What did you do to your bike today?

I'm 5'8" and can almost flat foot my K1300S as it's long and low. and huge :). Although if I just stand up then I can about flat foot. It's quite a wide bike. There's even a plastic guard on the right side to stop my shin rubbing whatever is down there. Clutch maybe?

I Probably look small on that bike. Yet the tiny 800gs is horrid as I can get only one foot down, with it being so tall. And horrible.
 
Nice! Any amateur pics of the helmet? It always looks more realistic when someone takes a pic with their phone, rather than the marketing photoshop bs photos.

BTW I've a matte helmet already, all black and if you don't clean it properly it'll leave stains. So it is a pain in the ****, but its ok. I've to clean my helmet daily anyways due to the amount of bugs on my visor. :D


Here you go :)

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Had a great ride out yesterday morning with a couple of mates - first proper ride for a few weeks. The roads started to dry out nicely, and one of my mates tested three different Triumphs - Tiger Explorer 1200, Sport 1050 and Sprint ST. The Explorer was really nice, and held up pretty well the the other bikes (Multistrada and S1000XR).
 
You might be fine with cleaning the exposed pistons and some red rubbergrease smeared on them,push them back in a few times and wipe any excess off

Unfortunately still hasn't solved the issue :(

I have finished the brake line conversion and removed all air from the lines with some very nice brake lever pressure, however the front wheel does not rotate freely :(

The pistons just don't pop back into the calipers. Looks like Lucy will be in the garage early next year :(
 
When you say the wheel doesn't rotate freely, is it just a bit of rubbing when moving the wheel slowly? That's normal, the pistons don't 'pop' back in the caliper, as there's nothing making them move back. The disc rotating at normal speed when you're riding will force the pads (and therefore the pistons) back a fraction (a mm or 2 at most) which then lets the wheel spin freely.

In fact if the pistons were moving back into the caliper after releasing the brake lever, that's bad. That was what was happening on my brakes before I got them sorted. That results in a lot of travel before you actually get to a decent bite, and each time you brake, the piston has to move loads to take up the slack before the pad actually makes contact with the disc.
 
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Gave it a service, nice new set of iridium plugs, new air and oil filter, new coolant, oil, reattached my fender extender and stripped of my pilly pegs and changed my exhaust hanger for a nice black one.
 
When you say the wheel doesn't rotate freely, is it just a bit of rubbing when moving the wheel slowly? That's normal, the pistons don't 'pop' back in the caliper, as there's nothing making them move back. The disc rotating at normal speed when you're riding will force the pads (and therefore the pistons) back a fraction (a mm or 2 at most) which then lets the wheel spin freely.

In fact if the pistons were moving back into the caliper after releasing the brake lever, that's bad. That was what was happening on my brakes before I got them sorted. That results in a lot of travel before you actually get to a decent bite, and each time you brake, the piston has to move loads to take up the slack before the pad actually makes contact with the disc.

When I first lifted the front up on paddock stands I span the wheel just to see if there was any resistance or play as I had only just got the front stand.

The wheel probably rotated close to a whole turn with a decent push of the wheel. Post brake lines/caliper clean I'd say I'm only getting half a rotation/spin of the wheel before it stops from obviously the same effort to spin the wheel as before.

So this is normal~ish? Having only worked on my mountain bikes prior to getting a motorbike I don't have much to compare it too.
 
When I first lifted the front up on paddock stands I span the wheel just to see if there was any resistance or play as I had only just got the front stand.

The wheel probably rotated close to a whole turn with a decent push of the wheel. Post brake lines/caliper clean I'd say I'm only getting half a rotation/spin of the wheel before it stops from obviously the same effort to spin the wheel as before.

So this is normal~ish? Having only worked on my mountain bikes prior to getting a motorbike I don't have much to compare it too.

As long as there's some free movement, as in it doesn't stop immediately after you push it, then it's fine. If you're worried, just check the temps of the disks after a few mins ride & stop without using them. If they're hot, then something could be wrong. That's how I normally check anyway.
 
When I first lifted the front up on paddock stands I span the wheel just to see if there was any resistance or play as I had only just got the front stand.

The wheel probably rotated close to a whole turn with a decent push of the wheel. Post brake lines/caliper clean I'd say I'm only getting half a rotation/spin of the wheel before it stops from obviously the same effort to spin the wheel as before.

So this is normal~ish? Having only worked on my mountain bikes prior to getting a motorbike I don't have much to compare it too.

Did you have a lot of lever travel before you cleaned the pistons? And now the lever is nice and hard? Your pistons were probably doing the same as mine, they were retracting after the I released the lever meaning each time I braked I had to get past the first bit of travel to get the pads to contact the disc.

Basically the pads should be within fractions of a mm away from the disc, if you spin the wheel, then apply the brake, then spin the wheel again, so long as it spind again it's fine. If you've put new pads in it might be rubbing more as the pads won't have mated to the highs and lows on the discs yet.
 
you shouldn't be seeing any brake binding issue yet imo,not on a 2010 machine,should be fine for atleast another 5-10 years depending on whether you ride it through winter or not
 
Ordered a load of 'gopro' mounts off the rainforest, 33 different bits and bobs for £12 including a suction mount, barclamp and loads of stickypads and curved/straight mounts. I'll be trying a few locations at the rear of the bike to get some decent exhaust noise, with the Yi out of it's waterproof casing (on a dry day, obviously!).

Have they been delivered yet? What's the quality like? I've been looking at them too but don't want some flimsy crap that'll break or not hold my Gopro secure.
 
Have they been delivered yet? What's the quality like? I've been looking at them too but don't want some flimsy crap that'll break or not hold my Gopro secure.

Not yet, should get them this week. I wasn't sure about the non genuine clamps/mounts etc but the one thing I've broken was a genuine gopro j-hook buckle!

That kit comes with the 3m stickypads, same ones as gopro use too so they should be ok.
 
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