***The Vapers Lounge*** 2.0

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Rids said:
I dont know how you guys have the skill and patience to make your own coils. They're like little works of art, where as mine always end up looking like a dogs ********. I'll stick to buying them!
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A good coil jig...http://www.coil-master.net/product/coil-master-coiling-kit-v3 / https://www.fasttech.com/products/0...master-v3-6-in-1-e-cigarette-wire-coil-winder

Shove wire in, turn one end to your desired wrap count, done ;)

Though I have the V1 kit atm, which only does up to 3mm, so I'll be going back to a drill bit for my new RDA's when they arrive so I can do 4mm+, thinking of doing a single parallel staged heating coil, clapton + 24awg kanthal, I'll screw it up but at least I'll try :D
 
Hmm, starting to think an rta might be a good idea.

Murdered 4 heads this jan, all gunked up from heavy vg heavy sugar juices, i've tried my best with boiling water and the ultrasonic to revive them but it's generally a lost cause.

Thing is i find the subtanks rba a tad restrictive, can't make neat enough builds for big clouds in that tiny space.

What rda's would be ideal for this sort of thing? I'm looking for a 'craft a masterpeice and enjoy just rewicking as opposed to a new head' kind of thing with good build space, a big tank and bigger airflow than a subtank.

Any suggestions? Its hard to really guage based on shops descriptions if it's what i'm after
 
The new Subtank RBA is very good, look at my post a day ago, got a Clapton coil in it and hitting 65w and big clouds.

Best tanks though for clouds and flavour.. the OBS Crius or the Griffin which is very similar but a slightly bigger deck.
 
UKDTweak said:
The new Subtank RBA is very good, look at my post a day ago, got a Clapton coil in it and hitting 65w and big clouds.

Best tanks though for clouds and flavour.. the OBS Crius or the Griffin which is very similar but a slightly bigger deck.
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This the rba that comes with the v2? The one with big juice holes in the sides rather than the tiny ones in the bottom of the v1?

If so then that's what i'm struggling to chuck 25w through/building bigger coils (this is my best attempt yet and the first that hasnt burnt like mad or sounded like a ww2 re enactment).

The post holes are just too close together for my brutish hands to make decent leads for the wider coils
 
The aromamiser might be an easy step into rebuilding, you'll need a little bit of persistence with the wicking, but once you get it right it's a great vape and the build deck is a piece of cake!

I use mine every single day. Currently got dual claptons @.45ohms vaping at 40W. This is mainly to conserve battery life (and partly because i'm vaping red astaire right now, the menthol would be too much!), it can handle 70W pretty well but my evic mini would eat the battery if I were to ADV at that setting!

Just ordered a whole heap of thin wire for fused & stapled claptons/aliens etc.

0.09mm
0.1mm

Guna be fun :D
 
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Its the V3 deck in the Crius you want, a Velocity style deck, the Griffin is the same just a little more room.
As for not getting more than 25w in to it... ive had mine at 90w and been ok, its all down to your coil build and wicking, i do 25 or 26awg wire, about 4/5 spaced wraps on a 2.5mm bit, wicking is Rayon and is tight through the coils but then i thin out the tails and only poke some of the tails into each juice well.
 
Cheers UKDTweak for pictures of your builds in the Cruis and everyone else for their input also, will have a fiddle around tomorrow when I have time the vertical build looks interesting.

Watched RIPTrippers video earlier of the Griffin looks great I can see how the added space on the build deck is favourable over the Crius but hey hoo, maybe at a later date!

Hopefully my 10ML sample of Unicorn Milk clone arrives tomorrow pretty excited to drip it.

UKDTweak, expecting some Cotton Labo Organic Cotton on the 8th of Feb (Order placed 6th Jan :o and I'm running out of muji fast!! But I notice you have sinced moved onto Rayon, better wicking of flavour?


My Gearbest order is still "processing" aka not budged since I ordered 2 weeks ago off the top of my head... Safe to say Ill get in touch to cancel that order and will avoid them in the future.
 
I find rayon better for tanks at least, less likely to get any leaks using it compared to jap cotton/muji but it requires a little more work to use than the latter, i tend to "stroke" from one end to the other to remove tufts and knotts if any and thin down the rayon till i get the diameter i require for my coil, plus with rayon, unlike jap cotton that expands when juiced, rayon actually shrinks, so you have to get it in tighter to allow for this.
Every time ive used Jap/Muji in a tank ive had leaks but its handier for drippers.
 
UKDTweak said:
Its the V3 deck in the Crius you want, a Velocity style deck, the Griffin is the same just a little more room.
As for not getting more than 25w in to it... ive had mine at 90w and been ok, its all down to your coil build and wicking, i do 25 or 26awg wire, about 4/5 spaced wraps on a 2.5mm bit, wicking is Rayon and is tight through the coils but then i thin out the tails and only poke some of the tails into each juice well.
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This is pretty much what i'm running now, its a solid adv on 25 but as i said anything over it just goes dry and burns. Not much flavour for the clouds too.

Guess i'll have to work on my coil building, i'll maybe dig out the dremel bit set and try that, i think my green screwdriver might be on the large side.

Wicking wise i'm on rayon, didnt realise it shrunk although makes sense that my wicks that work are much tighter than i'd have thought was acceptable.

I'll maybe keep experimenting with the subtank, i really shouldnt be spending any more money on vape gear i'm already down £200 odd in january
 
25w on a single coil in a subtank RBA is about right, if you want to get more power and heat in try doing a twisted pair single coil, just take a single length of Kanthal or whatever wire you use, i recommend 26awg, take the two ends and join them together with a hard twist, then get two pens/pencils, put one each into the looped end and twisted end, hold one end tighter and the pull on the other and start to twist...
If you have a drill its easier, you can trap both ends in the chuck...
Just twist until tightly would together, i actually use the CoilMaster Coiler and a Kuro coil to make mine, this will give you thicker wire and thus require more power, wrap around a 2.5mm bit, space each wrap slightly so they are not touching, then fit to the deck and pulse to check there are not hot spots, strum if needs be.

Now for the Rayon wick, get a piece just over an inch long, reduce it to 1.5 times the diameter of your coil diameter, then tightly twist one end and feed through the coil, once you get the twisted piece of rayon through and hit the untwisted rayon it should be tightish going through the coil, just a little resistance, pull till you have a goo fluffy amount each side of the coil and then pull back and forth to settle it in.

Now cut the tails so there is just enough to touch the deck on either side and no more, this is where i tend to pinch the ends and then trim a little off, then fluff it up and push onto teh deck, you can add a little juice to help make it stay in place, than attach the chimney and tank and fill, let it site for 5 minutes to really wick, set you mod to 20-25w and take a few toots, then increase the power 5w at a time and see how it goes..
 
My Evic VTC mini arrived today, really like it so far, especially with my Crius RTA.
I have the 150W cuboid and a Griffin V2 on there way as well, so Im going to try Temp control. Im planning a dual clapton coild build in the Griffin, can anyone recommend the best wire for this - is 316 grade 34AWG too thick?

I happy to just twist 2 strands together and do a build like that if the clapton is a bit adventurous

I just want to take advantage of the huge build deck :-)
 
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Not got my Griffin yet but based on my Crius experience i would start with 25awg for the core and 30awg for the wrap, max 2.5 inner diameter and about 5 wraps or if you want to do twisted, dual 26awg strands will fit as they do in the smaller Crius, same 2.5mm ID and wraps.

Be aware, the 316 SS setting is Not for normal 316l SS, its for their own coil heads so the TCR is a little out, use the M presets, set one to 0088 for 316/316L :)
 
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UKDTweak said:
25w on a single coil in a subtank RBA is about right, if you want to get more power and heat in try doing a twisted pair single coil, just take a single length of Kanthal or whatever wire you use, i recommend 26awg, take the two ends and join them together with a hard twist, then get two pens/pencils, put one each into the looped end and twisted end, hold one end tighter and the pull on the other and start to twist...
If you have a drill its easier, you can trap both ends in the chuck...
Just twist until tightly would together, i actually use the CoilMaster Coiler and a Kuro coil to make mine, this will give you thicker wire and thus require more power, wrap around a 2.5mm bit, space each wrap slightly so they are not touching, then fit to the deck and pulse to check there are not hot spots, strum if needs be.

Now for the Rayon wick, get a piece just over an inch long, reduce it to 1.5 times the diameter of your coil diameter, then tightly twist one end and feed through the coil, once you get the twisted piece of rayon through and hit the untwisted rayon it should be tightish going through the coil, just a little resistance, pull till you have a goo fluffy amount each side of the coil and then pull back and forth to settle it in.

Now cut the tails so there is just enough to touch the deck on either side and no more, this is where i tend to pinch the ends and then trim a little off, then fluff it up and push onto teh deck, you can add a little juice to help make it stay in place, than attach the chimney and tank and fill, let it site for 5 minutes to really wick, set you mod to 20-25w and take a few toots, then increase the power 5w at a time and see how it goes..
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I've tried twisted pairs triples and quads (thini it was 32awg i was using before) but always ended up sounding like ww2 in there, might try again and see if more wick will help it.

Normally its the leads mess me up, i can do micro coils fine its just they always spit (im thinking im making it too tight abd theres nowhere between the coils for vapour to escape.

Man my phone keyboard is buggy today
 
To get higher power you need bigger coils and thinker wire, micro coils are not suited to high power.
The clapton i made at the weekend on my subtank rba is currently rocking on my Cloupor Mini DNA40 at full on 40w Max and its performing great, but i have had it on my VF Stout at 65w just fine too, but that was a 26awg kanthal core wire with 30awg 317L SS wrapped around it, so in all a thick bit of wire, must be close to 24awg, its a contact coil though and only 4/5 wraps...

I did twisted 30awg 317L spaced dual coil build in my Crius last night and it max's at about 35w, the wire is just too thin to take any more power.
 
UKDTweak said:
To get higher power you need bigger coils and thinker wire, micro coils are not suited to high power.
The clapton i made at the weekend on my subtank rba is currently rocking on my Cloupor Mini DNA40 at full on 40w Max and its performing great, but i have had it on my VF Stout at 65w just fine too, but that was a 26awg kanthal core wire with 30awg 317L SS wrapped around it, so in all a thick bit of wire, must be close to 24awg, its a contact coil though and only 4/5 wraps...

I did twisted 30awg 317L spaced dual coil build in my Crius last night and it max's at about 35w, the wire is just too thin to take any more power.
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Yeah, i was quad twisting it to try and get thicker, it was about as thick as the current lot which is 0.6mm.

When i say "micro coil" i assumed it meant no gaps, the previous effort was about 6-8 wraps of 0.6mm annealed and gapless, the current effort is similar but minus a couple of wraps and spaced.

I'll maybe see if i can find the previous effort and try a bit more wick, i assumed the lack of gaps on such a long coil was causing the interior of the coil to seal in the juice and heat causing it to pop so badly
 
Yeah micro can be another way of saying contact, and they are fine, i just prefer spaced from a simplicity point of view, less chance of hot spots, and from building to run in TC i find they dont get as hot as quick and cool faster so are better suited for TC use, plus i think the flavour is a little better with spaced.

Ive just re built a Crius with 2 25awg 317L SS coils, spaced and a 2.5mm id, they are holding at 45w with a 200C limit set. not as good as i normally get, ohms around .23ohms, but still better than the previous twisted 30awg 317L SS coils that were in it and only taking 28w.
So it can be hit and miss, also the distance your coils are from the airflow holes can make a big difference, closer makes for a cooler and smoother vape generally.

I fired the new coils initially at 30w and got lots of spitting, pushed up to 45w and no more juice in my mouth.
So its the combination of all these, coil ID, wick and airflow and power that make the vape what it is.
 
Yeah, i guess its just experience i really need, the subtanks rba puts the coil smack bang between the air holes so positioning isnt so bad, normally my issue is leaving enough space around the coil to get air past.
 
Depending on the diameter of the coil, you should have enough room to raise/lower it a little to adjust the airflow a little more. Just make sure it doesn't short on the rba cap or deck.
 
pgi947 said:
Depending on the diameter of the coil, you should have enough room to raise/lower it a little to adjust the airflow a little more. Just make sure it doesn't short on the rba cap or deck.
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Had that happen to my first attempt at building, but it was plainly obvious as i put the cap on that perhaps my blue philips was a bit big to be wrapping around :D
 
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