What have you done to your car today?

bainbridge said:
After emptying the wheel well and drying it, there was no clear sign of water ingress
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3 series touring boot where I've seen some water in rear battery tray+spare wheel, I've assumed it was the surprisingly high up slatted ventilation panel behind rear wheel well, on rear 1/4
and can cause amplifier destruction if you have one their.
e: I do always park with rear downhill on drive, too.
 
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Armageus said:
Not a Ford Focus Mk3 by any chance? Common problem with vents behind the rear bumper leaking
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I had a slammed EK hatch years ago, and it soaked the rear seats due to those vents/the ride height in heavily rain/long journeys, so I sealed them up, years later I found out, where it was a hatchback, it could have smashed the rear window when shutting the doors/boot due to the vacuum inside the car haha, never did though and I ran a big amp/sub.
 
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Armageus said:
Not a Ford Focus Mk3 by any chance? Common problem with vents behind the rear bumper leaking
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It's an Astra, but I think that you and @jpaul might be onto something.

She got back from work today, and it had been raining in the afternoon, and water was in there again! Only about a quarter of a cupful, but it was there.

I found a damp area right at the back where the wheel well meets the rear boot lip, and it's covered by the trim around the boot area.

If there is a vent in the area it may well be the culprit.

I'll need to investigate further.
 
same issue with the mrs' skoda fabia, umpteen visits back to the dealer over the years never solved it, just dried it out and replaced any water damaged parts (usually the boot floor/carpet)
used to fill up to the top of the spare wheel well.
The vents either side of the rear bumper were undamaged but just not a watertight fit - some high temp range automotive sealant to reseat them and presto! no leaks :)
been 2 years now and not a drop.
You'll probably find it builds up in the rear corners and then overflows into the wheel well.
 
I despised my car today after being taken around the track in one of these today, it was a free treat from ConnectWise at Mercedes-Benz world.

ohcisef.jpeg


I did feel sick afterwards though :o

I still like my Civic 1.4
 
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- Changed the gearbox oil to a better quality Millers product.
- Fitted a firmer STI transmission mount.

The result is that the already good gear shift has been noticeably improved. Job ended up being a bit of a ball ache; should be very quick to change the mount once you're under the car, but the front pipe is in the way of two of the bolts. Was running out of time to do it properly and remove the front pipe, but I was also too stubborn and didn't want to have to come back another time, jack the car up again, etc. So I persevered and by just unbolting it from the mid pipe, was able to get enough movement to just get access to the bolts.
 
Dreaded “Loss of Pressure” popped up this morning therefore I’ve checked all pressures and topped them up to correct values.

It had only slightly dropped below the threshold, perhaps due to cold weather so thankfully seems no puncture is present.

Famous last words most likely!
 
Installed a Puzu C7 DSP. I'd already upgraded the speakers to a set of Focals, but they were still being driven by the stock HU. I'm not a big audiophile, so not interested in chasing perfection, but another owner gave a recommendation on the Puzu unit as being fairly inexpensive, easy to install, and much more capable of driving the Focals and giving better equalisation. Took a punt on it, and first impressions are that it was definitely worth it; even without adjusting the equaliser, the Focals were already sounding richer and fuller straight from the off.

I don't really want to get into a full on overhaul of the audio system, but it's hard to argue with the improvement for just £300 and 90 minutes or so of work total.
 
Got bored of the Mini showing me the car on the ramp icon as soon as I put the key in.

No services are due and the handbook says this could either be an electrical or fuel fault, or brake control issue

No brake issue, car runs fine (so no fuel issue that I know of, and have replaced the **** ring fuel filler seal)

Have ordered a new battery as it's on the 12 year old original BMW Exide, so seems like a good starting point to rule out electrical issues.
 
well used this pic in gd purchases thread so may as well use again, did the oil and filter, had to purchase a 32mm filter socket (my old car was 38mm) this is the correct vw spec, is mobil 1 better ? dunno
I used the suction method and did this for a quarter of a million miles plus on the last car, its so easy, the standard way makes me want to take to a garage, then i cant see what's going in .
anyway a quick look on youtube helped me to reset the service message

IMG20231016163819.jpg
 
Not this week but been a bit busy to post...

Took it for MOT. Fail.

Got told it was rotten in 3 corners and advisory on the 4th.

Decided against buying a welder and taking forever to learn and do it myself - went to a local body shop with good reputation. Quoted £400 which was about what I'd hoped before I do it myself. Booked up til JANUARY. Booooo :(

Looks like I won't be driving it at all this year. Guess I've got 3 months to sort everything else out. Gear selector cables feel terrible, throttle/pedal is sticky, clutch is stiff and quite vague... Battery is knackered. Oil filler bottle bracket snapped. Needs a good thorough restorative clean inside and out as full of leaves and crap. Lots to do I guess.

Gory shots:




 
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