What did you do to your bike today?

just another question

do i add high temp sealer, wait to for it to dry then do up the clamps or add the high temp sealer and do up the clamps straight away?
 
My plan for this weekend is to hopefully manage to separate the front caliper brackets from the calipers then replace the old calipers with some nice new gold ones and replace the stock hose with some braided lines, then mess about with the mounting of my rear line I thought I was being sensible putting the banjo between the lock tabs on the rear MC but Suzuki did not design it like that for the SV and it should actually be off at an angle so I'll fiddle about with that and hopefully get a nicer routing for that line.

I need to replace the bolt holding my shift arm to the rod as that's getting dangerously close to rounding off.

Full oil and filter change.

Copper slip any bolt I can get my hands on, and replace all my engine casing bolts with some nice new SS ones from Chewys Stuff if they arrive tomorrow.

I might even finally get round to wrapping up my front indy connectors to stop the dash lights going a bit funny when they get really wet as I'll probably take some of the front end off to make routing the brake lines easier.

Also need to check my horn, went to use it for the first time in anger this morning and nothing probably just needs a good spray of WD40 in the switch and a bit of working.

I think that about sums up my weekend plan, along with the obligatory test ride afterwards to make sure it doesn't fall apart.
 
lmfy2k said:
just another question

do i add high temp sealer, wait to for it to dry then do up the clamps or add the high temp sealer and do up the clamps straight away?
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Put it on and fit exhaust,do up the clamps straight away,then leave it to go off,the heat of the exhaust will harden it further

@tom my horn wires are forever corroding,breaking off check those first
 
Cheers I'll have a look when I'm down there doing the oil, normally just resort to a rev and hand signals anyway but had an urge to beep the daft bint this morning.
 
Dogbreath said:
High temperature silicone sealer works a lot better for slip joints on bike exhaust than the horrible gunk you use on car exhausts that sets like concrete.

The copper based stuff is fine.
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You're right you know so Cheers for the Correction, I didn't need it when fitting my Delkovic.
edd1e said:
Looks great, although i'm not sure on the Mad Max inspired headlight guard :D
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He's right, Bike looks great but I'd lose the head light guard.
lmfy2k said:
just another question

do i add high temp sealer, wait to for it to dry then do up the clamps or add the high temp sealer and do up the clamps straight away?
Click to expand...

I'd just put a tiny amount at the joint end as when you slide the two together it will get pushed up towards the can & you don't want any coming out to where you/everybody can see it. Wish I could explain that better.

As for me all I've done is sort my "Custom" plate out, Got that fine rain in the air around here so the roads are going to be well greasy. :(
 
Just back this morning from a 300 mile trip on the S1000RR.
I have discovered:
1) The heated grips are great. Turn them on early as it's already too late if your fingers are feeling cold.
2) Seat is comfortable.
3) The throttle has a sensor that detects when you push pass the "closed" position and disables the cruise control. Neat.
4) Metz M7RRs feel slightly odd in the freezing cold and damp when turning at low speeds. Almost like the tyre is rolling off the rim. Fine when warm.
5) Cold Metz M7RRs spin up surprisingly easily firing out of damp roundabouts.
5a) TC is excellent firing out of damp roundabouts. Pin and grin.
6) Top gear roll-on stomp at motorway speeds is simply epic.
7) Optimum motorway cruising speed is 6500rpm (92mph) upwards. 6K means vibes and numb hands.
8) Pops and crackles (stock can) when rolling on and off the throttle are effective for prompting friendly drivers to give you space when filtering.
 
CGrieves said:
Just back this morning from a 300 mile trip on the S1000RR.
I have discovered:
1) The heated grips are great. Turn them on early as it's already too late if your fingers are feeling cold.
2) Seat is comfortable.
3) The throttle has a sensor that detects when you push pass the "closed" position and disables the cruise control. Neat.
4) Metz M7RRs feel slightly odd in the freezing cold and damp when turning at low speeds. Almost like the tyre is rolling off the rim. Fine when warm.
5) Cold Metz M7RRs spin up surprisingly easily firing out of damp roundabouts.
5a) TC is excellent firing out of damp roundabouts. Pin and grin.
6) Top gear roll-on stomp at motorway speeds is simply epic.
7) Optimum motorway cruising speed is 6500rpm (92mph) upwards. 6K means vibes and numb hands.
8) Pops and crackles (stock can) when rolling on and off the throttle are effective for prompting friendly drivers to give you space when filtering.
Click to expand...

It's an epic bike full stop. With an AR can on it sounds like a Group B rally schlag with anti lag, inside my helmet I am ----> :D
 
I just can't help but feel the S1000R lacks some excitement/occasion. It's why I'll probably be going for an Aprilia Tuono V4 instead.
 
Belly pan arrived in the post just now, it's going to take a bit of thought and jigsaw talent to work out which brackets go where and how it attaches to the bike.
 
Kreeeee said:
Not all exhausts and bikes are designed the same. The Street Triple needs the crushable gaskets for example for any exhaust to work.
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Dogbreath said:
I didn't use sealant on my brand new Akrapovic full system, and it leaked. A tiny amount of high temp sealer and it was perfect.

That said you shouldn't use non "sensor safe" silicone sealer if the exhaust system has an oxygen sensor since standard silicone ruins the sensors when it's burnt.
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My bike is old though, it doesn't even have a sensor or catalytic converters. Its a straight through. :p
 
Finally finished all the work on the bike and picked it up this morning, it's an animal :D been out for a 100 mile run this afternoon and loved every minute of it.

Here is a list of all the work performed

Engine Work

Check / Clean Injectors (New Gaskets and O-Rings Were Required)
Check & Balance Throttle Bodies at Aprilia Performance
Install K&N Air Filter
Install EVO Airbox
Install Power Commander PC5
Mapping & Dyno Work at PCR Performance

Dyno Results – 133.11 Bhp / 74.01 ft·lb Torque

New / Used * Parts

Titanium Oval Scorpion Exhausts (CF Tips)
Ohlins Rear Shock *
Aprilia Performance Rear Sets *
Brembo RCS 19 Front Brake Master Cylinder
RSV4 Rear Brake Master Cylinder *
Brembo RCS 16 Clutch Master Cylinder
Oberon Clutch Slave
Carbon Fibre - Tank Infills, Rear Hugger, Front Mud Guard, Seat Cowl & Air Deflectors *
Front & Rear Titanium Brake Calliper Bolts & Axle Nuts

Maintenance

DID Chain & Talon Sprockets (15T 42T)
Ohlins Fork Service - Seals & Oil
SBS Street Excel Brake Pads (Front & Rear)
Replace Bulbs H11 (Low – CREE XHP50 LED Kit / High - Philips Crystal Vision)
Replace Battery
Replace Coolant (Silkolene Pro Cool All Season Engine Coolant)
Replace Brake / Clutch Fluid – (Motul RBF 600 Dot 4 Fully Synthetic)
Replace Oil / Filter (Repsol 10w50 Fully Synthetic)
Replace Indicator Lenses (Front & Rear)
Replace perished fuel hose
Clean & ACF50 Engine

IMG_20160318_124831.jpg


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IMG_20160318_124916.jpg


IMG_20160318_124937.jpg


Chris
 
TallPaul_S said:
Awesome :cool:

That's not 133bhp at the wheel, is it...? :eek:

You could do with some Ti rear disc bolts though, letting the side down there with the rusty ones :D
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Thanks guys,

Yep 133 bhp at the back wheel :D

Dyno.jpg


Yes I'll probably change them all over the summer, I'm just happy I have it back :)

Chris
 
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Yeah they only changed the intake stacks for longer ones on the T, as you say, to favour low down torque over high rpm bhp. Which is good :D

Going to look at a Tuono Factory tomorrow with the correct gold wheels (08 model), to see if it's worth waiting for an 08 or later factory at the right price to pop up (this one's a bit much at £6500, only done 5k miles though).
 
TallPaul_S said:
Yeah they only changed the intake stacks for longer ones on the T, as you say, to favour low down torque over high rpm bhp. Which is good :D

Going to look at a Tuono Factory tomorrow with the correct gold wheels (08 model), to see if it's worth waiting for an 08 or later factory at the right price to pop up (this one's a bit much at £6500, only done 5k miles though).
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Nice, they are lovely the factories, so much bling lol, just be wary that with that low mileage and age it may have been sat round a lot, best to check all the rubbery bits, fluids and master cylinders as they don't like being left.

Chris
 
Chris said:
Nice, they are lovely the factories, so much bling lol, just be wary that with that low mileage and age it may have been sat round a lot, best to check all the rubbery bits, fluids and master cylinders as they don't like being left.

Chris
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Oh I won't be buying that one, it's overpriced to start with, and looking at the advert in more details - it hasn't even got the correct forged wheels!!! It's got a standard non-factory non-forged set of wheels, painted gold :rolleyes:

I may have to point that out to the dealer :D Either they got a fast one pulled on them, or they're trying to pull fast one...
 
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