Type R and VTEC owners

Zeed · 13 Jun 2017 at 18:39

Jonnycoupe said:
Haven't you got a B18 rather than R18. R18 wants 0w30 from an OEM supplier.

This miller sruff is class in its own
http://www.tegiwaimports.com/blog/445/

Hp gain vs other good quality oil. I get more mpgs over motul 8100 i was using before. So hp and mpg gain 0w30 is like 60 quid for 5l

Zeed · 13 Jun 2017 at 18:40

TacticalFish said:
Appreciated on both! The Castrol is a bit cheaper than the Millers so I will most likely use that.

Check above post why im using Millers

Jonnycoupe · 13 Jun 2017 at 18:48

Yeah whatever. Just get the grade right next time you give advice.

ChrisD. · 13 Jun 2017 at 20:30

Lord_ZED said:
This miller sruff is class in its own
http://www.tegiwaimports.com/blog/445/

Hp gain vs other good quality oil. I get more mpgs over motul 8100 i was using before. So hp and mpg gain 0w30 is like 60 quid for 5l

The millers stuff is mostly sales nonsense.

Where's the oil analysis in that blog?

Frozennova · 13 Jun 2017 at 20:36

I don't buy into fancy engine oils. I'd imagine Shell/Castrol/Mobil have far bigger R&D and testing budgets that the likes of Miller's etc.

Zeed · 13 Jun 2017 at 20:51

ChrisD. said:
The millers stuff is mostly sales nonsense.

Where's the oil analysis in that blog?

Here ??
https://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&f=66&t=1488803

More dyno's its not ********.
https://www.s2ki.com/forums/uk-irel...dge-v-millers-nanodrive-dyno-results-1037636/

Simple costs 30% more than others

But i dont care since my ITR gets oil cahnged each 3000 miles or every year since its a weekend blaster

Still quite clear when I'm draining. Gotta love fresh build engines :]

ChrisD. · 13 Jun 2017 at 21:01

I'd rather take on board the view of someone like @Simon who works in the oil industry over someone on a forum or a reseller.

Zeed · 13 Jun 2017 at 21:02

ChrisD. said:
I'd rather take on board the view of someone like @Simon who works in the oil industry over someone on a forum or a reseller.

Give me extra 200 quid ill dyno it and record on my gopro with zero cuts whole draining refiling ect hehe

Only way I could get more hp from my b18 is cams and another remap. So 1000 for around 15-20 hp gain. Maybe next year Since i got everything possible changed besides cams for na

But first thing first gotta change synchros in my JDM s80 thats 700 quid job

But today happy days Insurance went down. Now i pay bit below 500 quid/year with agreed car value of 7k

ChrisD. · 13 Jun 2017 at 21:10

I think dyno numbers are irrelevant when it comes to oil. It's how well it protects the engine etc and not how much power it makes.

Frozennova · 13 Jun 2017 at 21:42

ChrisD. said:
I think dyno numbers are irrelevant when it comes to oil. It's how well it protects the engine etc and not how much power it makes.

Exactly this. I'd rather give up the potential 5 horsepower I might gain from a "fancy" oil for engine longevity.

Jonnycoupe · 13 Jun 2017 at 22:57

Don't matter when K20 have a habit of needing chain tensioners around 100k yet no one seems to see a trend with it and non OEM oil use.

Take your airfilter out - that's good for power.

Lord_ZED said:
Here ??
https://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&f=66&t=1488803

More dyno's its not ********.
https://www.s2ki.com/forums/uk-irel...dge-v-millers-nanodrive-dyno-results-1037636/

Simple costs 30% more than others But i dont care since my ITR gets oil cahnged each 3000 miles or every year since its a weekend blaster Still quite clear when I'm draining. Gotta love fresh build engines :]

nt matter. Was that the ITR you had to rebuild?

Simon · 13 Jun 2017 at 22:59

Oil is supposed to go dirty too

Gaijin · 14 Jun 2017 at 09:57

Simon said:
Oil is supposed to go dirty too

Aye, oil goes black on the Evo pretty much from the moment you change it.

I use Millers in the gearbox on the Evo, but that's because of a noticeable positive difference in "behaviour" from alternatives.

Zeed · 14 Jun 2017 at 11:23

Jonnycoupe said:
Don't matter when K20 have a habit of needing chain tensioners around 100k yet no one seems to see a trend with it and non OEM oil use.

Take your airfilter out - that's good for power.

nt matter. Was that the ITR you had to rebuild?

Actually running with no filter is less power. Got bumper feed to closed Spoon filter to ARC intake to upgraded throttle body to upgraded intake manifold with hondata gasket. From Hondata readout myIAT while driving stays well cool can actually touch the manifold

My ITR is like a empty water well. I just keep throwing money at it and trash it something brakes more money and more damage

Most of time engine stays above 4000rpm due to FD4.7 gearbox just love motorways when at 70mph im at 4300rpm

But Donington next month for more damage. Bye bye front brake pads this should finish off rear discs also. So new front pads + discs with pads at back incoming will have something to do on spare weekend.

As it is i spend 1-2 grand a year on Maintenance and fixing of my toy

Not like its doing more than 3000miles/year since its weekend car.

Zeed · 14 Jun 2017 at 11:42

Simon said:
Oil is supposed to go dirty too

Depends what one classifies as Dirty

dessimpson · 15 Jun 2017 at 00:05

Gayjin said:
Aye, oil goes black on the Evo pretty much from the moment you change it.

I use Millers in the gearbox on the Evo, but that's because of a noticeable positive difference in "behaviour" from alternatives.

Probably because there's still some old oil left in the oil cooler after changing.

Zeed · 15 Jun 2017 at 17:08

dessimpson said:
Probably because there's still some old oil left in the oil cooler after changing.

Its like mission impossible to drain Every last drop of oil. Maybe if One would leave it overnight hahaha. Ill snap photo how one in itr looks after 2000km if i remember

TacticalFish · 15 Jun 2017 at 22:36

Hoping to draw upon your guys collective experience here, bonus if there are any mechanics about!

I was driving along a straight bit of road on the way home from work earlier today, rolled down my windows a bit to hear a strange intermittent metal-on-metal screeching sound. Thought it was someone else' until I turned off and was the only car around.

First thought was the timing chain, took it out of gear and it persisted, revved in neutral, no change either. Timing chain ruled out. Before I could try anything else it stopped. No noise on braking either.

Fast forward to a moment ago, I got a chance to go out and investigate further, manage to provoke it when turning sharply right. Found a quiet straight road and jiggled the car from side to side, again, only happening when turning right sharply.

Any ideas chaps?

Dup · 15 Jun 2017 at 22:49

TacticalFish said:
*snip*

I get something similar on mine, assuming it's the same as mine. Basically there's a couple of things. There's a bulletin/fox from Honda regarding dirt getting into gaps where the subrame mounts causing similar symptoms.

The other is just grit or other getting in and around the brakes. Makes the noise when turning and it can get worse, then suddenly goes away. Sometimes a good pot hole clears it. It's odd, however haven't had it for a while.

Other possibility could maybe be a worn droplink but you'd expect that to rattle in all conditons or at least when hitting a bump.

I'd see if it goes away. If not, get the wheel off and give the brake heatshilt a good rattle and check for any debris and check the drop links and check if the spring is all good.

TacticalFish · 15 Jun 2017 at 23:16

Dup said:
Basically there's a couple of things.

Thanks for the input, I think I'll get the wheel off at the weekend and have a look. Found this thread, although it's US, that seems like a potential culprit, it's definitely a metal on metal sound. Similar fix to your suggestion here as well. Hmm, investigation required. Good excuse to check the droplinks too!