What did you do to your bike today?

I don't worry about leaving my satnav plugged in as I'll never leave it on the bike unless I'm actually on it using it, If I get off the bike even to pop in the shops or when I've pulled onto my own drive & am popping in teh house for something I still take it off & stick it in my pocket. It only clips on & off & fits in a pocket nicely anyways & stops me leaving it on the bike when I plug the bike up for the night as I like to have my satnav indoors as I use it on my car as well & like to plug it in to my Laptop & sort routes out etc
 
Mine doesn't even get left on when I fill up, takes all of 5 seconds to slide it off the mount so it would be gone in a blink if someone fancied it.

Unless I'm using pay at the pump obviously :p
 
Clov!s said:
Unless the satnav is plugged in when the bike is off, there won't be any drain on the battery surely? I'm not leaving the satnav plugged in, it'll come off whenever I get off the bike.
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If the satnav uses an "active mount" like the TomTom, then there is a power supply built in that draws current all the time. The USB power adapters for bikes are the same, they draw some current as soon as they are connected to the battery, irrespective of whether anything is plugged into them.
 
Dogbreath said:
If the satnav uses an "active mount" like the TomTom, then there is a power supply built in that draws current all the time. The USB power adapters for bikes are the same, they draw some current as soon as they are connected to the battery, irrespective of whether anything is plugged into them.
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Mine doesn't for my tomtom rider 5, and I've checked it with a multi meter. If the new ones do them that's just another reason to avoid the crap tomtom rider 40/400.
 
Engine out. CRF250R behind it waiting to be ridden
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This came through for the CBR. K&N air filter and airbox and scoop. Made sense to grab it all like this as the jubilee clips and airbox screws on mine are shot away. Plus I got the whole lot for £50 delivered :D

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Gave the front and rear calipers a proper clean as the front lever was going a little soft again. I'll have to keep an eye on how often I have to clean them, it's not a hard or particularly long job (calipers off, pads out, pistons pushed out with a 19mm spanner in between them to prevent them coming all the way out, clean, push pistons back in, 2nd clean, then refit everything, then repeat for the other side) but just a pain if I have to do it every 4-6 weeks. I might buy a pair of refurbish calipers before winter if it gets too regular, as my pistons aren't the greatest condition.

The rear caliper was in a right state, dirty as hell! Pads are starting to look a little low so will probably need a new pair at the end of summer.
 
I did before, but re-used the pistons and seals and just gave the pistons a good clean up.

I'll have to look up the cost of new pistons, they're not cheap!

Edit: The brakes work perfectly fine, it's just after while the lever gets not as firm, the first bit of movement doesn't do anything - the pistons are retracting back in a mm or so after the lever is released.
 
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A few newbie questions here...

I de-baffled my bike (akro exhaust), and there's a lot of popping on deceleration. Someone suggested that this could be due to the bike now running lean.

I'm going to check my plugs tomorrow to see if there's any signs there.

If it is running lean, is it a case of rejetting to a bigger jet size? I've watched a few vids on this and it seems pretty straight forward. Can you get jet kits, or are they bike specific? Also, how'd you know what jet size to use - trial and error?

Also, if you rejet, do you have to do anything with the needle?

This is all new to me, but am happy to have a mess/play :p.
 
Not sure but how can it run lean by changing the baffle?

Your bikes probably fuel injected,so would need a power commander v and a remap

Personally I wouldn't worry
 
I'm not sure either - the guy who suggested it said lack of back pressure due to removing the baffle? Although someone else said he was talking **** :D.

Perhaps I'm looking for reasons to mess with things? :D.
 
It's more than likely the Secondary Air System (SAS) that you're hearing on the overrun, loads of bikes have it.

The only way to stop it is to get a kit which comprises of blanking plates and hose blocks so you can do away with the SAS.
 
TallPaul_S said:
Edit: The brakes work perfectly fine, it's just after while the lever gets not as firm, the first bit of movement doesn't do anything - the pistons are retracting back in a mm or so after the lever is released.
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Are you certain that you haven't either bent a disc or the caliper mount on the forks? That's the usual cause of this kind of problem. Also check that the bobbins on the floating disc are free.
 
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