***The Vapers Lounge*** 2.0

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zMarkon said:
What about flavour? I've hear mixed result/depends what juice etc?
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I'm a newbie, this is my first go at vaping and started off with an RDA straight away. From what most people that I know say, is that the flavour and vapour production is not comparable to a tank. But tanks are less messy and make life easier outdoors. I can refill my RDA outside, but I've to stop and carry tissues with me to clean it ever 2 refills. If I was quitting smoking and looking for an alternative RDA would be frustrating...

BTW I can get 8-9 hits out of mine now, the liquid is pretty thick and it takes longer to soak in. :cool: I wasn't patient enough...

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Frozennova said:
I'm dripping on a mech so I need the low resistance and sefave area so I'm running a simple 9 wrap 317L 24ga Stainless Steel which sees me around 60-65w on fresh batteries
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UKDTweak said:
You dont need low ohms to get flavour or clouds on a regulated mod, that just eats battery faster...

As for what you should build, that depends on what you find comfortable heat wise and what your mod and atty can handle... also what juice you are using as different PG/VG ratios and flavours can make a difference in the experience.
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I hate warm vapour, I prefer to keep it fairly cool. I'll do some research and see what type of builds people do on IPV4-S to give me an idea...
 
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IC3 said:
Yeah its a clone, I've used it without the extension with maximum airflow on 55J/220C with dual coil from 26g twisted kenthal 4 wraps reading at 0.2ohms. It chucks nice clouds :D

I've put the extension on and in the mean time cleaned the RDA a little, it needed a clean. I've used up aronud 70% of the 15ml bottle in like 3 days...

I'll re-wick it when I get new juice.

Edit: Could you post a photo of your build? :p What cotton did you use?
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I'll grab a pic when I re-wick it again tomorrow for some other juice :)

Currently using some muji pads I have left over for a big **** off bag I got earlier last year, as soon as this is gone I'll be moving onto rayon.

When dripping juice on it, I found it best to paint the coils and wicks then fire a bit down either side of the positive post, tends to fill the well the best it can.

IC3 said:
What wire would you recommend? How many wraps should I do and what sort of resistance are you talking about? 0.5ohms?

Thanks for the tips! :)
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I had 8 wrap 26g SS316 in to begin with this morning, was fine in TC but burn't quite quickly in power mode, I've now gone for dual claptons and its much much better. At a guess the mxv4 is going to perform better with clapton/twisted coils or larger gauge wires.

Not sure what its all about, but in the book of the genuine it says to keep the ohms above 0.2 with it too...

In your shoes, I'd go and stick in a big wire order, few different sizes of kanthal and stainless, have a play about and see what you prefer in what ever tank/rda you plan to use, its cheap enough to warrant, you'd only be circa £20 for a healthy stock of various wires.
 
Would I need a new box mod if i was to go down the RDA route? currently using the iPVD2 which reads down to 0.2 ohm, currently doesnt work with my TFV4 in power mode too :( that thing goes through the juice and power like crazy.
 
If you build right you can use an RDA on the IPV D2, you just need the right RDA, a hobo V2 is a great RDA for the IPV D2, i use mine in single coil mode at around .2 ohms with titanium, twisted 26awg on a 2.5mm diameter and it performed very well at the IPV D2'd max 50j in TC mode.

Its all about building according to what room and airflow your RDA has and what your mod can make the best of.
 
Typically an RDA will use a fair bit of power, a D2 will handle it, but it will rinse your battery fairly quickly.

Edit: Better answer above^^
 
I would like to add, you probably should consider getting another mod, if your IPV D2 is anything like mine, then the ohms reading is off which causes TC problems and leaves it feeling under powered and besides that, if your looking to go over 40w, then a dual 18650 or big mAh lipo mod would give better battery life, the IPV D2 stops regulating power when the battery hits 3.7v and just dumps the raw battery voltage leaving the vape weak, plus it has no buck so cant fire less than 3.3v in power mode and cuts out completely at 3.5v, which means you wont get the full life of a cell compared to some better more efficient mods out there. Even a VTC Mini would be an improvement over the IPV D2, but its still only single 18650...
 
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Yeah i've been thinking about replacing it anyway with a dual 18650 mod. I didn't do my research properly when picking it with a tank. I will keep it for backup or out and about as it is handy to have. As for getting into the RDA's I think i'd like a better mod/ something that will give me no problems for any tanks or builds I decide to do.
 
How accurate is the reading ni power mode from IPV4-S? It was reading 0.2ohms, I didn't get the ohm reader, should I get one?
 
zMarkon said:
Yeah i've been thinking about replacing it anyway with a dual 18650 mod. I didn't do my research properly when picking it with a tank. I will keep it for backup or out and about as it is handy to have. As for getting into the RDA's I think i'd like a better mod/ something that will give me no problems for any tanks or builds I decide to do.
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Joyetech Cuboid gets my vote

IC3 said:
How accurate is the reading ni power mode from IPV4-S? It was reading 0.2ohms, I didn't get the ohm reader, should I get one?
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My IPV4 is probably the most accurate non-DNA200 mod I have when it comes to reading ohms, nickel should be way way way lower then 0.2. You locking resistance in and using that reading? Hold down both up and down buttons while in temp mode.

May be a stupid question but you are using nickel wire aren't you?
 
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Most IPV mods are very good with accuracy of the ohms, just not my IPV D2, but its their cheapest mod.
A dedicated ohm reader is always a good idea, better to have a miss hap on it than your mod!

I use a Coil Master Tab521, you can build on it but also dry fire, test ohms of coils Before you put on an atty etc... great wee device.
 
To my surprise, another firmware update for the RX200 is out, v3.0, must be working hard on it I only moved up to 1.08 or something a few weeks ago :p

New menu structure and TCR now available!!!

Three clicks no longer requires constant hitting to cycle modes, 3 click once then up/down to cycle ni/Ti/SS/Watt/M1/2/3, to get into TCR settings 5 click power off then hold fire and up and the TCR memory screens pop up. TCR settings.
 
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Right, my journey into home made juices begins here.

Ordered concentrates from Flavour boss to make 1 litre of Rocket Girl.
Ordered 250 ml of 100 mg/ml nicotine in a PG base, 1 litre of VG and 500 ml of PG from Darkstar vapours.
Then for good measure I bought 100 10 ml plastic bottle from Chefs Vapour as they were cheap enough. Plus working seven days a week I don't really have the time to look about for bottles elsewhere. I have a few spare glass dripper bottles in 30 and 10 mls as well.

As for mixing because I'm going to do it in bulk I figure the kitchen scales will do. For steeping I'll probably use the vortex in the lab to give it a good mix.
 
UKDTweak said:
yeah that update is near a week old m8... keep up lol
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Haha, I didn't bother to check, I'd only updated to the 'new' 1.08 a couple of weeks back, figured that'd be it for a while on the update side. I only realised as I was reading a post on reddit about monitoring the voltage through USB charging (turns out it charges the top cell first then the other two in tandem rather then all 3 at the same time!) at the bottom of the post it said something about testing done on v3.0 :p

Speaking of which, this caught my eye on reddit, SX Mini M Class, £80 http://www.cyclonevapes.com/products/yihi-sx-mini-m-class
 
isnt the M class the older version that does not do SS wire, plus its an old mod, never was a fan of it myself, and calling it mini is a joke... lol

But a good mod and was very popular when it came out.
 
Correct, afaik the SX350J chip on it never got the update the ML class has for SS, still a nice mod, iirc thats around £100 cheaper then when it hit the market :D
 
a solid 60w mod for £80... as you say, half the original price but then it has been replaced. Seen them go for £100 second hand last month.
 
UKDTweak said:
Most IPV mods are very good with accuracy of the ohms, just not my IPV D2, but its their cheapest mod.
A dedicated ohm reader is always a good idea, better to have a miss hap on it than your mod!

I use a Coil Master Tab521, you can build on it but also dry fire, test ohms of coils Before you put on an atty etc... great wee device.
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Reading 0.19ohms.
 
UKDTweak said:
isnt the M class the older version that does not do SS wire, plus its an old mod, never was a fan of it myself, and calling it mini is a joke... lol

But a good mod and was very popular when it came out.
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pgi947 said:
Correct, afaik the SX350J chip on it never got the update the ML class has for SS, still a nice mod, iirc thats around £100 cheaper then when it hit the market :D
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It did get the SS wire update. The last update gave it adjustable TCR so it supports any wire with a sensible TCR.
I've got two of them and use them both with SS wire.

It's a great mod but these days I'm not sure it's worth the premium it still seems to command. The Evic VTC Mini does everything the SX does for half the price.
It's a heavy mod too. Nearly as heavy as the RX200 / Reauleaux.
 
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