Type R and VTEC owners

-Ad- said:
Don't! :p

Tegiwa are ok with the off copied part here and there, but structural parts like these and LCAs are not something to just copy by the likes of them. Already asked them plenty of questions regarding their Engineering design of the LCA Func 7 copies and got nothing back except 'they are exactly the same' :rolleyes:;)
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I don't mean the likes of Tegiwa, I mean a proper machine shop.
 
rjkoneill said:
I'm gonna be honest Chris, I don't ever lower my cars. My ep3 is a superb stock ride height.
I don't want the car any lower than it already is.

Why are lowering springs advised?
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It's the progressive springs that make the difference. At normal compression the spring rates are similar to stock so you won't notice a difference in ride quality, in fact some people say the car rides better on them. But as you load the spring up the spring rate increases so there's less overall body roll in corners meaning you can plant the car better. This is also why people combine it with the JDM rear anti roll bar as the back end in stock form can be quite snappy if you're not careful.
 
Crezzlin said:
Hi guys just got my 09 civic type r, love it but as the car still has 4 months or so Honda warranty I would like to have the little things fixed.. 1st is the car drives fine but the clutch from what I can tell makes a winding sound as you pull off, only just noticeable but still is this common? 2nd the passenger wing mirror doesn't auto close, will this be covered by the warranty as I'm the 2nd owner.. Thanks again :)
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Just take it to your local dealer and see what they offer?
 
Had some work done on the ATR today. MOT is due in a month, so had it done early, flew through.

Then changed the front engine mount as the old one looked like this:

Photo28-02-2012150021.jpg


New one is solid, what a difference! Whole car feels better, really card to describe.

Also, I have never been happy with the brakes, they had no real stopping power and fade quickly. The pads that were fitted were cheapos, so I took no risk with the discs either. So on the front, new OEM discs, and these pads:

Photo28-02-2012150709.jpg


Keeping the discs on the back, and swapped the pads out with Pagid ones.

Pads that came off were Apec, nasty stuff!
 
BTW, FRSU should be about £80, not sure where they get £155 from?

Prices from Grinspeed for comparison:

Full fast road set-up £80.

Full fast road set-up with corner weight set-up £160

Fast Road set up with rear camber arms (DME) and two front camber bolts £247 (EP3/DC5)

Taken from:

http://type-r-owners.co.uk/forums/showthread.php?77886-Offers.

Lots of praise for him on TRO. Not sure how far away you are, but worth a shout.

http://www.grinspeed.co.uk/
 
Exactly, hence he's dreaming. That was also 4 months ago. It's worth £2500 if the bodywork is sound, it has good history and there are no outstanding mechanical issues. If it's not, I wouldn't pay more than £2000 for it.
 
I've seen facelifts for sub £4k. The problem with EP3's is their desirability and popularity. There are a lot of examples that haven't been looked after so you have to be careful.
 
Stormster said:
A-Plan are usually very competitive for me, usually Chris Knott, A-Plan, Flux/HIC, Brentacre and Sky :)
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Yup these. Lifesure used to be good but not sure they cover hot hatches anymore? Also Elephant/Admiral can be cheap, especially if you put your mum as a names driver.
 
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