Victorian renovation build log

eviled

eviled

eviled

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Joined
25 Sep 2016
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893
Thought I would log my current house project.

Its a 5 bed semi built in 1869

Not decorated since the 70s and stood unoccupied for over a year before I bought it (for a bargain)

I have done little bits to make it habitable - ie. temporary roof repairs, and double glazed front windows

Latest big project is a small extension and kitchen/breakfast room revamp, that I'm still soldiering through now!

Old lay out - room with the lady is (:D) in kitchen, looking at the back of the house




hope you can appreciate that most of the light and garden access/view is blocked by the outrigger, which was an unheated overly large utility room

plan was to make an L-shape and add lots of glass



more to follow....
 
Work is nearly finished, plenty of hiccups on the way but nothing major.

Didn't want to lose much garden and house is big enough already, so didn't want to extend out. It was more about creating usable space, light, and garden views



Work began in September lol
 
Il try and post chronologically

Foundations being dug, you can see it's not a very big space increase



New insulated slab for new section and utility, same level as the old concrete slab of the kitchen.
Floor will be limestone slabs



Oh and I think the roof pitch is 25degrees
 


the foundations are only 6 bricks deep on to soil so the back walls needed underpinning

fortunately the structural engineer had accounted for this
 
Here is the underpinning continuing along the internal wall that will take the weight of the largest piece of steel

you can see the set concrete in the right of the hole, and a spade for reference of how deep the hole is!



Main problem with the house is no matter how much the heating is on it never gets particularly warm in winter.

Because of this I am insulating internal walls with minimum 50mm celotex, and all new walls are insulated cavity walls

 
Thanks guys!

The overlap on the rear higher horizontal steel is 150mm on to original wall

The overlap on the front lower horizontal still is only 100mm because it's onto a new double skin wall - looks scarily little but his is current building regs!

The vertical 'solider' bricks across the top are to tie it in architecturally with the original brickwork above the windows that you can see in the first site photo
 
Cavity walls??? This house was built with gas lights! Solid wall construction throughout!

Wallrock 3mm takes a solid wall from u-value 2.1 to 1.8 or there abouts

I'm adding 50-70mm PIR insulation where I can onto the internal surfaces of the external walls. This takes the u-value from 2.1 to 0.3-0.4 which isn't far off a modern build

Oh and wallrock is foam and fibreglass by my understanding so doesn't sounds particularly breathable, and I don't fancy worrying about knocking holes or gouging 3mm foam wallpaper all the time
 
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1mx1m hole in roof for skylight

I've gone for a fixed triple glazed unit as I'll never open it and it saves a lot of £££

 
^ What he said



Wiring for outdoor speakers

Was going to get Yamaha NSA392, anyone got any experience of them or other outdoor speakers?
They are just for BBQ music really, too old for raves!
 


fixed roof window
1x1m
triple glazed + self cleaning

the only architects change to my plans was a hidden lead gutter that you can see here.

The top of the parapet is capped with sandstone
 
not a huge fan of spots but didn't have another decent option really (at least they are dimmable LEDs)



the reason for the deep recess in the roof light was to hide the roof and joists and steels lining up awkwardly
 


Chimney breast opened up for range cooker
There was a lot of brick in there! Must have gone through about 5 different cooker/fire/chimney configurations in its 160yr life time before it was finally bricked up!
 


boarded out
new 70mm lower ceiling to hide pipe work. Had them use acoustic board as the room above is a bedroom



skimmed and the floor being laid.

The floor is tumbled umbrian limestone laid in a vertical/horizontral herringbone pattern to stop the room looking too long and narrow

 
The floor looks much better in person, much more natural tones, looks like it's been there forever.

I'm obsessed with natural materials. Limestone floor, solid wood kitchen and granite worktops!

Re: Hedge
I tired to do them simultaneously but found without hard copies of plans builders were vague and didn't really take me seriously.
As soon as the plans were done I was able to get itemised quotes and start dates quickly!
I'd recommend getting plans first, only downside is that some of the design features may turn out to be expensive and have to be edited once quotes arrive!
 
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