Soldato
I guessed as much. I’ve got a spare one to test.
Took a gamble on a non working original 3DS, original Ambassador edition, boxed with all original inserts. While waiting for it to arrive also bought a new battery...
The planets aligned, and when the 3DS arrived I popped in the new battery and it booted straight up
Only thing is, the shell is a little tired. Scared to wreck this one, but want to swap the shell.
Keep up the good work @Vince!
Do you have any recomendation for a cheap (sub <£100) hot air rework station?
I am doing more bits/repairs (phones, mega drive, original xbox) I have used the mrs hairdryer a couple of times for somethings, but ideally something with a bit more direction and hotter would be good!
God, that puts me right off lolShell swaps on a 3ds are a nightmare Good luck!
God, that puts me right off lol
May leave as is then, just shows signs of having had a life. Patina?
@Vince Had a thought, wanted your opinion...
I can't see any replacement shells that are the original colour, so, if I was to buy a donor 3DS with a better shell what would I need to swap over to make my 3DS think the other shell was its own?
Also, I know this is a little sad, but would it be better to leave it as it is, so as to remain a true Ambassador 3DS? If I reshell it is it still truly an Ambassador?
It's the Aqua blue one
Yea thats the colour. find a nice one with the same shell - use everything you need, keep the bottom panel with the serial from the original console. Nobody would ever be able to tell.
I've just bought a good looking non working 3DS, looks ideal for the swap.
What would I need to take over? Just the main motherboard?
Sorry for all the questions
Thank youJust the board and the bottom cover everything else should just work. when you open it be careful top right corner there are 3 ribbon cables and one is under the board.
It's a baby chip and a common failure point on 0.47/0.48 amp draw at 15v (USB pd) power draw. The chip is responsible for checking and reporting on battery condition, charge level etc it works alongside the bq24193 BMIC to provide the charge boost circuit. Down side is no way to really test it so only way is whip it off and see. Sometimes you will see vdroop on the vbat rail which should push out 4.25v but commonly will drop to like 3.8v ish on max17050 failure. This one didn't do that, the rails looked solid, the only give away was rcm (recovery mode) behaviour. That basically pointed me at the circuit.
In other news...
I now have several early ps3 machines, pads, games... paid basically nothing, first thing I think I will do is fully refurbish the pads, new pots, damn good clean and I recon the pads alone pay for what I paid for it all. Two nice condition original ps3 pads... dont mind if I do... don't mind at all.
Today though I rebuild a surface!!