***The Vapers Lounge*** 2.0

Status
Not open for further replies.
I've been so into buying wire and practicing making coils recently I actually forgot to re-order juice!

Need to get out tomorrow and get some emergency stuff.

School boy error from someone who hasn't been a school boy for a fair few years!
 
This eScribe, as someone who has never used a DNA200 device before, is a bit of a nightmare.

I've put my mod in, got 2 long strands of .5 kanthal hooked into a dripper base, coming in at .75 ohms.

I want to run the battery analyser, using the w/h calculator I'm being told with the following setting, that I've got 27.75w/h;

Type: Lithium Polymer (I can't see a battery option, only LiPo, LiFePO4, and power supply
Wh: 3cell

Then selecting w/h calculator, it's telling me that with 3x 2500mAh 25R's (2500mAh + 11.1v), i've got 27.75 watt-hours, it seems far too high based on info in this thread.

edit: the rest of the tool is absolutely fine, and a doddle to use, it's just making sure I'm doing the right thing with the above battery settings. Safety first!
 
Last edited:
Just leave it on Lithium Polymer and 3 Cell.
You dont Need to run the Battery Analyser, you just run the W/H Calculator and in your case enter 2500mAh, 11.1v and that should give 27.75 as you stated, thats right m8.. :)
 
Twirlywoos said:
The Samsung 30Q's have a nominal voltage of 3.6V * 3 = 10.8 so do you override that with 11.1?
Click to expand...

TommyV said:
This eScribe, as someone who has never used a DNA200 device before, is a bit of a nightmare.

I've put my mod in, got 2 long strands of .5 kanthal hooked into a dripper base, coming in at .75 ohms.

I want to run the battery analyser, using the w/h calculator I'm being told with the following setting, that I've got 27.75w/h;

Type: Lithium Polymer (I can't see a battery option, only LiPo, LiFePO4, and power supply
Wh: 3cell

Then selecting w/h calculator, it's telling me that with 3x 2500mAh 25R's (2500mAh + 11.1v), i've got 27.75 watt-hours, it seems far too high based on info in this thread.
Click to expand...

Discharge curves for the 30Q and the 25R can both be downloaded here

https://cloud.baucutt.me/index.php/s/1EFW2Fzy3inTMRF

30Q would 27.5WH

TommyV

Cell type is Lipo
Cell count: 3
And finally WH for the 25R would be 27WH

The small difference between the Watt hours between the 25R and 30Q is because the battery analyser only drains to 3v and the extra capacity is below 3v, my figures also vary from the calculated figures as they are measured using the battery analyser. Setting the soft cell cut off to 2.85v is perfectly fine on an 18650 mod as they are all rated to at least 2.5v discharge alhough this will slightly reduce cell life span.

I've done the work so nobody else has to. I need to redo the HG2 for a third time though, I forgot to save the Discharge curve so the one in the link is actually a 25R curve
 
Last edited:
Evolv recomend setting the soft cut off for 18650 No lower that 2.9v, so the hard cut off @2.85v does not kick in straight away when you get your cells low, leave some headroom for safety and like a reserve tank so to speak.

From James @ Evolv:
It is safe. The hard cutoff (not configurable) is around that voltage to ensure safety. However, by setting it at that level you may not get meaningful soft cutoff.

With soft cutoff at 2.8V, when the battery gets very low/weak, instead of the DNA dialing down the power so you can extract the last 10% or so of battery life, it is just going to say Check Battery. And you will have to dial down the power manually.

It isn't what I'd do. But, to each their own. I'd make it at least 2.9V to get the battery-extending of the soft cutoff.

People often misunderstand the nature of soft cutoff. If you look at a battery discharge curve, with lines for 1C, 5C, 10C, etc., it isn't saying Check Battery at that voltage. Instead, you'll notice that the lines tend to crater in voltage at a particular mAh. What soft cutoff does is, when the battery is about to fall off at that voltage, it instead goes *horizontally* on that curve, to the right, toward lower C value curves that end at a higher mAh. The battery can't give full power at that point much longer, and if you try it's about empty, so soft cutoff kicks in and gives you a power level it can keep going on. For total battery life soft cutoff is your friend. [smile] Maybe we should have given it a better name...
Click to expand...
 
Last edited:
Frozennova said:
Discharge curves for the 30Q and the 25R can both be downloaded here

https://cloud.baucutt.me/index.php/s/1EFW2Fzy3inTMRF

30Q would 27.5WH

TommyV

Cell type is Lipo
Cell count: 3
And finally WH for the 25R would be 27WH

The small difference between the Watt hours between the 25R and 30Q is because the battery analyser only drains to 3v and the extra capacity is below 3v, my figures also vary from the calculated figures as they are measured using the battery analyser. Setting the soft cell cut off to 2.85v is perfectly fine on an 18650 mod as they are all rated to at least 2.5v discharge alhough this will slightly reduce cell life span.

I've done the work so nobody else has to. I need to redo the HG2 for a third time though, I forgot to save the Discharge curve so the one in the link is actually a 25R curve
Click to expand...

I started mine running by the time I read UKD's reply. Came to 28.73 Wh at the end. Soft cell cut off was 3.09v. After the test has finished I set it to 3.4V as I want to increase the longevity of my cells.
 
with the soft cell cut off set to 3.4v... (thats Under Load...) your cells will still be around 3.7v at least.... if you want a good life and longevity go for 3.2v. With battery sag that would be about 3.5v unloaded when you start getting Weak Battery messages..
 
Guys, having done some research on the risks of Nichrome, NI200 and even Kanthal, I'm thinking of changing my basket and deleting the Kanthal, and instead buying Stainless Steel 317L. A bit more expensive than Kanthal (but not that much) but it seems to avoid Chromium and Nickel present in other Stainless Steel wire, and also avoids Aluminium. Those 3 metals worry me a tad. I'm also wondering if some of the issues I have with flavours have anything to do with Kanthal. Probably not, but worth trying something else. Some people also argue that SS has better flavour plus some other benefits. Unless there are any known medical issues with SS, just wondering if any of you have tried SS and what you think of it? I'm sure UKDTweak, frozennova and some others here have probably tried it. :)

Stainless Steel 317 is a molybdenum-bearing austenitic stainless steel with greatly increased resistance to chemical attack as compared to the conventional chromium-nickel austenitic stainless steel such as SS 304 and SS 316L.

SS 317L is a low carbon version of SS 317 grade which provides resistance to sensitization during welding and other thermal processes.
Stainless Steel 317L is non-magnetic in the annealed condition.
 
No concerns with any grade of Stainless steel as far as I'm aware.

Ni200 is fine when used correctly in Temperature control and I know nothing about Ni80
 
Well, not trying to be a scaremongerer as my research tells me that unless any of these metals are heated to ridiculous temperatures, yes, they're all safe. Nevertheless, just from my reading, apparently some researchers say that there is a possible link with kanthal and alzheimers; and also that if aluminium were to leech into liquid and get into our bodies, it's something the body never rids itself of. Regarding nickel, it can apparently oxidise at high temperatures and become a carcenogenic free radical. *shrug* But yeah, it would mean
melting point temperatures to get to those risks.

So I'm thinking stainless steel, particularly 317L grade which is free of those metals, might be a safer bet, if only psychologically.
 
I've switched exclusively to SS now. I ditched all my titanium and nickel.
What I love about SS is that I can use it on any mod I like. No TC? No problem, just run in power mode. Got a DNA, VTC, or SX-J? No problem, run in TC mode.

Love the stuff.
 
Hey Rilot, speaking of TC, I'm thinking of buying the Koopor Plus in red. FT has authentic ones in red, silver and white for just $42/ £27. It's 200w, has TC, and can do TC with Stainless Steel. Has an absolute ton of options, more than I'll use and looks very nice.
What do you reckon, shall I get it? I know people have had issues with the mini. But perhaps the plus is better. It's a lot of mod though for peanuts really.


Anyway, today, I've bought 28, 26 and 24 AWG SS 317L, a JPL 7000 and a Coilmaster V3. Only £47 total, and I used some of a gift voucher on the rainforest for the Ultrasonic. So only £18 from my pocket. :)
200 pads of cotton labo is currently winging it's way but anywhere between next saturday and 21st december. Will order some glass drips and a dual coil RBA for the TFV4, from FT.

Frozennova said:
Welcome to the dark side Merlin. Its a slippery expensive slope from here on in.
Click to expand...


I remember saying to you nah, I don't need anything else. Well, you were right. And how wrong I was! :D
 
Last edited:
Merlin5 said:
Hey Rilot, speaking of TC, I'm thinking of buying the Koopor Plus in red. FT has authentic ones in red, silver and white for just $42/ £27. It's 200w, has TC, and can do TC with Stainless Steel. Has an absolute ton of options, more than I'll use and looks very nice.
What do you reckon, shall I get it? I know people have had issues with the mini. But perhaps the plus is better. It's a lot of mod though for peanuts really.


Anyway, today, I've bought 28, 26 and 24 AWG SS 317L, a JPL 7000 and a Coilmaster V3. Only £47 total, and I used some of a gift voucher on the rainforest for the Ultrasonic. So only £18 from my pocket. :)
200 pads of cotton labo is currently winging it's way but anywhere between next saturday and 21st december. Will order some glass drips and a dual coil RBA for the TFV4, from FT.



I remember saying to you nah, I don't need anything else. Well, you were right. And how wrong I was! :D
Click to expand...

Ha! We all thought that in the beginning. Only thing I've got my eyes on is the Efusion DNA133, pretty happy with everything I have at the moment, just need a backup DNA200 based device as the 75w Sigelei doesn't cut it anymore
 
Frozennova said:
Ha! We all thought that in the beginning. Only thing I've got my eyes on is the Efusion DNA133, pretty happy with everything I have at the moment, just need a backup DNA200 based device as the 75w Sigelei doesn't cut it anymore
Click to expand...

I just looked on FT to see what that Efusion looks like but they don't have it, but in so doing, noticed a mod I've not seen before, a Vapecig VT200 in white and black and red and black. Expensive, but looks amazing!
 
Merlin5 said:
I just looked on FT to see what that Efusion looks like but they don't have it, but in so doing, noticed a mod I've not seen before, a Vapecig VT200 in white and black and red and black. Expensive, but looks amazing!
Click to expand...

FT don't list the Efusion, I'm waiting for the release of the Dual 18650 version, below is the Lipo powered model

http://www.vapegeek.co.uk/EFusion-DNA200-by-Lost-Vape-727.htm

I'm a bit anti when it comes the VTBox 200, there was quite a few issues with the first version which we're fixed but the packs are overrated as far as capacity and the wiring from the board to the 510 is too thin.
 
Loving the DNA200 chip, the mod is good, but the entire thing is brought to life by the chip.

eScribe after a good play is a cracking tool, and being able to flip between my builds in the form of profiles and simply change the atty over is great.

Been vaping on it since last night and still 20% or so battery left. One happy chappy.
 
Merlin, i would avoid the Koopor Plus based on the fact it is Koopor, they released the mini with the promise if a firmware update only to tell customers that in order to update they need to send to a vendor at their own cost or build a custom jig of their own so they could Try the update?!?
The stock FM was terrible, battery life was terrible and the chips efficiency was not good, there were inconsistencies between mods too... so whats to say the same bad customer service and quality dont pass on to its bigger brother???

There are alternatives, the IPV 3 and 4, the IPV D2 & 3, the Evic VT and VTC Mini, and several DNA200 mods...
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top Bottom