Not sure if you are referncing my picture or just musing, but my bad photography skills fail to show that my new levers are actually standard length
Actually, the more I look at the picture the more I can see that I got it wrong!
What did you do to your bike today?
- Thread starter edd1e
- Start date
Actually, the more I look at the picture the more I can see that I got it wrong!
Fitted new chain and sprockets tonight.
Cleaned around the sprocket carrier and the wheel AGAIN! Im never having a bike with white wheels again!
Looks fine right?
It isn't though! The chain and sprocket set is a 530 conversion and is ment for the 95-98 models, I have a 94 so checked rear sprockets and they're the same for all years, 42t. The front however is a 15t on the 94 and a 16t on the 95-98!
The kit comes with a 44t rear and a 16t front so works out about the same ratio, the sprocket carrier on the 94 however doesnt clear a 16t sprocket so I have to order a 15t front!
Cleaned around the sprocket carrier and the wheel AGAIN! Im never having a bike with white wheels again!
Looks fine right?
It isn't though! The chain and sprocket set is a 530 conversion and is ment for the 95-98 models, I have a 94 so checked rear sprockets and they're the same for all years, 42t. The front however is a 15t on the 94 and a 16t on the 95-98!
The kit comes with a 44t rear and a 16t front so works out about the same ratio, the sprocket carrier on the 94 however doesnt clear a 16t sprocket so I have to order a 15t front!
Soldato
- Joined
- 11 May 2007
- Posts
- 9,092
- Location
- Surrey
What did I do to my bike today? Dropped it (more specifically rode off with the disc lock still on). Stupid boy.
Then I stripped the first of my forks, got new stantions, seals and bush's coming tomorrow.
Forks out
And one stripped
Now you can see the reason Im doing this, the stantion is pitted and the chrome worn away
Fairly easy to strip really, ony issue is compressing the spring in the tube while you remove the top, Suzuki have a special tool but 2 bits of bar with bolts in works a treat, I'll get a pic of the set up when I do the other one!
Forks out
And one stripped
Now you can see the reason Im doing this, the stantion is pitted and the chrome worn away
Fairly easy to strip really, ony issue is compressing the spring in the tube while you remove the top, Suzuki have a special tool but 2 bits of bar with bolts in works a treat, I'll get a pic of the set up when I do the other one!
Fitted new chain and sprockets tonight.
Cleaned around the sprocket carrier and the wheel AGAIN! Im never having a bike with white wheels again!
Dry lube is your friend mate
I assume you already use this though with white wheels? I do now, and mine are powder coated black... hate black **** everywhere!For me, just fitted my new brake lever and clutch lever at 10pm lol, look frigging gorgeous. Will post a piccie in a few minutes as need to go to garage for backpack for tomorrows ride into work.
EDIT:
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Nah Oulten Park mate. Given up looking at the weather forecast. 2 days ago it said it was raining all day, then cloudy with sun, then bloody thunderstorms. if it does rain which I'm sure it will I'll just hope a few sessions are dry.
Associate
- Joined
- 21 Jul 2007
- Posts
- 763
- Location
- Cheshire
What did I do to my bike today? Dropped it (more specifically rode off with the disc lock still on). Stupid boy.
Almost been there on a few occasions! Get yourself one of those cables to go on your bars to remind yourself. I've not forgotten since!
Looks fine right?
It isn't though! The chain and sprocket set is a 530 conversion and is ment for the 95-98 models, I have a 94 so checked rear sprockets and they're the same for all years, 42t. The front however is a 15t on the 94 and a 16t on the 95-98!
The kit comes with a 44t rear and a 16t front so works out about the same ratio, the sprocket carrier on the 94 however doesnt clear a 16t sprocket so I have to order a 15t front!
That was hurting my head to read. Sounds like youre going for good sharp gearing anyway - good job! 15-44 will be decent enough ratio all round.
Shame about the cover not fitting
It hurt my head to think about it and write it!
Not sure what or why they changed the later models, must be a reason though.
It works out about the same as it was before with a 42 rear and a 14 front, that was sharp enough!
Probably require more torque but I've got plenty of that after the rebuild!
With the forks rebuild as well I'll be able to set the suspension up a little better so whilst costly, should be good!
Just fitted my Lust Crash Bungs... looking good... quite easy to fit as well... job done. So, if I drop it or some **** pushes it over or the wind gets it, my fairings remain intact
Also, done my camcorder... looking good...and records in 720p/30/60 and 1080P30
Also, done my camcorder... looking good...and records in 720p/30/60 and 1080P30
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Damage?What did I do to my bike today? Dropped it (more specifically rode off with the disc lock still on). Stupid boy.
With the forks rebuild as well I'll be able to set the suspension up a little better so whilst costly, should be good!
Totally worth it though!
PS. Pugheaven how awesome are those progrips
Soldato
- Joined
- 11 May 2007
- Posts
- 9,092
- Location
- Surrey
Peg and hanger snapped. They're sitting with some welders down the road at the mo. Couple of scratches here and there (mirrors, indicator, bar end), hoping that the engine casing isn't too bad, I daren't look.
Managed one fork last night!!
Few step by step pics when I remembered.
First off is to remove the grub screw holding the stanchion in, this was a pain and required a heat gun, an impact Torx driver and patience!
But eventually you get this
Then Mr Stilsons to assist in removing the old stanchion, was beyond repair anyway so no worries about damaging it further!
Again, loads more heat around the base to break the Locktite
Then clean up the threads where you've just removed the stanchion from and give the rest a good clean out.
I put a bit of tape on to mark how for in the stanchion has to go, try it in first before applying Locktite!!!
Then Locktite it back in again.
Fit the damping rod at this point too.
Assemble the seals, clips etc in the right order in the stanchion, fit the inner bush to the stanchion after the seals but before the outer fork leg goes on.
Then fit the oil seal, retaing clip and finally the dust seal.
Invert the fork and hold the inner up, drift the bearing into the outer fork leg using a small drift with the retaining ring on top.
Fill the fork to the top with oil making sure to fill to damper rod by moving it up and down until no more air comes out, do the same for the outer fork leg to fill between outer leg and the stanchion.
Then remove excess oil so it sits 120mm below the top of the fork level when the outer fork is fully down. Fit the spring etc and screw the cap back on to the damper rod, you need to compress the spring to do this!
Screw the cap back on to the outer fork leg and you're done!!
Easy eh?
Started the other one last night but managed to snap the impact Torx driver in the grub screw so had to get my Landlord to put it in the mill and mill the grub screw out!
Helicoiled it and went to fit the new stanchion tonight, only been sent the wrong one!! The threads are a different pitch so it wont screw into the bottom of the fork
Few step by step pics when I remembered.
First off is to remove the grub screw holding the stanchion in, this was a pain and required a heat gun, an impact Torx driver and patience!
But eventually you get this
Then Mr Stilsons to assist in removing the old stanchion, was beyond repair anyway so no worries about damaging it further!
Again, loads more heat around the base to break the Locktite
Then clean up the threads where you've just removed the stanchion from and give the rest a good clean out.
I put a bit of tape on to mark how for in the stanchion has to go, try it in first before applying Locktite!!!
Then Locktite it back in again.
Fit the damping rod at this point too.
Assemble the seals, clips etc in the right order in the stanchion, fit the inner bush to the stanchion after the seals but before the outer fork leg goes on.
Then fit the oil seal, retaing clip and finally the dust seal.
Invert the fork and hold the inner up, drift the bearing into the outer fork leg using a small drift with the retaining ring on top.
Fill the fork to the top with oil making sure to fill to damper rod by moving it up and down until no more air comes out, do the same for the outer fork leg to fill between outer leg and the stanchion.
Then remove excess oil so it sits 120mm below the top of the fork level when the outer fork is fully down. Fit the spring etc and screw the cap back on to the damper rod, you need to compress the spring to do this!
Screw the cap back on to the outer fork leg and you're done!!
Easy eh?
Started the other one last night but managed to snap the impact Torx driver in the grub screw so had to get my Landlord to put it in the mill and mill the grub screw out!
Helicoiled it and went to fit the new stanchion tonight, only been sent the wrong one!! The threads are a different pitch so it wont screw into the bottom of the fork
An opinion is useless without pictures....
Will post some later
Pictures don't show very well, but gives an idea anyway.. CHAV TASTIC lol... man I just couldn't resist... I do appologise in advance people... 
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I think that may mean you're going to hell
Tell me, is the video camera good? Details please
I'm tempted to hook something up, ideally hidden away and not too expensive (but more expensive than the damn keyfob camera off flea that I have forgotten how to use).
EDIT: Oh p.s. today I rode it about a bit, and found the Triumph garage at Twyford is gone, when did that happen?
Tell me, is the video camera good? Details please
I'm tempted to hook something up, ideally hidden away and not too expensive (but more expensive than the damn keyfob camera off flea that I have forgotten how to use).
EDIT: Oh p.s. today I rode it about a bit, and found the Triumph garage at Twyford is gone, when did that happen?