What "man jobs" have you done today?

How much insulation is required? I presume that you want thermal insulation rather than acoustic and that it's an external wall?

Things like JackoBoard, NoMorePly, Wedi Board offer a degree if insulation but not on the level a dedicated product would.

You can get 50mm thick Wedi board for example but it isn't cheap in that thickness! As you mentioned it's not really useful for a painted surface.

Seeing as it's a wall where only the sink will live you can consider water resistant materials rather than waterproof. If you wanted to be over cautious you could always tank the area around the sink and splashback.

If it's were you I'd probably use something like British Gypsum ThermaLine which has a water resistant version.

https://www.british-gypsum.com/products/gyproc-thermaline-pir-mr?tab0=0
 
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Sin_Chase said:
How much insulation is required? I presume that you want thermal insulation rather than acoustic and that it's an external wall?

Things like JackoBoard, NoMorePly, Wedi Board offer a degree if insulation but not on the level a dedicated product would.

You can get 50mm thick Wedi board for example but it isn't cheap in that thickness! As you mentioned it's not really useful for a painted surface.

Seeing as it's a wall where only the sink will live you can consider water resistant materials rather than waterproof. If you wanted to be over cautious you could always tank the area around the sink and splashback.

If it's were you I'd probably use something like British Gypsum ThermaLine which has a water resistant version.

https://www.british-gypsum.com/products/gyproc-thermaline-pir-mr?tab0=0
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Thanks for the input.

As with most internal insulation job I am conscious of losing space but also trying to get the best thermal insulation in the space available. I considered 'Marmoxing' all the wall surfaces but was aware (as you touched on) that this wouldn't give me as much insulation compared to using a dedicated product and overboarding with a thinner layer of Marmox.

E.g.
1.38 with dedicated product compared to 0.83 all Marmox
2.43 compared to 1.67

What real life difference in terms of heat retention that would make I do not know however.

I've read you can skim straight onto Marmox, so that could be an option. Skim the top half, tile the bottom half. Or use a PIR board like you've suggested. From a quick calculation, the Marmox works out a tad cheaper, but not by much, and offers the same insulative property. I'm erring on the side or Marmox just to be safe.
 
Why are you burning it and not taking it to a recycling centre? Your neighbours must love you :p

I replaced the fascia on my garage today. It was cheap plastic before and had been painted which was peeling off.. generally rough condition. Replaced the front with new PVC piece and going to do the side when the 4m piece arrives next week. Ideally I would like to replace the timber behind it as its rotting, but it'll mean unpicking the roof felt, so will leave that until I need to replace the roof I think.

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Still got to get a new door really. Original late 70s one still.
 
Duke said:
Why are you burning it and not taking it to a recycling centre? Your neighbours must love you :p
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The local authority have closed one local one which has meant travelling further plus I need to sort out a permit because I drive a commercial vehicle plus they have limited it to three bags of building materials per day. They seem to be making it as difficult as possible :mad:
 
Maccapacca said:
The local authority have closed one local one which has meant travelling further plus I need to sort out a permit because I drive a commercial vehicle plus they have limited it to three bags of building materials per day. They seem to be making it as difficult as possible :mad:
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You're a builder, so sort out the permit :confused: Or just continue annoying everyone in the area with your obnoxious fumes in true selfless builder style.
 
Participant said:
Whatever you are, have you thought about the impact your fires are having on people in your vicinity? Not very 'biodynamic' is it.

Doesn't want nitrates in bacon but quite happy to smoke out the neighbours with carcinogenic fumes!
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I wouldn't be doing it if the neighbours minded. We all have open fires and bonfires. No one round here is particularly triggered.
 
Finished cement boarding, boxing out the window was the last bit and a bit of a mare. Nothing was straight or true so had to use a mix of ply and packers to get everything straight (As straight as possible anyway!)

As for the ceiling, sanded down the last of my ham fisted jointing compound and then primed/sealed it all ready to be primed (paint) then painted with waterproof bathroom stuff.

Next up... priming, sealing and making dams for the subfloor ready to pour self leveling compound.

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flat_reno_bathroom_nov11_2.jpg
 
Maccapacca said:
The local authority have closed one local one which has meant travelling further plus I need to sort out a permit because I drive a commercial vehicle plus they have limited it to three bags of building materials per day. They seem to be making it as difficult as possible :mad:
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think yourself lucky you get three bags a day, here in norfolk if you want to get rid of any building material from diy projects you have to pay when you take it to the dump. needless to say fly tipping has increased because of these charges which where originally introduced i believe to cover the cost of cleaning up fly tipping
 
How much was that cement board ? Wasted opportunity for Marmox and improved insulation there

Are you adding underfloor heating. Ideal if you embed it in the self leveller.
 
Simon said:
How much was that cement board ? Wasted opportunity for Marmox and improved insulation there

Are you adding underfloor heating. Ideal if you embed it in the self leveller.
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I considered insulation backer boards but went with cementitious for a number of reasons. Primarily as none of the extruded/other stuff I have available in my local merchnats has been tested on studwork and couldn't offer any technical specification for tile loading in that application. I've insulated external walls with a separate product. The cement boards are comparable in price to other products. Around 8 quid a sheet.

I wqs going to use underfloor but decided against it. Will heat the room with a suitably matched towel rail / radiator.

If it was my bathroom I'd throw UFH in but it's going to be rented. I'd have needed to do other supportive work to make UFH worthwhile, including insulating the ceiling below.
 
Sounds decent price then I guess for the boards. I think I paid £250 for enough marmox to do the room. I did use in studwork

Different view when you make for a rental but ufh would be for warm tiles rather than heating. Can see why u didn’t though.

Good job so far.
 
Do you mind me asking where you got your WBP Ply from for you floor @Sin_Chase ? Where from and how much?

I'm just trying to source the ply floor and timber battens for the walls now and struggling to find a suppler. Especially for the battens, they all seem to be awkward dimensions and not everywhere sells what I want at a decent price. I'll probably need to pay a visit to the local timber merchant and source a decent sized vehicle.
 
Started a deep clean and strip down of the tub yesterday. It's been 14months since we changed out the water and the only reason it needed doing now was down to the shiny face paint sprinkles/stars that came off everyone during our fireworks party the other weekend. Aqua Finesse chemicals rock :D

Completed:
- Full Drain and removal of all jets.
- Soaked all jets in vinegar/water combo overnight and freed up the ones full of grit and old bits of plastic (some I think are still the 1995 original jets so are shedding a little).
- Cleaned out and wet vac'd the tub and all jet/filter holes.
- Full clean disinfect of the main shell.
- Clean-up of the pump and management system area, cleaning all plumbing connections and replacing seals if required.
- Full disinfect of the insulated cover.

All filled now and will take about 30hrs to warm up to temperature. Currently de-rated down to a 13A plug as I haven't run the new 2.5mm cable (32A) spur back to the box for the sparky to connect up, hence the long time to warm up.

The old cedar step is completely rotted away so I'll be building a new one this week out of spare decking boards and painting in black wood paint to match the painted cedar outer cladding on the tub itself.

View attachment uevwnLo.jpg

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topgun06 said:
Do you mind me asking where you got your WBP Ply from for you floor @Sin_Chase ? Where from and how much?

I'm just trying to source the ply floor and timber battens for the walls now and struggling to find a suppler. Especially for the battens, they all seem to be awkward dimensions and not everywhere sells what I want at a decent price. I'll probably need to pay a visit to the local timber merchant and source a decent sized vehicle.
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I don't live on the mainland so can't really recommend a specific place. I just shopped around my local builders merchants.

WBP should be widely stocked and available, same with timber for battens. You have to inspect timber lengths to make sure they ain't massively warped either, especially if you want a plumb wall.

My ply was 18mm thick as it was making up a subfloor. Around 45 quid for an 8x4ft sheet. You should consider 24mm ply depending on the size of your floor, joists, joist centres and other factors. It's 50% more expensive again, It's not cheap....

8x4foot is a pretty standard size for sheet material. You'll probably not find it widely stocked in smaller sizes outside of DIY shops really. My 2x2 lengths were over 4m....suffice to say I got delivery!
 
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