Opened up the megadrive - No LED does not necessarily mean it doesn't work. Whats the betting this is actually working and just has the LED wire broken?
More thread toys have turned up! The clone everdrive cart is amazing
Everdrive in action.
Got another turquoise lite turning up as well but Ive run out or charge ports and chips. I really need to get some max 17050's in as they are like hens teeth right now and its one of those chips I seem to replace quite a lot. I have a good supply of BQ's and a bunch of M92's but no new ones and most of my ones are pulled from faulty consoles so Id rather not be swapping chips out 4 or 5 times to see if I can find a working one.
In other news my new flux I don't like nearly as much as my old flux, I wouldn't mind but I bought like 5 tubes. Going to buy more of the old flux as that stuff was just the best stuff I have used so far
On the grey switch and ive recorded an epc amount of footage... its a nasty one! water damaged, ammeter showed nothing when I first got it, just flashing on and off.
So far for the main board I have had to remove the charge port, fix pads, put charge port back on but after that still no dice so I went over it for shorts and couldn't find a thing. I then decided it's normally M92 so replaced m92 and now the board is taking voltage (and the correct voltage at 15v) so M92 is now good but it's still not charging a battery. I then checked over BQ and checked that we have 4v at the battery terminal which we do. So all the main power IC's appear to now be good.
After that I turned my attention to the charge circuit, namely Max17050 and although the area looked fine it's a prime candidate for charging / not turning on issues, I also know a board will turn on and exhibit the same kind of voltage / draw profile if its faulty, this is however really close to what a switch lite board should do if its working correctly and that's (plug in, board draws between 0.03 and 0.07 amps for approx 2 seconds before current draw drops off and the board sits at zero draw and 15v), the only difference with a faulty fuel gague IC is that if you then unplug it and plug it in again it won't draw for that 2 seconds where a fully working board will. Anyway i'm waffling, left without much of a choice and no spare chips I whipped it off and sure enough had a really dull pad under there I tried to clean the area up and tin the area/ chip and put it back on but with bga I think I have only had success doing this the once even on this small chip so now it's a waiting game on ,ax17050 chips, I got 4 coming from china at a few quid each and one coming from a uk supplier at nearly £10.
Oh and I was going to just swap its nasty daughter board but ended up having to do quite a bit of work there as well as again ribbon cables for the backlight circuit and a trace on the daughter board are just non existent now. This switch probably wasn't the best candidate for a quick how to video as frankly when most chips are nasty and you are reworking most of the board until it works doesn't = good troubleshooting as on 99% of the switches I see they are not this bad and most are a 1 to 2 component fix, not a 4 or 5 component fix.
![[Death]](/styles/overclockers/avatars/4.png){kind=avatar}
no emulation talk!
