Type R and VTEC owners

Simon said:
What improvement will you notice ?
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Higher resistance to fade, ability to stay out on track longer, possible reduced stopping distances, I'm looking forward to finding out. Like I said, I noticed huge improvements on my DC5 with 2 piece AP and on my Evo with 2 piece PF.

Simon said:
I just think you bolt stuff on and then assume because it's expensive that it will work better. The biggest benefit you will get will be on the suspension cause you've made the 'wheels' lighter.
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Please tell me what I've just bolted on and assumed it'll work because it's expensive? My car is set up really well now, it handles well, it goes well, before Coombe it used to stop well. A friend of mine with a huge amount of track experience as well as competition driving took it out in the dry at Donington, he commended me on the way that the car is set up, saying it's the nicest S2000 he's driven. He gave me some driving tips as well as recommending me to adjust the front toe as he said initial turn on was a little bit on the numb side.

Simon said:
You think it's negative as its against your thoughts. I'm just saying that no one ever cracks disks (apart from drilled) and upgraded disks are not needed. You make out you have discovered a new element or something.
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Not at all, but you come on here with a know it all attitude and one liners without actually explaining yourself (till now). Well no one is not me then, since I've cracked OEM ones. If I've cracked OEM ones, why do you assume that I don't need uprated discs?

Simon said:
We all saw your last video where it's hardly like you are the hardest braker on the world. It's interesting that on here you didn't mention your braking yet on s2000 forums you made out you were Lewis Hamilton and brake 'really late and hard'
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The one at Donington, where it was wet and I couldn't get the tyres up to temp so I was driving to the conditions? Great example. And I didn't make out I was Lewis Hamilton at all, that's your interpretation of me saying that I brake late and hard, which in my opinion I do. I'm fully aware that I am far from the quickest driver on track and someone may come along with a stock S2000 and show me a clean set of heels. Do I care? No! Because this car is my hobby and I enjoy doing what I do to it.

Simon said:
I guess some people just don't like the way chequebook modders come across :). If theses were so vital why on earth did you spend money on spoon monoblock calliper and leave old brake disks on !?
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Did I say they were vital? No. If that is what I thought, I'd have bought them months ago. I was wanting to upgrade the discs anyway but wanted to see how I'd get along first. I do however know from my own experience that the 2 piece discs work well.

Simon said:
What pads are they anyway. My thoughts are they are putting some serious deposit on that disk
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They were Project Mu HC+ 800, I'm now running Brembo HP2000. I've bought PBS as spares to take with me to Spa and the 'Ring in April.
 
Ok good enjoy the new stuff.

All, I am saying is don't underestimate the effect of new things when replacing worn out stuff like brake disks.

Ive had my S2000 for 10 years and never seen anyone crack OEM disk, any issues with disks seem to be with the wrong pad, eg DS2500 cause huge pad transfer and judder.

I use £40 front disks which seem to last ok

To highlight the point about the correct pad. 1st set of disks 102,000 miles with EBC reds - killed them, next set on at 119000 miles, replaced at 165300 miles after using EBC yellows.

So in 90k miles of ownership I've spend about £240on front brakes and never found the need for upgraded. If they do run too hot, stick £20 of ducting on them.

Just be honest - you want them cause they look better :D
 
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The PBS pads are carbon based and not steel, PBS tell me they're spot on for the discs I've ordered. I think my current Brembo pads and previous Project Mu pads are steel based like the DS2500, although I'm not 100% sure. Of course I like the look of them but I do also genuinely feel that for my driving style there'll be a big improvement. All my car is used for is driven hard at weekends when the weather allows and on track. I have a Focus for everything else.
 
Whats the news in 2016 ?? Found myself new garage to do ****** nasty jobs on my teg. Polish slave labor prices charging 35/hour changed ripped rear engine mount for 40 pounds and ware sorry that they charged me this much :D Best thing its 15 minute jog from my workplace can drop it of before work and pick up after :D
The good clean stuff like engine transmission rebuild remap work i leave to Autocraft. Nasty Bushings crap access pain in the ass stuff goes to them :D

Gotta ask how much they would do me full re-bush for :] Or at lest camber kit cause mine is a mess and i know rear ones are messed up and need cutting/welding.
 
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Does any one know much about ek4's? What is the widest wheels you can fit on it my mate is wondering if he can install 16x8j with 245/40/r16
 
New brakes arrived, looking forward to getting them fitted and getting the chance to drive the car again.

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New discs fitted. The pads have less life than I thought they would, it seems a day at Donnington in the rain has taken over 50% of their life! I'll have to fit the new pads before I go over to Spa and the 'Ring later this year.

Ignore the lack of rear centre caps, I have new ones on the way. Not the best pics, but you get the idea. I'm actually tempted to get the rear calipers painted.

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Got mine booked in for rear arch repairs (rust) in two weeks.
He is going to cut out the rot completely and weld in new sections, with a 10 year guarantee on his work.
Can't wait:cool:
 
loltim said:
Got mine booked in for rear arch repairs (rust) in two weeks.
He is going to cut out the rot completely and weld in new sections, with a 10 year guarantee on his work.
Can't wait:cool:
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What sort of cost will that be? I have slight bubbling on both my rear arches where the arch meets the bumper. Will need to get it fixed in the next few months.
 
£700.

The options are bodge (grind down and fill/paint) for probably £300 and then sell it, because the rust will come back the next winter, or get it done properly.

Admittedly £700 is a lot on a car worth £5000 (on a good day) but I think I want it fixing properly.

£700 is worst case scenario too. He said 12-14 hours labour at £50 per hour, so it could be less depending on what he finds when he starts cutting the metal away.
 
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