Vince's Ebay Repair Thread - (Console Repairs & Mods)
- Thread starter Vince
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- lets repair things
I did not... but I am going to spray it... If I do it in silver I dont need to find new screen rubbers etc and im pretty sure this one isn't too far gone to get an awesome finish on it. Watch this space
ive already bought everything I need to usb mod it and re-finish it - question is how good a finish do we think I can get?
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Soldato
Wouldnt take much to spruce that, quick sand and spray with plastic paint.
I think later today we put a surface back together
Still not sure on the best method of attaching the screen back - B-7000 or 3m but once I get started on fit im sure I will make a decision.
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The red button game gear is gone. I listed it and somebody bought it through the global shipping program on ebay a few hours later. Wonder where in the world she will end up
Edit: Buyer responded, she is heading to the czech republic
So many of the consoles I build end up in random places I should mark up a map of where in the world they are.
Edit: Buyer responded, she is heading to the czech republic
So many of the consoles I build end up in random places I should mark up a map of where in the world they are.
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Have you come across this site before?
Www.tovideogamesupply.com
Looks like they have some interesting stuff available.
Www.tovideogamesupply.com
Looks like they have some interesting stuff available.
@Vince Just picked up a great condition DS, but the bottom screen is pretty ugly... Can I just change this top layer?
I am pretty sure you can just swap the digitizer but given the screens for them can be had for sub £5 id just get a full new screen and digitizer
Guess who has another early ps3, 40 games and 2 official pads on the way - I keep buying more crap Got some awesome GameBoy DMG builds happening at the moment which ill share up in the comming days
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Remember the yellow switch with the chip out of it from earlier on in the thread, when I properly got it back together I realised that nothing worked, not a single button was registering any inputs and it had a persistant hum in its audio circuit and no sound output. Tonight I decided to fix it and I am going to show you how, something a bit different...
A little video of the problem:
Now this was a switch that has already had it's pmic and port replaced so has had some previous IC damage which I fixed enough to at least get it powering up. So before we start parts so far are port, pmic (m92t36) and a new daughter to mainboard flex cable as the previous one was torn.
So troubleshooting, first thing I did was checked for continuity across mainboard to daughter but only all the top pins and everything checked out... plus none of the buttons on mainboard are working regardless so from previous switch comms issues, I made a couple of pinout diagrams for the lite main to daughter fpc, i did this about a year ago to help the community but if I never posted them in here, well here they are:
These are going to come in super handy in a moment, anyway the switch works by sending button presses to a 32bit arm cortex mcu which then offloads to the cpu, it is the first port of call for 99% of button presses, I know this because of my destruction of switches in the name of finding out a number of things 1) how many chips can you remove and still have it boot? The answer is surprisingly a lot. and 2) what do some of the chips I don't know the function of do? well the STM32 chip was one of those again about a year ago so next that is where I turned my attention...
This is the chip:
Checked it over, everything looks fine, signs of flux on the board but the board has been reworked by somebody else and now me so thats not uncommon, It doesnt look like anybody has been here, so lets swap it and see what happens.
Chip off, came off nice and clean...
New chip on, happy enough with that could have been a little straighter but, aye, its connected.
And this is the result of the chip swap:
So mostly good but dpad up doesnt work... meh, dpad up is on the daughter and we have a new flex cable and a known good daughter... so it has to be the mainboard fpc, if we look at the fpc mainboard side we know the dpad up signal comes bottom row 8th pin across, and if you look at this picture notice anything off with bottom row 8th pin across?
So off with the fpc and on with a new one:
End result... switch lite did not defeat me
A little video of the problem:
Now this was a switch that has already had it's pmic and port replaced so has had some previous IC damage which I fixed enough to at least get it powering up. So before we start parts so far are port, pmic (m92t36) and a new daughter to mainboard flex cable as the previous one was torn.
So troubleshooting, first thing I did was checked for continuity across mainboard to daughter but only all the top pins and everything checked out... plus none of the buttons on mainboard are working regardless so from previous switch comms issues, I made a couple of pinout diagrams for the lite main to daughter fpc, i did this about a year ago to help the community but if I never posted them in here, well here they are:
These are going to come in super handy in a moment, anyway the switch works by sending button presses to a 32bit arm cortex mcu which then offloads to the cpu, it is the first port of call for 99% of button presses, I know this because of my destruction of switches in the name of finding out a number of things 1) how many chips can you remove and still have it boot? The answer is surprisingly a lot. and 2) what do some of the chips I don't know the function of do? well the STM32 chip was one of those again about a year ago so next that is where I turned my attention...
This is the chip:
Checked it over, everything looks fine, signs of flux on the board but the board has been reworked by somebody else and now me so thats not uncommon, It doesnt look like anybody has been here, so lets swap it and see what happens.
Chip off, came off nice and clean...
New chip on, happy enough with that could have been a little straighter but, aye, its connected.
And this is the result of the chip swap:
So mostly good but dpad up doesnt work... meh, dpad up is on the daughter and we have a new flex cable and a known good daughter... so it has to be the mainboard fpc, if we look at the fpc mainboard side we know the dpad up signal comes bottom row 8th pin across, and if you look at this picture notice anything off with bottom row 8th pin across?
So off with the fpc and on with a new one:
End result... switch lite did not defeat me
@Tinders
All I need to do is secure the screen back into the device - I wanted to fully test the screen before gluing it in I guess the question now is do i b-7000 it and clamp or do I 3m it and clamp. In the tear down we added the new battery, cleaned out the cooling solution and also new paste etc... I also happen to have a 512gb nvme just sitting on the side If you want to upgrade while I am in there now is the time, because once its back together you will be breaking the screen getting it apart!
All I need to do is secure the screen back into the device - I wanted to fully test the screen before gluing it in
I guess the question now is do i b-7000 it and clamp or do I 3m it and clamp. In the tear down we added the new battery, cleaned out the cooling solution and also new paste etc... I also happen to have a 512gb nvme just sitting on the side If you want to upgrade while I am in there now is the time, because once its back together you will be breaking the screen getting it apart!
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Soldato
- Joined
- 1 Oct 2006
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- 14,221
All I need to do is secure the screen back into the device - I wanted to fully test the screen before gluing it in
Impressive stuff, I've read many a guide on those and they all say getting the screen off is 100% guaranteed to destroy the screen. So much so I've seen people cutting trapdoors in the back to access the SSD lol.
it is basically a given.... check this out.... 2mins ill grab some pics...
Around the entire edge of the screen all you have is about half inch of glass:
And that's it.. so to remove you are working on 0.75mm glass that you have to get under and pull away without damaging the glass. It's neigh on Impossible.
And that's it.. so to remove you are working on 0.75mm glass that you have to get under and pull away without damaging the glass. It's neigh on Impossible.
Soldato
Oooh well done sire. Brilliant job! It’s a new tablet again.
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Am deliberating a free ssd upgrade while its open! its got a 256 in it right? Could double you up for free! Because I have a random 512 just sitting there! But I would need to clone it and all 4 m.2 ports in my main machine are taken up by a raid array so would need to buy some kind of USB thing to make it happen.
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