Type R and VTEC owners

Not sure really. I got too annoyed with the drone of every exhaust I tried so back to OEM. To be honest the standard system is decent just heavy. Don't forget how much this car already makes from 2.0l. Aftermarket dual exhausts are really about noise and looks. Singles give more top end power and weigh less. They tend to be loud though.

My T1R single 63mm was nice and light but very loud. Definitely helped at to end with a decat as I kept hitting the limiter when I first fitted it and also broke the hill challenge record near work :p

Not had mine on RR since toda but feels stronger on midrange, they are expensive. I paid £450 for a second hand one.

I can import a second hand Toda header for around £700, expensive but none for sale in the UK. Can also get a Mugen twin exit for around the same. Just pondering which I would see more benefit from. The Mugen is meant to be a great exhaust and not deafening.

I had the T1R 63mm on my DC5, very loud, especially with the Toda header, but well built and made good numbers (246bhp in total IIRC).
 
How it should launch. Regarding clutches my car did 72in first 3 yr and I changed the clutch to OEM at 102k which is fine for NA, it's now at 162k and due another soon - I have a clutch and gearbox from a 2006 ready, gearbox is also noisy but still working 4 yrs later.


So nothing to worry about. I'd already emailed Performance Autoworks in order to get it dropped off. Looks like I can use that £800 or whatever it would cost and get some form of an exhaust on it.
 
Remove all the backlash from the drivetrain, roll forward with the handbrake half on before going for it. Reduces the shock on the drivetrain.

You should have no problems lighting up the rear wheels without the CDV. If you don't spin them up then they will bog down and are pretty lame till 25mph.

In reality you rarely need to do it so it's prob not worth the risk as much as you want to show up a 4wd

Did a launch on my s2000 on friday, first time i had tried, just revved the engine to around 6k released the clutch and the back tires spun, and felt the car go sideways slightly in both directions until i got full traction, did i do it wrong?

55plate s2k
 
Also another question, what is the difference between "geometry setup" and 4 wheel alignment or are they the same thing? im wanting to get mine setup a local garage near me does 4 wheel alignment for £50 which is done by a laser machine and according to them their machine has two profiles for the s2000, pre facelift and facelift i presume. mr car drives straight, but can feel squirrelly so im wanting to get it checked out

Will my local place be ok to do it or do i need some sort of expensive specialist center?
 
FN2 specific problems, mechanically and bodywise? Shout at me. You've probably seen my EP3 checklist so just wanna build on it for an FN2 check list. What are these rust issues I've read about? I think I'm gonna look at FN2's now as EP3's in mint condition are few and far between and a bit overpriced for the age of the car for me.
 
Top edge of windscreen rusts just under the weatherstrip. Cars with full honda history should be able to get this fixed under the corrosion warranty though.

A clicky clutch pedal at the bottom of the travel is a clutch master cylinder issue, very common and many owners put up with it. Honda do fix this under warranty but most seem to put up with it, I found it annoying personally. I had my car booked in to have this fixed under the used car warranty (even though my car was modded they did not care, knowing a guy at the honda dealer may have helped mind), but I had my crash before it was done.

The interior is a great design but the trim plastics dont last, it will look tired and scratched in places if not looked after.

Check the door handles on the outside are not loose (the silver part).

Check electric fold mirrors still work, the mechanism can break.

Check the seat fold mechanisms work cleanly, the cable can come off so the seats wont fold. Also marvel at how they do not return to their original position when folded, annoying.

Fundamentally reliable cars really, nice equipment level and good refinement apart from the ride.

Also observe the following traits - mats that go brown, poor brakes, a thousand rattles and a sense of heaviness/ lack of sharpness to the handling. I found mine a bit underwhelming to be honest, suspension mods transformed it (camber bolts/geo, and mugen springs/dampers for me) but not sure you want to go down that road again...?
 
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Cheers Will, nice bit of info there. I don't really wanna faff too much with the suspension but I have been reading about the -15mm Eibach springs improving the ride a lot and it doesn't really drop the car much so they may be an option. Possibly get away with camber bolts and all that, I would rather deal with a bit of tyre wear than have a car which seemed fragile on naff roads in terms of knocking it out of alignment.

I think ultimately I'm never gonna be happy but EP3's as great as they are, are admittedly getting a bit long in the tooth and are very sparse and like you say all in all the FN2 seems a solid reliable car with good running costs really.
 
Also another question, what is the difference between "geometry setup" and 4 wheel alignment or are they the same thing? im wanting to get mine setup a local garage near me does 4 wheel alignment for £50 which is done by a laser machine and according to them their machine has two profiles for the s2000, pre facelift and facelift i presume. mr car drives straight, but can feel squirrelly so im wanting to get it checked out

Will my local place be ok to do it or do i need some sort of expensive specialist center?

Same in theory but:

4 wheel alignment = make numbers match the either of the two settings. This may be only toe setup too, the s2000 is fully adjustable so caster and camber can also be changed.

'Geo setup' = optimised for the car, mods, driver with non standard settings that may improve handling at the expense of other things (maybe tyre wear)

WIM or CG are well known for S2000 alignment, will want more than £50 though.

There is a big issue with S2000s with seized bushes, this will result in two one of two things, your suspension bushes are seized to the adjusters in the right place so you can still get ok aligment, or they are seized and miles out which will need the cutting out and new bushes fitting. This will be expensive.

When mine was done, every adjuster was siezed.
 
Air box lid. Remove it.

Probably lose a hp or two but worth it imo :)

Worth a try but personally i didnt like it, made it sound like a saxo with a K+N. Far too agriculturally and rough.

Has Chris fitted the decat yet? That helps with noise. Tip for that is Lings honda, the fasteners for the cat (springs, bolts and nuts are literally pence so worth replacing)
 
RE: Airbox lid off. I do it every now and again, it sounds ok. reminds me of how my EP3 sounded when I first got it with the K&N Typhoon fitted.

After going out to a dead battery on Saturday, Honda assist [The AA] came out within 15 minutes of calling them. Got the car up and running again, grabbed a new battery off Cox Honda along with a tube of Shin Etsu so I can do my seals.

Seems the battery was the factory fitted unit [going off the date on the side of it] which is pretty mental really. 8+ years service. Car starts as soon as you push the button now which it never did before.

I need to start looking around for the big service soon though and make the decision on whether or not to bother continuing the warranty and FHSH or just try to find a specialist around here.
 
Worth a try but personally i didnt like it, made it sound like a saxo with a K+N. Far too agriculturally and rough.

Has Chris fitted the decat yet? That helps with noise. Tip for that is Lings honda, the fasteners for the cat (springs, bolts and nuts are literally pence so worth replacing)

Haven't got it yet as it's coming from the States.

Been offered an Amuse R1 dual exit for £650, or I can get a Mugen gen 1 from Japan for £750.

I'd like the Amuse as it's Ti and will look fantastic, but I'm put off by Ti not being the hardiest material.
 
Same in theory but:

4 wheel alignment = make numbers match the either of the two settings. This may be only toe setup too, the s2000 is fully adjustable so caster and camber can also be changed.

'Geo setup' = optimised for the car, mods, driver with non standard settings that may improve handling at the expense of other things (maybe tyre wear)

WIM or CG are well known for S2000 alignment, will want more than £50 though.

There is a big issue with S2000s with seized bushes, this will result in two one of two things, your suspension bushes are seized to the adjusters in the right place so you can still get ok aligment, or they are seized and miles out which will need the cutting out and new bushes fitting. This will be expensive.

When mine was done, every adjuster was siezed.

Got me worried now that mine might be the same, research suggest to get it sorted it can be anywhere from £1k-£3k

What year is your car? how much did it cost to get it sorted out?
 
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