Associate
I thought this might be the case but aside from filling the sink quicker than it can drain if using just cold on full blast it’s not splashing around, but good shout on using the isolators to tune it down if needed.
What "man jobs" have you done today?
- Thread starter jaybee
- Start date
Soldato
It really depends. In applications where you have fairly consistent occupancy i.e., a home, UFH is great. It runs at low temperature and you can have a reasonable dT. If you have an application where the occupancy changes a lot, a school for example, you need a heating system with a much quicker reaction time. You could, in a school, do your base load to offset fabric loss with UFH and then use rads to top up in periods of low occupancy. But at that point you may as well stick with rads with fast acting thermostatic heads (ideally gas, respond 4 times faster than wax and two times faster than liquid).
Soldato
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- 27 Mar 2013
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Good example however the nursery my kids went to had ufh (although it must have made the place 30 degrees, it was very toasty). I think they purely did it to stop little hands getting burnt, so wouldn't surprise me if schools (primary ones at least) used the same mentality (can't actually remember what the kids school has as it's been a while since I visited).
Soldato
Yeah there's a lot of that. SEN classrooms have all sorts of provisions to prevent the kids touching things.
The reality is that radiators shouldn't be hot enough to burn anyone. If they're operated in that way, they're doing it wrong. But that's the UK...******!
Soldato
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- 19 Jan 2006
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Yep, and we have roughly a nominal 60mm thick slab which will be acting as our radiator - aiming for flow temps of 40c or lower from the ASHP to keep us toasty and our efficiency nice and high.
Soldato
My two isolating valves with lever on are coming tomorrow so been under the sink and turned mains valve off and on then opened the system drain valve to let water drain from pipes through a piece of permanent hose pipe on drain valve just going through the wall.
Checked the tube of Fenex sealer to see if it's soft and it is, so now all ready to go. Changing the outside tap isolator valve which has siezed in open possition.
Much less cussing when I do the job.
Checked the tube of Fenex sealer to see if it's soft and it is, so now all ready to go. Changing the outside tap isolator valve which has siezed in open possition.
Much less cussing when I do the job.
Associate
Quick sanity check ahead of a job…got an oak mantle weighing about 22kg. It came with gripit red plasterboard fixings that are rated for 74kg on 9.5-15mm plasterboard. It’s from a mantle/fireplace specialist and all fixing they supply are fully tested so I trust they’re good.
However, I’ll be fixing it to 10mm mdf “media” wall. My head says the mdf would be stronger than plasterboard so should be fine. On delivery he called up the main guy who said it’d be good but still just have a nagging feeling about it though can’t really think of anything better aside from fitting batons behind and screwing direct into them instead.
However, I’ll be fixing it to 10mm mdf “media” wall. My head says the mdf would be stronger than plasterboard so should be fine. On delivery he called up the main guy who said it’d be good but still just have a nagging feeling about it though can’t really think of anything better aside from fitting batons behind and screwing direct into them instead.
Soldato
I think it might help if you could show a picture of how it should be mounted? I'd would also only worry about it briefly and then just go for it. The MDF should be stronger than plasterboard, and all the force is going downwards anyway.
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It’s also worth noting that those fixing will only be rated that that load directly downwards. As soon as you add any kind of shelf then the load drops dramatically due to the leaver action.
If it’s something that interacts with a person, the dynamic load that they could put on it (E.g. someone leaning or a kid pulling on it).
Is it on an external wall? If so use a proper fixing like Corefix (or similar) that goes into the brick/block.
If it’s on a stud wall then put at least one fixing into a stud.
I wouldn’t be trusting a 20kg oak shelf to be hung on plasterboard alone, that’s asking for problems. If it’s just securing a floor standing mantle to the wall then plasterboard fixings will be fine.
If it’s something that interacts with a person, the dynamic load that they could put on it (E.g. someone leaning or a kid pulling on it).
Is it on an external wall? If so use a proper fixing like Corefix (or similar) that goes into the brick/block.
If it’s on a stud wall then put at least one fixing into a stud.
I wouldn’t be trusting a 20kg oak shelf to be hung on plasterboard alone, that’s asking for problems. If it’s just securing a floor standing mantle to the wall then plasterboard fixings will be fine.
Associate
Here’s a pic of the shelf and fixings. As said it’d be mdf rather than plasterboard.
So it’s 3 floating mounts each taking 2 of the grip it fixings which need an 18mm hole to insert.
So it’s 3 floating mounts each taking 2 of the grip it fixings which need an 18mm hole to insert.
Soldato
I'd worry more about 10m MDF flexing and warping (over time) than the strength of the holes TBH.
Associate
Yeah thought on it more and going to grab some timber to run the entire length and screw into the outer studs. Probably then another piece to brace it with the stud above and below so can then screw or bolt directly the mounts into the wood.
It’d “probably” be ok but I’d worry anytime someone so much as looked at it funny.
Associate
As my mate put it, it'd probably be fine but I build based on my child who will try and rip it off the wall, so plan for the little **** and you should be ok.
Missed your post directly above mine tbf lol. But yeah, plan for gymnastics apparatus and you'll be good
Associate
Put some plasterboard up in the garage today, not finished, everything hurts now though!
Soldato
Pulled 6x CAT6 and coax cables from top to bottom floor, and removed half the tiles in the kitchen. Chasing for kitchen cables should start soon, and need to smash out a space for a washing machine tomorrow.
I haven't looked at our fuse yet, but expect the supply cabling is not up to 100A. Have you checked yours?
Yep, it's a total mess. Can't touch the fuse yourself, supplier will do the job you just had done for £450, but the network are meant to do the fuse. Basically everyone wants to be hands off but you can't touch any of it yourself. I did what you've had done so I can then rewire myself and replace the consumer unit. Not bad value really.Got another man (boo hiss) to add to this:
So it looks like this:
All for just 100 quid. Annoyingly he reckoned UKPN do the fuses as I need a 100amp for the car...
I haven't looked at our fuse yet, but expect the supply cabling is not up to 100A. Have you checked yours?
I had a sparks in who reckoned the cable was up to 100amp.
To be honest though, car chargers are a total rip off and pretty crap still - and we are surviving on a 3 pin plug - so I might get consumer unit + an outdoor 13amp socket fitted and be happy from there.