What have you done to your car today?

Looking at the car market, what you have plus some maintenance is probably the better option unless you need to change due to circumstance. Better the devil you know and all that.

That too, there is really nothing else i want, and anything that i want is twice as much as what my car is worth at least....like a Audi S3 or TTS or 130i or 135i, all of which will not be that much newer and have no idea of their true history. At least I know mine and I do have 12 months to plan the maintenance of the suspension.
 
Got the quote from the garage...To do the suspension work refresh on all 4 corners, labour, VAT and MOT, £1973 ! Not including 4 new tyres.

I am going to do the stuff like the CV boot and tires now i think to pass the MOT for next month and 4 tyres which will be about £800 all in and think about whether i want to drop like £1500 into the car or trade it for something else...I really like the car too!

Logic tells me just save up and get it done, as it runs perfectly and the work is just wear and tear items but it's a hard pill to swallow.

That seems like a lot. Are they taking into account the fact that they'll have it all apart or are they doing what some garages do and just adding up the book times for each job and presenting you with the bill?
 
That seems like a lot. Are they taking into account the fact that they'll have it all apart or are they doing what some garages do and just adding up the book times for each job and presenting you with the bill?

I only spoke to them, rather than a paper break down. Going to do the CV boot thing and MOT first, about £300 now.

Then chew on the suspension for a few months and save up for it and ask them for a more detailed quote.
 
@Raymond Lin
As you know, I was looking out for C30 T5s for a while. If maintained, they're only increasing in value now.

Yeah, they are indeed, I will get it done...I am just in shock at the moment at the number lol.

Tyres first and the stuff to pass the MOT then £1500 to do it in the summer. It would be a easier pill mentally, than £2500 in 1 lump.
 
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I only spoke to them, rather than a paper break down. Going to do the CV boot thing and MOT first, about £300 now.

Then chew on the suspension for a few months and save up for it and ask them for a more detailed quote.
Deffo worth the repair.
I just can't trust an old used car these days. Most people just don't keep up with maintenance and do shoddy repairs. Buy new as possible and keep for long and repair.

I'll be keeping my mini till electric is the only real option.
 
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Deffo worth the repair.
I just can't trust an old used car these days. Most people just don't keep up with maintenance and do shoddy repairs. Buy new as possible and keep for long and repair.

I'll be keeping my mini till electric is the only real option.

I’ve kept up with maintenance on it religiously.

Service every year even during covid.
Timing Belt and water pump already done.
Gearbox oil changed.
Did the windscreen reseal on the car as it’s a common fault.
New battery fitted during covid.

Everything I use on it is OEM or nearest to. There’s no modifications. The drive train has never let me down, all the buttons work.

it would be silly to throw all that down the pan and roll the dice on another used car.
 
if they're doing a cv boot(s?) will they disconnect control arms ... & some of stuff front suspension refresh would also require ... front now ? back later ?
e: and once its on the lift maybe doing back too is more labour efficient.
 
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Deffo worth the repair.
I just can't trust an old used car these days. Most people just don't keep up with maintenance and do shoddy repairs. Buy new as possible and keep for long and repair.

I'll be keeping my mini till electric is the only real option.

Sadly true - most people spend the least possible to get the job "good enough" without care to the long term outcome and are quite happy to shift issues on to someone else - many used cars they've managed to hide something away, which has prompted them to sell it, just long enough for it to move on and you'll likely find the reality of it a few weeks later :(

I tend to find it better to go for cars which on the basis of history and age are likely at the end of the finance period and hence handed back for something newer, though they aren't always the best looked after that is generally consumables/cosmetics rather than something more major. Also more likely the dealer will do more work to get them ready for sale with the hope you'll continue to have it serviced, etc. through them and sell it/px again through them as they can use that as a selling point to get more money for a car.
 
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There are a few backgrounds to choose from but not sure there's a total black one. They all seem to be gradients I think.

Edit: looks like there is:
"Solid colour" - Perfect! I just wish these displays came in OLED format but can understand why they don't, always the same text in the same place, screen burn would be a nightmare!
 
"Solid colour" - Perfect! I just wish these displays came in OLED format but can understand why they don't, always the same text in the same place, screen burn would be a nightmare!

Shame car displays often have thick constant plain colours lines or they could use a pixel shifting/orbiting algorithm fairly seamlessly without the annoyances it can have on TVs, etc.
 
Got the quote from the garage...To do the suspension work refresh on all 4 corners, labour, VAT and MOT, £1973 ! Not including 4 new tyres.

I am going to do the stuff like the CV boot and tires now i think to pass the MOT for next month and 4 tyres which will be about £800 all in and think about whether i want to drop like £1500 into the car or trade it for something else...I really like the car too!

Logic tells me just save up and get it done, as it runs perfectly and the work is just wear and tear items but it's a hard pill to swallow.

It's the labour that chews into everything.

I did my Saab 9-5 at the back end of 2020. Brand new everything and Eibach springs to lower it a little more. All bushes and rose joints replaced as well. Car was on 130K at the time but the difference was night and day. Just replaced all the gear linkage bushes and the car basically feels brand new with its drivetrain. I think I paid somewhere in the region of £650-£700 for everything and fitted myself. Only problem was it blew piston number 4 shortly after smoking an Audi A7 off a slip road and then needed welding at the M.O.T but has been solid for the past 2 years now. It is a bit like triggers broom now however!

LzKdiy3.jpeg
 
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I did my Saab 9-5 at the back end of 2020.
any metal work/control arms with sealed joints ... as you imply, you have the gear spring compressors, hydaulic press... how many hours do you think it took.

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( there was a bmw refresh list/spreadsheet posted a while back ... don't remember the total.
e:post I was thinking of

I bought from a combination of eBay and Autodoc. The Autodoc prices change daily; I'd advise using the app and keeping a wishlist to easily see which day of the week is cheapest.

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)
 
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any metal work/control arms with sealed joints ... as you imply, you have the gear spring compressors, hydaulic press... how many hours do you think it took.

---
( there was a bmw refresh list/spreadsheet posted a while back ... don't remember the total. )

Yeah I have my own press, spring compressors, bush tools etc but they have all paid for themselves in the amount of labour saved over the years. Problem is everyone PM's me to do their cars so it is not all roses!
 
What's the going rate for wheel refurbs that I should be looking at? Kerbed and peeling, so full refurb required.
Also need all 4 calipers doing too, likely places do both?
 
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I have now had my gash seen to, i.e. had that tyre replaced, and now it drives slightly weird with one new tyre and the other three with 7k miles of wear on them :p
 
Not by me, but I picked up the refurbished transmission for my Evo 9 on Monday.

My 9 is a GT so has the 5 speed box and there's quite a gap between 4th and 5th. The 'box has been rebuilt with GSR 3rd and 4th for a more linear approach.

Transfer case - this was a fun one. When removed we found the case itself had been cracked and chemical welded. Once apart the damage internally was such that the case was scrap. Fortunately, the guy that rebuilt the 'box had a spare.

Rear diff - also revealed some suprises. Although the GT and RS models have Active Centre Diff or ACD, they don't have Active Yaw Control or AYC. The come with a plated diff. The plated diff apparently is almost always incorrectly setup from factory. Once removed from the housing and dismantled, the diff was found to have had 2 more plates than it should have. These aftermarket plates were removed and the diff rebuilt.

Inside the transfer case
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Rebuilt transfer case
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Rebuilt rear diff
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Freshly built gearset
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Bonus points for refurbished ACD pump and other bits and bobs
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