Watercooled Case Gallery
- Thread starter MikeTimbers
- Start date
Soldato
- Joined
- 3 Jun 2005
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- 7,600
A few more pics with some different colours.
So this is the current build thats in my signature.
I do kinda regret not getting the Evo or XL and sticking with the basic O11 Dynamic, oh and yes, that SSD is the entire reason I don't have a 360 deg radiator in the bottom
In terms of loop it goes:
Pump > GPU > CPU > Side Radiator > Bottom Radiator > Top Radiator > Res > back to pump
I do kinda regret not getting the Evo or XL and sticking with the basic O11 Dynamic, oh and yes, that SSD is the entire reason I don't have a 360 deg radiator in the bottom
In terms of loop it goes:
Pump > GPU > CPU > Side Radiator > Bottom Radiator > Top Radiator > Res > back to pump
Soldato
Only part I think makes it look a tad messy is the hose them runs are very long, if you make them shorter it will look cleaner.A few more pics with some different colours.
Soldato
- Joined
- 3 Jun 2005
- Posts
- 7,600
It's more function than form, but I will be making some adjustments soon. I don't mind it as is, I think it looks kind of bio-mechanical Giger-esque.
That's my excuse and I'm sticking with it!
That's my excuse and I'm sticking with it!
Username checks out
This is my temp build while waiting for new upgrades and reverting back to hard line
I dunno man, i quite like the soft tubing. It's coming back into fashion too especially sleeved tubing.
Haha i understand what you mean, plus it makes it so much simpler for maintenance. When i go back to hard line i may use black or carbon tubes rather than the traditional clear/frosted look... will look interesting.. though the ZMT was a pita to fit as it didn't play nice with barrow fittings.. i had to get the pliers out to screw them in.
A spot of water on the tube or if you're really struggling a tiny dab of oil works wonders, it's all on the outside of the tube so no risk of contamination etc.
I've toyed with hardline before but having seemingly missed the fad I'll stick with ZMT on my next build I think.. I've found the mix of that and deionised water has been absolutely bulletproof in approaching 20 years of watercooling.
Which ZMT did you buy? They did 2 sizes, usually for barrow you'll want the thinner wall ZMT tubing. 16/11 is what you're after while the 16/10 isn't for all fittings especially for tighter tolerances.
Soldato
Yeah the 16/10 zmt
On ek torque fittings tightening the collars was a PITA
But 16/11 wasn't airtight
And felt much flimsier even if its only 1mm difference
On ek torque fittings tightening the collars was a PITA
But 16/11 wasn't airtight
And felt much flimsier even if its only 1mm difference
i went with 16/10 as my barrow fittings were 16/10.. i was considering 16/11 but as @Mcnumpty2323 mentioned, i wasn't sure if it will be airtight
because soft tubing can be quite rigid.. like the ZMT, i tend to boil water in a kettle, and dump the tube end in to soften it..
Connecting the tube to the barb wasn't an issue.. it was trying to tighten the collar on top.. i had no issues when tightening using the Koolance QD.. just the barrow fittings.. it felt like trying to use 16mm tubing with 13mm fittings
I use 16/11 with sleeving and its a really tight fit so 16/11 without sleeving should be really snug.
i'll keep that in mind for the next time
Soldato
Yeah definitely depends which fittings
I have some ek classic fittings laying around
The 16/10 went on those easily
Didn't have any issues tightening the collars at all
I kept some of the 16/11 for future checking
In case ever change fittings make/model
Other difference was if you wanted bends/curves
The 16/11 definitely kinked/collapsed easier
If wanted a tight radius
I have some ek classic fittings laying around
The 16/10 went on those easily
Didn't have any issues tightening the collars at all
I kept some of the 16/11 for future checking
In case ever change fittings make/model
Other difference was if you wanted bends/curves
The 16/11 definitely kinked/collapsed easier
If wanted a tight radius
I’m glad the fittings I used are temporary. I got them cheaper elsewhere so price was not the issue but since connecting them, they are a ballache to remove. I still have a couple fittings with zmt tubing still attached, where I gave up and just snipped the tubes. Now I’ve done that, it’s near impossible disconnecting without force using couple of pliers and removing the finish at the same time
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Soldato
Had that in the past
When using primochill lrt tubing
Very physically hard Tubing
Once cut off and outside the pc case
You have room to work
Couple mole grips/locking pliers (preferred curved jaw ones for this)
Does the job
Especially if don't have great hand strength
Ordinary pliers as you said they move around
And scratch stuff Especially if they have straight jaws
Luckily I have a load of mole grips curved and straight jawed
From very small to big enough for just about anything
The small ones can even be used as pipe clamps
If necessary (straight jawed ones best for this)
Just put cloth or even kitchen towel on the cut off fittings
Once locked on the mole grips shouldn't move
Meaning few if any scratches