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UKDTweak said:
:eek:£128 :eek:

I only sold mine a few weeks ago and got about £150 for it, and i had it a good few months...
But to be honest, id probably swap, now i know how good the DNA200 chip is...
But battery life will not be anyway as good as the vaporflask.

Got to love the .5 SS coil head in the Uwell, currently had it as high as 260c and 50w pre heat and 40w normal... no dry hits and vaped the tank empty... it is a great tank, and just closed the airflow 1 click and the flavour got a little better and warmer... i Love this tank.
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What TCR profile are you using for the SS coils. Is it the 304SS one? Does if let you lock the resistance in? When I tried 317L it wouldnt as if it was a new/old coil to lock it
 
Does TC help with dry hits? Not sure if i imagined reading that or not? Getting dry hits all over with the Crown now. Not sure if it's the juice or what but i've been through 2 coils in a week, they just seem to die and completely stop wicking. Might give the Ni200 coils a go and see if i get any further.
 
I am using the 304 SS TCR from steam engine wire wizard and i can lock in the ohms too.. working well, though not always as warm as i want on the RBA due to bad wicking i think...

Yes Temp control can stop dry hits or reduce them depending on how you set it up, but its more to prevent burnt hits, so to get the vap i want i do sometimes get a little dry hit now and then, like chain vaping the atty, but no more burnt hits :)

You might not be breaking the coils in properly if they only last a week or less.. when you put in a new coil, start with low watts for the first half tank and then slowly increase through to a second tank full and so on...
 
At The Gates said:
Does TC help with dry hits? Not sure if i imagined reading that or not? Getting dry hits all over with the Crown now. Not sure if it's the juice or what but i've been through 2 coils in a week, they just seem to die and completely stop wicking. Might give the Ni200 coils a go and see if i get any further.
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What juice are you using? Try something a bit higher in PG, or turn down the power going to the atty.

TC will help yeah, a dry hit free zone :p
 
Crowort said:
Interesting. I just looked on the Steam crave shop and it says you'll get 1 4 hole and 1 two hole on the 'standard kit'. Maybe they were short of two hole ones or something and included some 4 hole ones?
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Just checked my box, I didn't get any spare :(

Just orings for the tank, screws for the deck and spare glass.
 
Similar 'problems' here with the Uwell. It is an art to wick it. First attempt I didn't cover the holes enough and leak city. Re-wicked and it appears in my attempt to be thorough I may have compacted the cotton too much, occasional dry hit when chain vaping a lot.

I tend to find however that the easiest way to wick is threading the cotton through the coil then threading both cotton ends through the cap and fitting the cap (so the cotton is sticking out the top) then pocking the cotton down into the wells. At this point you got to be careful not to compact it too much though.

Once it gets going though it is a great piece of kit for the price, does drink juice though.

I am sure we will all master it soon!

Current vaping at 0.22 ohms with titanium, 220C, 30 Joules on the IPV D2, Cool apple from Vaping King (not really a menthol lover but this one is pleasant). Not really a flavour vape so once I get my next juice order I will stick something in to test the flavour of the Uwell.

Anyone who isn't on the Titanium hype do it. Much better than Nickel by a long long way.
 
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TommyV said:
What juice are you using? Try something a bit higher in PG, or turn down the power going to the atty.

TC will help yeah, a dry hit free zone :p
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A new juice from a company called Liquid State. Billed as 80/20 but it's as thick as some 90/10 i have. It's just really odd. Put in a new 0.25 coil on Saturday morning. Was chain vaping the whole night in the pub and not a single issue. Sunday was ok too, and now today, no wicking at all. Can get maybe two hits before it's dry, and then no wicking bubbles at all. Looked at the coil just now and the cotton is dark brown. The juice is completely clear and only 0.3 nicotine.
 
UKDTweak said:
:eek:£128 :eek:

I only sold mine a few weeks ago and got about £150 for it, and i had it a good few months...
But to be honest, id probably swap, now i know how good the DNA200 chip is...
But battery life will not be anyway as good as the vaporflask.

Got to love the .5 SS coil head in the Uwell, currently had it as high as 260c and 50w pre heat and 40w normal... no dry hits and vaped the tank empty... it is a great tank, and just closed the airflow 1 click and the flavour got a little better and warmer... i Love this tank.
Click to expand...

Know of anyone who's had problems with the brass connection on the vt200? Any better dna200 mods out there?
 
UKDTweak said:
:eek:£128 :eek:

I only sold mine a few weeks ago and got about £150 for it, and i had it a good few months...
But to be honest, id probably swap, now i know how good the DNA200 chip is...
But battery life will not be anyway as good as the vaporflask.
Click to expand...

Flasks have been unfashionable for a while now and along with the cheaper shark version, they been really hard to move on.

I think most people are just waiting for the sx version. :)
 
Could not agree more Balky, its a tiny deck and a learning curve to the art of wicking... but ive found after putting in the cotton and fitting the cap, i hold it up to the light to see if i can see light through the cotton over the juice holes, then i drip till well soaked and hold up to the light again, and each time ive seen light on one side, so i get a tiny bit of the cut off cotton and stuff it over the top of that side... currently at 40w pre heat for 1s, 6.5 punch, and 30w normal, after about 3-4 seconds i can see the watts start to drop, but buy that point im ready to stop, the amount of vapor is perfect and i have an ADV i make, so know the flavour well, have it in my old faithful Lemo 2 with a TI coil too... the Uwell is definitely better for wicking higher VG than the lemo 2, gives a warmer vap and the flavour is a little better... but more consistant across each pull.
 
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A[L]C;28618914 said:
Know of anyone who's had problems with the brass connection on the vt200? Any better dna200 mods out there?
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At the moment the best seem to be Custom made. I can't think of a single "Mass Produced" DNA200 that's been completely free of problems
 
A[L]C;28618914 said:
Know of anyone who's had problems with the brass connection on the vt200? Any better dna200 mods out there?
Click to expand...

The HCigar VT200 has not been available long, so not heard of any 510 issues as yet, but when you start threading a SS atty on and off, in time the brass will give to the stronger SS threads of the atty, how long though is anyones guess, depends on how ruff the user is with screwing on tanks/RDA's, and the quality of the brass...

As for other and better DNA200 mods, there are not many mass produced ones available yet, its called the Efusion, the china ones out so far are either smaller batteries or lie about the mAh in their batteries...
Lost Vape have a promising Mod, like a bigger version of the Esquared which I have and love, but its been held up with production issues so not available yet.

There are naturally modders building them, such as Litt up customs with the 44 and there are others coming such as the Lavabox... the whiteout..

Here is a link to Some of them...
http://vaping360.com/dna-200-box-mods/

I myself opted to build my own but this morning i gave in and order the Hotcig DX200 from fasttech, its only a 900mAh lipo, but its also the cheapest available DNA200 mod out at the moment and will do for the car or at home..
its £96 on Fasttech, but enter the coupon code MAP and you get it for £84 :)
 
UKDTweak said:
Could not agree more Balky, its a tiny deck and a learning curve to the art of wicking... but ive found after putting in the cotton and fitting the cap, i hold it up to the light to see if i can see light through the cotton over the juice holes, then i drip till well soaked and hold up to the light again, and each time ive seen light on one side, so i get a tiny bit of the cut off cotton and stuff it over the top of that side... currently at 40w pre heat for 1s, 6.5 punch, and 30w normal, after about 3-4 seconds i can see the watts start to drop, but buy that point im ready to stop, the amount of vapor is perfect and i have an ADV i make, so know the flavour well, have it in my old faithful Lemo 2 with a TO coil too... the Uwell is definitely better for wicking higher VG than the lemo 2, gives a warmer vap and the flavour is a little better... but more consistant across each pull.
Click to expand...

Cheers for that, will give it a go next time.

Had to change the drip tip, was too wide for my liking.

Not familiar with the DNA200, whats punch?
 
A[L]C;28618914 said:
Know of anyone who's had problems with the brass connection on the vt200? Any better dna200 mods out there?
Click to expand...

Thing with that mod it was £60-75 initially before the vendors I assume wanted a price lock and it increased to reflect retail prices. At the original price people would forgive any flaws but now it is competing with better made mods so unless you desire a DNA200 wait for it to stock pile and drop in price as they wont be able to shift them.
 
Yeah i changed drip tips too, i dont like metal drip tips and not a fan of wide tips too..

With the DNA200 you have your normal wattage and temp settings, but you have too new settings:

Pre Heat, you can set a different wattage to initially hit the coils with to get them up to temp quicker, you can set it as high as 200w if you want and can set how many seconds to run at the pre heat setting before it returns to your normal wattage settings applied.

Punch is a setting from 1 - 11, this determines how close to your Temp limit the pre heat tries to get your coils.. default is 5, 11 would cause the preheat to fire until the seconds limit of pre heat or you hit temp control limit, lower will stop sooner so your not hitting the temp limit straight away which is much better.
 
UKDTweak said:
Yeah i changed drip tips too, i dont like metal drip tips and not a fan of wide tips too..

With the DNA200 you have your normal wattage and temp settings, but you have too new settings:

Pre Heat, you can set a different wattage to initially hit the coils with to get them up to temp quicker, you can set it as high as 200w if you want and can set how many seconds to run at the pre heat setting before it returns to your normal wattage settings applied.

Punch is a setting from 1 - 11, this determines how close to your Temp limit the pre heat tries to get your coils.. default is 5, 11 would cause the preheat to fire until the seconds limit of pre heat or you hit temp control limit, lower will stop sooner so your not hitting the temp limit straight away which is much better.
Click to expand...

The Ni200s need a good ~150w preheat to hit 450F quicky. Crown is juice and power hungry. Must be on my 4th tank full so far
 
150w... thats nutts, i hit my .15 TI coils with only 40-50w pre heat.
thing is, you dont want to hit temp limit straight away or too fast as this means you wont get the wattage you set for normal use, and thus get a cooler vap, you only need to heat the coils up to a decent temp to perform and then let your normal watts do the rest so that your dont get a temp protect message or at least not till near the end of your puff...

Took me a while to figure that out and why others said they got nice warm vapes when i could not... so id back that down and try the way i am now doing it.. it works much better..
And yes it drinks juice, even my .15 TI went through 3 tanks in work today...
 
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So just had another Crown coil die, this time a 0.25. No wicking, just dry hits and this is dialed down at 40w. Took it apart and the cotton was dark brown (it's clear 0.3mg juice) and there is black junk stuck hard all over the wire:

125 by evilpoleandy, on Flickr

Not sure what's going wrong. They've been broken in ok as they've worked superbly for at about 2 days. And never been above 70w.

Might try the Ni200 coils, see if TC makes a difference. I assume a 75w mod is ok, what's a decent temp, 400F?
 
UKDTweak said:
150w... thats nutts, i hit my .15 TI coils with only 40-50w pre heat.
thing is, you dont want to hit temp limit straight away or too fast as this means you wont get the wattage you set for normal use, and thus get a cooler vap, you only need to heat the coils up to a decent temp to perform and then let your normal watts do the rest so that your dont get a temp protect message or at least not till near the end of your puff...

Took me a while to figure that out and why others said they got nice warm vapes when i could not... so id back that down and try the way i am now doing it.. it works much better..
And yes it drinks juice, even my .15 TI went through 3 tanks in work today...
Click to expand...

It still holds around 60-80w on the rest of the pull, I'll post some proper numbers when I'm back home in the morning
 
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