I def have to find something that is stable in every game and nets me safe temps as I have only the air blower version for now. Might consider adding my own water block if I think I could do it w/o f'ing something up lol. Yes power is up to +50% Thank you for the reply^^ Dumb question could it be HWmonitor messing with Radeon? It always seems to be running when I crash. Just thought about that. Hmmmm.
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Actually for the HBM voltage value set it to 1050mv if aiming for the best performance. I run 1100mv as it seemed to stabilise things when benching at higher voltages.
Normally I run 1750/1150 for core and 1100/1100 on HBM2.
However for air I used to run 1750/1050 for core and 1100/1050 on the HBM2. Both run 200% power limit as it just removes it as a performance limitation.
Also when gaming I always lock to P7 core and P3 HBM2 so it doesn't downclock causing stutters.
Normally I run 1750/1150 for core and 1100/1100 on HBM2.
However for air I used to run 1750/1050 for core and 1100/1050 on the HBM2. Both run 200% power limit as it just removes it as a performance limitation.
Also when gaming I always lock to P7 core and P3 HBM2 so it doesn't downclock causing stutters.
I also have a Strix V64. Stable at 1050/1100mV for P6/P and 1000/1000 HBM, can get up to 1050 hbm pretty stable but I’ve se b diminishing returns for FPS vs temp past about 1020. Doesn’t let me ramp up the clocks more than 2% before a crash. With that stable undervolt it runs games fairly consistently at 1550, would like to hit 1600. Let me know how you get on..
Soldato
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Yeah man run a stress test and they'll hit 106c, I don't consider these temps to be safe, anything about 90c in my book is screwed. RMA time man.
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Just use different settings for different games - doesn't take long to load a saved setting.
The powercolour card should be fine - no need for a waterblock.
My nitro+ is very quiet, undervolted.
Witcher 3, I've found 1632/1000mv is fine at 4k - I don't notice the difference in framerates between that and higher settings.
Soldato
3DMark FireStrike score - 17858
https://www.3dmark.com/fs/18299520
Wattman settings: https://ibb.co/3mJ234F
GPU-Z: https://ibb.co/8c3kd3x
https://www.3dmark.com/fs/18299520
Wattman settings: https://ibb.co/3mJ234F
GPU-Z: https://ibb.co/8c3kd3x
I'm running the newest drivers not the beta but the windows approved ones. 200% power is +50% in Wattman? And also what do you mean by "Also when gaming I always lock to P7 core and P3 HBM2 so it doesn't downclock causing stutters." How do I "lock" to P7 core. Again sorry I have never done anything like this and honestly wish I didn't have to. I can't wait until I find a 24/7 setting and I never have to touch anything again. And just to reiterate I don't care about artificial bench numbers I just want solid FPS across all games with no crashes, no throttles, and no temps I have to monitor. Was going to send this back for VII but the reviews so far are not great so that's a pass for sure.
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We use OverdriveNtool to undervolt / overclock and you can disable all the other pstates. I do this with great success for having a rock solid core clock in game.
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Something I'm finding, while my default performance bios seems to be borked, is that the power saver bios is giving more stability in underclocks.
Some else here said that.
If you haven't found your bios switch - it's the small, very difficult to see switch hidden on the side of the case end of your card.
Switching it to the left - back of the case, is power saver mode. (on the nitro+ it is anyway)
I can get 7011 in superposition 4k optimised, P7 @1722/1140
But performance sweet spots on mine are 1672/1100 or 1692/1100, which both give higher min fps of 42.5 - mem @ 1100/1000, in powersave bios.
I think @TrixX will have to post his screenshot, so you can see what he's doing in overdrivntool - your stable settings may not be as high as his.
You should be able to get stable settings, without throttling, in global wattman.
I'd report the Grid crash to AMD - probably a driver issue if the rest are running fine.
Btw, @Bailey @ OCUK CS has been excellent with my various problems. Big thanks to him
See my problem is I play many, many, many games. And always bounce around. That's why I'd like to find a 24/7 setting to default to when anything crashes on my "Tweak" profile that I will try to get dialed in for that extra performance. Like Grid for example @4k it was running 120+ Fps Ultra everything the entire time. Not needed at all for a racing game imo. So maybe I can find a lower clock stable setting for my older games where I don't need the boost and a UV/OC for some of the newer games and FPS I play online that need the extra FPS. I realize I could set up a bunch of different profiles but when you're talking about 2500+ games across all the darn platforms they have these days it gets a bit daunting and time consuming. With the problems I had with my first 2 cards plus all this time trying to tweak this one it's a bit frustrating. Add the fact that I'm a total noob to all of this and trying to learn on the fly as I go sometimes I just want to bang my head against a wall... be done with it... and get back to actually gaming. Hopefully I'll have more success when I get home here in an hour and give all this info a go. And as always thank you gentlemen for all the replies/advice/and comparative benchmarks/settings^^ I just hope I learn enough to pass it all along to the next guy having a hard go of it.
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Here's the image of how to lock to P7/P3. Click on the actual P State number and you can enable and disable P States.
Very cool. So which ones should I disable?<---- Nvm this question I read that wrong. So why is p4 circled what do I do with that one? And that will stop the stutters and down clocks? And of course leave a stable default setting or something similar for idle/non gaming correct? Thank you for the pic^^ Edit: Oh and this tool is good for 19.1.1?Here's the image of how to lock to P7/P3. Click on the actual P State number and you can enable and disable P States.
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Oh wait I see I am locking to p3 and p7 and disabling ALL the others. So if and when it down clocks it will only have p3 as it's option. Any drawbacks to this? And you also do it to the HBM it appears? Lock it to p3. Wow 1750 looks amazing. Grats on that^^ I'd be happy with 1650.
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@Jay540 Had a little play around and my new sweet spot is P7 1672/1050mv in powersave bios.
Gives mins of 43fps in 4k optimised (2 more than my highest settings) - I can push my mem to 1130 too.
I think Trixx has all the states disabled except for P7 in GPU and P3 in memory.
For games with stupidly high fps, you can enable frame rate target control in radeon settings - takes seconds to do - I set it at 60 fps as that's the highest my 4k monitor will go.
Enable chill as well.
Gives mins of 43fps in 4k optimised (2 more than my highest settings) - I can push my mem to 1130 too.
I think Trixx has all the states disabled except for P7 in GPU and P3 in memory.
For games with stupidly high fps, you can enable frame rate target control in radeon settings - takes seconds to do - I set it at 60 fps as that's the highest my 4k monitor will go.
Enable chill as well.
"I think Trixx has all the states disabled except for P7 in GPU and P3 in memory." Do you see any downside to locking it like that for a gaming profile? Why don't you use it?
is that RMA worthy?