What "man jobs" have you done today?

dLockers said:
I had a sparks in who reckoned the cable was up to 100amp.

To be honest though, car chargers are a total rip off and pretty crap still - and we are surviving on a 3 pin plug - so I might get consumer unit + an outdoor 13amp socket fitted and be happy from there.
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Should have got one before March then they were only 600 or so. There's no issue charge on a granny plug, I did it to start with but I limited it to 8A as I'd heard some bad stories. Obviously depending on how much driving you do, you might not be able to charge enough (I only do 32 miles a day so can go 4 days between charges using my 32 amp, but one of colleagues does 100 miles a day so he plugs in every day with a 32amp).
 
dLockers said:
I had a sparks in who reckoned the cable was up to 100amp.

To be honest though, car chargers are a total rip off and pretty crap still - and we are surviving on a 3 pin plug - so I might get consumer unit + an outdoor 13amp socket fitted and be happy from there.
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Should have got one before March then they were only 600 or so. There's no issue charge on a granny plug, I did it to start with but I limited it to 8A as I'd heard some bad stories. Obviously depending on how much driving you do, you might not be able to charge enough (I only do 32 miles a day so can go 4 days between charges using my 32 p but one of colleagues does 100 miles a day so he plugs in every day with a 32amp).
 
The issue with the granny plugs is that they make it hard to take advantage of time of use tariffs because you can’t charge the car fast enough in the cheap period.

As for the fuse, if it’s currently on 60A and they can’t go up to 100A, they’ll usually put in an 80A which is a lot better than 60A.
 
I'm perfectly content with granny charger. In fact to save the cash I'll probably just get an outdoor 13amp socket on its own circuit. It only gets used 10 miles a day and occasionally on the weekend.
 
Fitted timber to the rear of the media wall to support the mantle.


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Three structural screw in both ends and the the two braces there in the middle.


ANv5OMu_d.webp

This has now justified the Dewalt cordless, laser level and assortment of saws and screws I’ve accumulated whilst we waited to move in.

Was very close to a Dewalt circular saw whilst picking up the timber…it would have made the cut easier than the jigsaw after all!

Also borrowed my dad’s electric plane to make the dinning room door slide smoothly as it was catching on the floor.
 
Bottom of one of our fence posts had rotted out at the base. Snapped in the recent high winds. Spent ages digging it out and breaking up the postcrete.

Will need one more bag of postcrete to top up but otherwise new posts is in! Hopefully both fence panels will go back in, split the distance for the 1.8m panels close enough....i hope!

I suspect the entire fence will nwed replacing at some point as some of the other posts looking suspect.

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Sin_Chase said:
Bottom of one of our fence posts had rotted out at the base. Snapped in the recent high winds. Spent ages digging it out and breaking up the postcrete.

Will need one more bag of postcrete to top up but otherwise new posts is in! Hopefully both fence panels will go back in, split the distance for the 1.8m panels close enough....i hope!

I suspect the entire fence will nwed replacing at some point as some of the other posts looking suspect.

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That's a smart arrangement! Don't think I've had to set a fence post in concrete so haven't had the pleasure of figuring out how to stabilise it...
 
Possibly not what you want to hear, but I would have gone for s concrete post and nit have to worry snymore, mainly as you say the rest may need replacing although I imagine the measurements need to be more accurate. Another though for the fuse upgrade earlier, what's wrong with 60A? Unless you have an electric shower, and hob I'd have thought that would be enough (although I think ours is 100, but the house is "only" 20 years old).

Edit just did some maths, didn't really think about how much current one of those ~11kw ones would use :eek: . Might be easier converting to a hot water tank if you do have an electric one, I imagine changing the cabling from your box to the next step would cost a fortune.
 
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The DNO will usually upgrade 60A supply for free, even if that means connecting a brand new supply cable to your house or unlooping you from your neighbour if that is an issue.

60A really doesn't get you very far with the advent of EV's and the electrification of heat. An EV charger and an electric shower kicking on at the same time could blow a 60A fuse if there is no power management functionality in the charger.

It's not inconceivable that you may have an induction hob, electric oven, and EV charger and a heat pump. My oven and my hob will pull 50A when going full tilt, that doesn't leave you much headroom at all for anything else on a 60A.
 
Broke our workhorse van on Friday night -

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So borrowed a friends workhorse

TUc2uli.jpg

Ahh, the joys of no MOTs and 35mph speed limits :D

Spent most of our day loading it with waste and heading to the tip / recycling centre - feels less productive than a normal day of working on the house, but all needs to be done at some point.
 
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PermaChanged said:
Broke our workhorse van on Friday night -

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I recently drove a '71 VW Beetle and the gearbox was just like that, except that's how they are and it wasn't even broken :cry:
 
theone8181 said:
Possibly not what you want to hear, but I would have gone for s concrete post and nit have to worry snymore, mainly as you say the rest may need replacing although I imagine the measurements need to be more accurate. Another though for the fuse upgrade earlier, what's wrong with 60A? Unless you have an electric shower, and hob I'd have thought that would be enough (although I think ours is 100, but the house is "only" 20 years old).

Edit just did some maths, didn't really think about how much current one of those ~11kw ones would use :eek: . Might be easier converting to a hot water tank if you do have an electric one, I imagine changing the cabling from your box to the next step would cost a fortune.
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I think half the problem is the levels eitherside of the fence are uneven (About a 6" difference) Means that part of the post is exposed to damp sopil on a permanent basis.

If I end up replacing the entire fenceline I will consider other options. This was a £30 quid fix (Post and postcrete) to make the fence serviceable again.
 
Sin_Chase said:
I think half the problem is the levels eitherside of the fence are uneven (About a 6" difference) Means that part of the post is exposed to damp sopil on a permanent basis.

If I end up replacing the entire fenceline I will consider other options. This was a £30 quid fix (Post and postcrete) to make the fence serviceable again.
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There is always the future option of a bolt down Met Post, now that you've got the start of a concrete base.
 
Cleaned all our air conditions and checked all the heaters.
We are ordering some new equipment from rheem and i had to check what else needs a replacement.
The job is done, i will have another conversation with the rheem customer service here and will place my final order tomorrow.
 
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