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Given how unforgiven TC is to wicking I'd guess our wicking isn't good enough for big power in RTAs
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Have some 26 gauge T1 on order & will try a dual coil on my spare Dual Coil TFV4 base.I really like the T1 build in the Crown RBA base but airflow is limited & as most have found the wicking is a pig.
 
Dude said:
Have some 26 gauge T1 on order & will try a dual coil on my spare Dual Coil TFV4 base.I really like the T1 build in the Crown RBA base but airflow is limited & as most have found the wicking is a pig.
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First time with the Crown was terrible, dry hit after dry hit. Not had a problem since.

As I'd been playing with Ti/Ni200/Stainless Steel in TC for the last week I decided to rebuild the crown with a nice simple 9 wrap 26ga Kanthal around 2.5mm for 1.1ohm.

Lovely relaxing vape, especially around 17w with the airflow only just open one click
 
hardkore said:
What are peoples opinions of the Goblin mini? I have the v2 goblin which, when working, works brilliantly but just leaks like mad and the fill screw stripped its threads.

Do you get good flavour out of the mini? Is it a PITA to coil seeing as the deck is so small?
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I had one delivered today :) Its really cute. Didn't have any issues building it, but then I have been at this for the best part of 2 years...



Here she is next to a Luxe Mods Hybrid Dripper:



Works really nicely. I have only just built it so the coils are settling in, 2x10 wrap 2.5mm ID coils using .3mm Kanthal and cotton and running at 0.75ohms, but first impressions are really quite good.

Lets hope it doesn't leak...
 
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In slightly less interesting news I got some Plastidip to pain my DNA200 enclosure today and sent some drawings off to get some acrylic laser cut for a faceplate
 
Im interested... plastidip was one of the ideas i had for coating the mod.. be good to see how it came out and see how it holds up in time.

I have found a UK modder that might be able to machine a box or at least do the cut outs etc on a box i choose for a fee...
 
UKDTweak said:
Im interested... plastidip was one of the ideas i had for coating the mod.. be good to see how it came out and see how it holds up in time.

I have found a UK modder that might be able to machine a box or at least do the cut outs etc on a box i choose for a fee...
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Given a lot of the automotive uses it should hold up well. Went gun metal grey, not quite as dark as I was hoping but at £20 a can I'm not buying another in hurry.

Should have the Acrylic parts tomorrow afternoon after work
 
Cheers for the reply guys.

I ended up buying a goblin mini on the way home :D You guys are right, that deck is microscopic. Luckily, my first build has been wicking fine and currently built at 0.33ohms on my xcube 2. Such a huge mod for a tiny tank lol.

Stuck it on my sigeli 75w and its nice, its even better on my old aspire sub ohm battery but obviously not as much power.

Out of my subtank and subtank v2, goblin v2 and my atlantis this is my favourite tank so far. I watched grimms video yesterday and will definately look into the drip tips although the stock one isnt as bad as i expected.
 
So i've been living with the nautilis a bit, and it seems to be going quite well, gurgles/spits like hell though and i'm wondering if there's any tricks to stopping that from happening/in general make it smoother without changing the whole head.

It also leaks occasionally, seems to be sporadic as i mostly endeavour to keep it vertical and i cant find a method of tipping it that can reliably replicate the leak, the fluid seems to be coming out of the air vent so i'm assuming it's some kind of hydrolock mechanism that will leak if there's air in the tank, but i'm still not sure how it's meant to compensate for air going into the tank to equalise fluid dropping.
 
RBA in the Uwell is back to being swine.

Had been absolutely fine since 4pm or so put 2-3 tanks through it. Just picked my mod up to find juice dribbling down the side
 
Frozennova said:
RBA in the Uwell is back to being swine.

Had been absolutely fine since 4pm or so put 2-3 tanks through it. Just picked my mod up to find juice dribbling down the side
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I had the same last night, was working great with a .15 TI spaced coil and 35w, then after half a tank it started to leak, i put in the SS 05 coil for work today and it was fine, ive just spent the last 30 minutes working on the RBA, three coils and could not get a good vape at anything over 20w, fourth attempt is working well though, .15 ohms, 2.5mm dia coil, spaced, rayon not too tight through the coil, bunny ears and folded the edges over the top of the RBA cap and cut against the sides then stuffed back into the deck and juiced, currently at 230c, 35w pre heat and 30w normal, 6.5 punch still... big clouds and no leaks so far...
 
JOSH86 said:
Yeah used them loads but stopped buying juice this year and made my own.

30ml Kings Custard
50ml Queens Custard
50ml Kings Ring

My 3 faves. Was tempted to try that "Bloody good custard" but hate that Damien from the Vaping nazi facebook group with a passion.
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Usually I'm a massive fan of VK, but the Kings Ring just didn't hit home. Both Queens and Kings Custard are awesome all-day vapes though.
 
Been to the laser cutters and picked my bits up.

New faceplate mock assembled, albeit with the front section upside down.

I realised like a moron I forgot to add clearance on the second layer for the buttons to pass through so I'll either drill them out a little larger or get another cut

download
 
soooo...I just got my Aspire Nautilus BVC and Istick 40W and it's great!!
incomparable experience to the ego one mini
the juice it's also better quality (suicide bunny - mother's milk)

It comes with a fitted 1.6 ohm coil aparantly and a 1.8 ohm spare (I also got a 5 pack of 1.8 ohm , just in case)
On my istick, it allowed me to push to 38W, it's displaying 7.99V and the resistance at 1.68 ohm
but I had a feeling I'm getting a slightly burned taste, so I went down to 30W , 7.09V

I've read on a seller site the specs for the coils are:
1.6ohm (3.3v-5.0v)
1.8ohm (3.3v-6.0v)

so, my question is, am I pushing it by going 30W , 7.09V ? should I go lower to mach the specs?

and also, I've been reading about rebuilding the coils on this to sub ohm (I know this is not a rebuildable but there are youtube videos on how to do it)
what's your take on that, is it worth going sub ohm on these? (taste wise, financially I presume it does make sense)
 
blackice8r said:
soooo...I just got my Aspire Nautilus BVC and Istick 40W and it's great!!
incomparable experience to the ego one mini
the juice it's also better quality (suicide bunny - mother's milk)

It comes with a fitted 1.6 ohm coil aparantly and a 1.8 ohm spare (I also got a 5 pack of 1.8 ohm , just in case)
On my istick, it allowed me to push to 38W, it's displaying 7.99V and the resistance at 1.68 ohm
but I had a feeling I'm getting a slightly burned taste, so I went down to 30W , 7.09V

I've read on a seller site the specs for the coils are:
1.6ohm (3.3v-5.0v)
1.8ohm (3.3v-6.0v)

so, my question is, am I pushing it by going 30W , 7.09V ? should I go lower to mach the specs?

and also, I've been reading about rebuilding the coils on this to sub ohm (I know this is not a rebuildable but there are youtube videos on how to do it)
what's your take on that, is it worth going sub ohm on these? (taste wise, financially I presume it does make sense)
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In my opinion yes, but taste it subjective. I normally vape at around 4.2v. So with a 1.6ohm coil I would vape at around 11watts.
 
Frozennova said:
Been to the laser cutters and picked my bits up.

New faceplate mock assembled, albeit with the front section upside down.

I realised like a moron I forgot to add clearance on the second layer for the buttons to pass through so I'll either drill them out a little larger or get another cut

download
Click to expand...

Nice job, but why have the second layer?

You could always use longer button caps?
 
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