What did you do to your bike today?

Just booked in to have the ignition barrel replaced, it seems to be quite common on SVs at least that when they start to get on the ignition gets worn and you spend more time jiggling the key and finding the right angle and amount of pressure to get it to turn than riding the thing.

I had a go at it the other weekend but the connection into the loom is in such an awkward inaccessible place jambed up against the frame of the bike that I gave up and will happily throw £50 at the garage down the road to do all the stripping it down and swearing. Then I can sort matching the fuel cap and pillion seat lock whenever I can be bothered.
 
MowyTone said:
Pillion seat lock change is really easy mate. Think it's held in by 2 screws... Once you get the whole back fairing off that is
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Haha yeah I knew the actual barrel change would be easy it's the plastics removal I wasn't looking forward to.
To be honest as long as the ignition and fuel cap match then I don't mind carrying my old key for the pillion lock, then it's only something that needs doing if I come to sell it really.

The fact my new key won't be a nice Suzuki blank will annoy my inner perfectionist though.
 
tom_e said:
Just booked in to have the ignition barrel replaced, it seems to be quite common on SVs at least that when they start to get on the ignition gets worn and you spend more time jiggling the key and finding the right angle and amount of pressure to get it to turn than riding the thing.

I had a go at it the other weekend but the connection into the loom is in such an awkward inaccessible place jambed up against the frame of the bike that I gave up and will happily throw £50 at the garage down the road to do all the stripping it down and swearing. Then I can sort matching the fuel cap and pillion seat lock whenever I can be bothered.
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Have you tried spraying a **** load of WD40 in there? Mine was doig that and a bucket full of WD40 sorted it out in no time. (You don't even need that much really).
 
TripleT said:
Have you tried spraying a **** load of WD40 in there? Mine was doig that and a bucket full of WD40 sorted it out in no time. (You don't even need that much really).
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Yep it's been GT85'd to within an inch of it's life for the last couple of weeks, it's a physical problem with wear within the tumbler so no amount of lube will help. You can strip down the barrel and file the pins down which is what I'll be doing with my original one so if it works I'll have a spare.
 
I think they use those security bolts on the ignition barrels,they snap off when they reach a certain torque/tightness so theres no head on them to undo them

you have to drill them out,the wires usually go through a hole in the frame under the tank to a block connector
 
The connector on the SV goes through the front of the frame to a set of connectors mounted to a bar which is attached to the frame in such a way that you've got to strip the whole air box out and even then it's not exactly easy to access.
It's one of those jobs where it's money well spent getting someone else to do it :D
 
We had a delivery of Ducati's today including this beauty. We had a white one as well. The red one is now our demo and the tech who PDI'd it, then test rode it, said it was much better than the already great 899.

GHX856w.jpg
 
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Side reflectors and the controversial new exhaust cans! Both easy to take off though.

I think the aggressive 1299 bodywork is too much for the "little" bike but then I am biased :D

Going to stop by my dealership tomorrow and have a look anyway :cool:
 
I don't think I'd want to own one but they look like fantastic bikes. So much great choice these days, but some pretty eye-watering prices to match too.
 
ConTRo13R said:
Once i have my fork springs in I can really start messing with the settings. For now the rear is rock solid. Like it absorbs most if not all bumps nicely but lean over and open up on a couple n it feels like the back wants to bounce up. But then behaves. Its gonna take ages to get all preload, compression n rebound dialed in :confused::eek:
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The preload takes literally minutes to set, you just need a helper to measure the sag. May be worth contacting Ohlins to see if they can recommend a sensible starting point for the damper setting though.

With an Ohlins on the back it would be a shame not to get the front end as good. Springs will help with preventing excessive travel, but they are properly crap forks in terms of damping. A nice set of USDs from a 929/954 would be good, but it's relatively involved. A set of pre-98 Fireblade forks are a pretty simple conversion (spacers need a bit taken off them) and much better than the Warmstorm forks. Or you could fit Gold Valves, but they aren't cheap.

ConTRo13R said:
Its a state, and devastatingly the fairing has been cut so have to order a new left and right side. Plenty of right hand sides, but the lefts are proving to be harder to find that rocking horse poo.
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You should have bought the red one.
 
tom_e said:
Haha yeah I knew the actual barrel change would be easy it's the plastics removal I wasn't looking forward to.
To be honest as long as the ignition and fuel cap match then I don't mind carrying my old key for the pillion lock, then it's only something that needs doing if I come to sell it really.

The fact my new key won't be a nice Suzuki blank will annoy my inner perfectionist though.
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If its the same as the carbed SV its a 5 min job to take off the back fairing:

A bolt either side for plastic plate underneath the seat
a bolt either side holding down the seat
under the seat there is a allen bolt either side for the fairing
under pillion seat there are two screws to undo
then its just the bolts for the grab rail

The back is in three parts but dont separate them just lightly pull the sides away and the rubber bungs will pop off the frame. start on the offside from the stand and bring it round - that way you can turn it upside down and disconnect the wire for the rear seat lock.
 
MowyTone said:
If its the same as the carbed SV its a 5 min job to take off the back fairing:

A bolt either side for plastic plate underneath the seat
a bolt either side holding down the seat
under the seat there is a allen bolt either side for the fairing
under pillion seat there are two screws to undo
then its just the bolts for the grab rail

The back is in three parts but dont separate them just lightly pull the sides away and the rubber bungs will pop off the frame. start on the offside from the stand and bring it round - that way you can turn it upside down and disconnect the wire for the rear seat lock.
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Fingers crossed it'll be similar as that doesn't sound too bad, supposed to be dry on Saturday so I might give it a go then.

Just dropped it off at the garage, the quote they gave me works out about an hour and 20 minutes work so if it's not ready when I go to pick it up at lunch time I know I'm in trouble :eek:

On the plus side it's great getting these little things done in the winter, I asked them about doing some work on my YBR at the start of the year as it was warming up and everything was "We're fully booked for at least 3 weeks" now it's phone up yesterday afternoon "Yeah drop it in whenever tomorrow and we'll get it done" Obviously a lot of fair weather riders round here!
 
Just had my cbr delivered back to me, go to start her up and all i get is the starter motor spinning.. open the fuel tank and the bar stewards have emptied every last drop of fuel out!!!
 
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