What did you do to your bike today?

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The wires used for the Tomtom battery lead are tiny, I can't remember what size terminal I stuck on them but it was the smallest out of the box and even then I had to fold the wire over on itself to get a decent bite down.
 
Looking good, what'e the bill coming to for mods so far? Or do you operate on the same thinking as me that ignorance is bliss :D
 
Looking good, what'e the bill coming to for mods so far? Or do you operate on the same thinking as me that ignorance is bliss :D

:D:D dare not not see the bill, but im keeping all stock parts so if and when time comes to sell i can hopefully make some cash back on them. well one can hope lol

ive got some tyres to go on, need to find a decent place in Manchester that will fit them, may have to go Honda.
 
Any tips on wiring the satnav up to my bike? I thought it would be the same cable that you get when wiring a battery charger up but it's just 2 wires and I'm not sure how to do it.

Easiest way IMO is to find and splice/solder into your horn wires,then you only have power when the ignition is switched on,horn wires are easy to locate
 
Fitted Pro taper bars yesterday, bar ends on order..

Nice!

Question for you- I had a blat on the stepson's Grom, one odd thing I noticed- there's almost no "clonk" when shifting down into first from neutral at a standstill, and also the lever doesn't lock out once it's in first- i.e. in first, foot off, the lever will still flop downwards. The only bike I've owned that was like that was a BMW R1100S, is it the same on yours?

He's been using it to commute for a week now and says it often won't go into first, or will slip out leaving him revving in neutral trying to pull away.
 
The CGs I did my CBT / initial training on had floppy levers. Never had it on any other bike though.

Actually, my Hornet did have it for a few miles when the lever bar thingy that goes from the peg to the clutch was completely dry and needed lubing.
 
Not really to my bike, but me and my mate lifted a CBR600RR for a mate to replace the wheel. The paddock stand was due to arrive the next day, but it was nice and sunny (it would be a waste not to go for a ride) so we held it for him whilst he changed it over. The weight of the front is not that heavy when split between two people. :p

Edit: Also before that, I met a guy with SV650N 04'. Had a small chat about the bikes, he did 2000 miles within 6 years of owning the bike. :eek: I did 1500 within 2 weeks haha :p A little boy was coming past and was waving, saying "I really like your bikes, they're really nice". Let him sit on it and rev it a little... the face he had when he revvd it made my day and his. :D
 
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Stripped all plastics, tank and radiators off the YZ125, it isn't in terrible condition at all, just filthy. Engine out next, need to also look at the rear shock as it clunks when it bounces back up when pushed on... anyone have any thoughts on why?
 
Stripped all plastics, tank and radiators off the YZ125, it isn't in terrible condition at all, just filthy. Engine out next, need to also look at the rear shock as it clunks when it bounces back up when pushed on... anyone have any thoughts on why?

Sounds like the damping **** does it spring back quicker than normal as well as the clunk.
 
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zzr1200rp.jpg


spit and polished the zeadney.

The pic has been edited for print so it may look a little funky :D looks nicer printed on A3.
 
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You probably don't want to wire it up directly to the battery, unless dead batteries fill you with joy. Splice it into a switched ignition feed so there's no drain when the ignition is off.

Unless the satnav is plugged in when the bike is off, there won't be any drain on the battery surely? I'm not leaving the satnav plugged in, it'll come off whenever I get off the bike.
 
4 AWG is huge id expect the wires for your sat nav would be similar to usa so 20+ AWG (maybe as big as 18 if its a high-quality/over speced unit).

so you wont be able to crimp that to the smaller wire, unless your satnav needs 200+ amps :p

Haha yeah my mistake, I'm going to give wazza' suggestion a go, it's not a very long cable so I think the horn will be the best bet.

Easiest way IMO is to find and splice/solder into your horn wires,then you only have power when the ignition is switched on,horn wires are easy to locate

Cheers, located the horn wire and it seems simple enough, will give it a go today when I finish.
 
Haha yeah my mistake, I'm going to give wazza' suggestion a go, it's not a very long cable so I think the horn will be the best bet.



Cheers, located the horn wire and it seems simple enough, will give it a go today when I finish.

Look up positaps


One on the end of each qire and splice direct into the horn wires that way.

No tools, no fuss 5 miniutes job
 
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