The Tesla Thread

TheOracle said:
I thought you were supposed to charge an LFP to 100%

Not an issue for me, but if it's better to still go to 90% I'll do that
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You are so the BMS can calibrate but it’s still not a good idea to keep it pinned at 100% all the time. Tesla guidance is once per week but as above, what’s sensible really depends on how you use the car.
 
You can vary your down payment significantly when using their finance but outside of the initial deposit, the balancing payments are by bank transfer, not card payments.

There is a finance calculator on their website you can use.
 
Don’t forget the daily text message reminders to the recent LFP owners telling them to charge to 100% to save that special new lithium 12V

honestly can’t make this stuff up.
 
I did get a notification on the screen last night and it automatically bumped the % limit up to 100% but then I haven’t changed to 100% for awhile. A few weeks at least as I’ve not been anywhere. I’ll see if it pops back up.

I think my car is led acid rather than the revised version.
 
Lithium Iron Phosphate Batteries
Some vehicles are equipped with a Lithium Iron Phosphate (LFP) Battery. To determine if your vehicle has a LFP Battery, open the charging screen on your touchscreen and then touch Set Limit, or open the charging screen in your mobile app and drag the slider.

  • If the image of the Battery displays "50%" and "100%" then your vehicle is equipped with a LFP Battery.
  • If the image of the Battery displays "Daily" and "Trip" then your vehicle is NOT equipped with a LFP Battery. Disregard this section.
If your vehicle is equipped with an LFP Battery, Tesla recommends that you keep your charge limit set to 100%, even for daily use, and that you also fully charge to 100% at least once per week. If Model 3 has been parked for longer than a week, Tesla recommends driving as you normally would and charge to 100% at your earliest convenience.

In addition, a best practice is to allow Model 3 to "sleep" regularly by parking it with Sentry Mode disabled, when possible. Consider using the Exclude Home, Exclude Work, and Exclude Favorites settings to prevent Sentry Mode from automatically activating at locations it is not needed (see Sentry Mode).

Following the above guidance maximizes available range and improves the vehicle's ability to accurately determine the state of charge and estimated range.

https://www.tesla.com/ownersmanual/model3/en_jo/GUID-7FE78D73-0A17-47C4-B21B-54F641FFAEF4.html
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https://www.tesla.com/ownersmanual/model3/en_jo/GUID-7FE78D73-0A17-47C4-B21B-54F641FFAEF4.html

2021 LR without the LFP here.

I’m guessing that just applies to the newest 2022 production run, although it seems pretty easy to check according to the guidance ^
 
theone8181 said:
What's the normal one?
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Before that it was lead acid, so weighs more and dies after around 4 years. Annoying given the low level of maintenance required generally.

The size of the new one isn't an issue, but there are reports of it not being charged properly. It's not like it has to turn an engine.
 
The size for quiescent drain is only possible by the very low internal resistance cells Tesla have used aswell as relying on the HV battery providing backup pretty much all the time.

it might suprise you the jury is still out whether they will be okay in real applications. What with the introduction only starting in the Plaid cars.
 
FerretBoy said:
Before that it was lead acid, so weighs more and dies after around 4 years. Annoying given the low level of maintenance required generally.

The size of the new one isn't an issue, but there are reports of it not being charged properly. It's not like it has to turn an engine.
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Oh I'd read that (think liion ate better for charge cycles), let's not pretend that the weight of the 12v battery is going affect range at all, its probably the difference between summer clothes and winter clothes:cry:. I don't know how common it is for the normal battery to die (although if tesla have changed it maybe they're worried).
 
theone8181 said:
Oh I'd read that (think liion ate better for charge cycles), let's not pretend that the weight of the 12v battery is going affect range at all, its probably the difference between summer clothes and winter clothes:cry:. I don't know how common it is for the normal battery to die (although if tesla have changed it maybe they're worried).
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There is a lot of it on the members forum, so definitely happens just like with ICE cars, I guess it hurts more though as you have a massive battery. Also dead 12v and the windows roll down and the wheels lock (due to motors), so it's a pita. No screen either.
 
sounds like there must be more too it - if the main battery calibration is off, such that the 12v doesn't get fully charged, then why not a OTA fix ? -
like a hardware issue such as the environment for the recharge of the unheated 12V is not optimal for lifespan of it.
 
FerretBoy said:
There is a lot of it on the members forum, so definitely happens just like with ICE cars, I guess it hurts more though as you have a massive battery. Also dead 12v and the windows roll down and the wheels lock (due to motors), so it's a pita. No screen either.
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It does seem daft when you have the massive battery that could be fully charged, and it's a piddly little 12 volter that causes an issue. I'm sure i read the original roadster didn't have a 12v battery at all, but i think the issue was that it was difficylult to isolate the electronics. Its tempting to buy a spare battery and just keep it as I have seem some people saying its died not long after giving problems. I'm assume it's not a big capacity battery, so shouldn't be that hard to change (my experience or changing batteries is that often car manufacturers put them in places that are a stretch to reach and with a heavy battery its hard work).
 
Honestly if it goes, it will most likely be at home. Like I said it's just the same problem normal cars have. Well excusing one person I saw that said the charging circuitry failed.

Instead of a spare battery, maybe get a monitor if you are concerned.
 
FerretBoy said:
Honestly if it goes, it will most likely be at home. Like I said it's just the same problem normal cars have. Well excusing one person I saw that said the charging circuitry failed.

Instead of a spare battery, maybe get a monitor if you are concerned.
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I'm not worried (I had an e92 m3 before, even with a warranty you can't help but worry with those:p), I believe there us now a warning nessage, it's just annoying as I think all the cars I've had have lasted 6 years so least on the battery front, and I'd have thought they would be hammering the battery as much due to the initial turn over currant draw.
 
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