What did you do to your bike today?

I would say they have gotten better in that it doesnt fall apart as soon as it's in your hands. The rubber on my OEM 'replacement' mirror is already degrading and it's only been on the bike since December
 
Got it running (surprisingly easy) after two years sat.
However rear calliper is seized and sheared a bolt off. :( so think I'll just have to suck it up and get a returned one. Only slightly more than a rebuild kit and wouldn't have to drill and probably tap bolt.

Lights and everything else seem to work. Only thing that might fail not is very slight leak on front shocks.
 
Or pack some rag or similar under the dust seals to soak up any oil that's escaping, again - they're not allowed to remove/mess about with stuff on your bike.

Although 'list misting' on the fork leg is only an advisory I believe.
 
Cleaned up the sv, lubed chain, checked all bulbs and checked oil/coolant ready to put it up for sale.

It's 53 plate with FSH, 33k miles. Bewolf exhaust, belly pan, hugger, braided hoses all round, short levers and full front brake overhaul including MC. Oh, TB balanced along with valve clearances checked. Good condition, part from few scuffs here and there with few marks (13 years old), needs a new rear tyres but legal. Price would reflect all this. Would £1400 sound reasonable?
 
That sounds like a fair and sensible price. Unlike some of the delusional people who think their 17 year old curvy is worth £1800 because it's clean and tidy :confused:
 
tom_e said:
That sounds like a fair and sensible price. Unlike some of the delusional people who think their 17 year old curvy is worth £1800 because it's clean and tidy :confused:
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I seen that when I was looking to buy an sv. Some people are crazy!!

Honda cbr600f hold there prices well, can be looking at 2k plus for an 03 plate.
 
Renthal dual compound grips and useless mirrors which came off after 15 min. :p

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Changed my side lights out for some shorter led ones so they're not pressing on the lens, adjusted my clutch and adjusted my chain.

The wd40 chain wax still leaves a good old mess behind the front sprocket cover but it's a nice soft easily cleanable mess unlike the muc off stuff that was like extra sticky tar and needed scraping off with a screw driver.
 
Glaucus said:
Only thing that might fail not is very slight leak on front shocks.
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Get some thin flexible plastic, cut a strip and push it down inside the fork seal and carefully scrape round the fork leg. This can stop the leak if it's caused by debris stuck inside the rim of the seal. Usually once the seals start to leak the end is nigh, but this can buy you a little time.
 
Fireskull said:
Got mine too, nowhere near as sticky as the Kevlars, I will fit them after my holiday now though. :)
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Its a massive improvement over the heated grips and R6 OEM ones that I had afterwards. I always wanted grey grips on my bike for some strange reason, maybe because I saw them on track bikes I thought they looked 'cool'? :p

I'm happy with these, when these wear out I'll try out the kevlar grips. But for now these are a big improvement. :cool:

Edit
I run out of motul chain lube, I've the castrol stuff that some of you lot recommended. The motul chain lube was good, that can lasted a pretty long time. :) Now its time to see how the castrol stuff compares...
 
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The joys of an eletrical issue!
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Stripped some wire out of an old laptop charger to feed from the spades to the replacement indicator relay (prev owner changed the connections) and tested but still stops working over 3K revs....

Bought a 2nd hand loom from the bay. This one has so many repairs/bodges and an alarm has been removed from it as well. Not to mention the scorching of the wires due to one of the alternator wires arcing against the frame
 
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