Soldato
- Joined
- 27 Mar 2013
- Posts
- 9,348
I'm always paranoid about plumbing fixes. Imo stuff like electric (changing of fascias and stuff like that) are fairly obvious if they're OK, but plumbing can really mess up the house.
What "man jobs" have you done today?
- Thread starter jaybee
- Start date
Soldato
Started fitting a wardrobe fitting. I posted a thread on it here
forums.overclockers.co.uk
got most the internals in just realise I'll have to take the pull down rail in the right out to then fit the other shelf...
Initially I intended to put a veneer cover panel on the bottom section but to be honest I'll have to cut down the thickness to 9mm or so to do it... I could do it with a router across the whole back section just might take a while!
Anyone see any issues taking 9mm thickness out a 300mm by 1600mm panel? (or alternative ways to do it?)
Anyone built their own internal wardrobes? Recommended suppliers?
Hi all, Anyone built their own internal wardrobes? I had a design and price from Hammonds but to be honest their proposal was really uninspiring. I quite fancy splitting the wardrobe down the middle with right hand side 2 sets of rails. The upper hanging rail will need a pull down system...
forums.overclockers.co.uk
got most the internals in just realise I'll have to take the pull down rail in the right out to then fit the other shelf...
Initially I intended to put a veneer cover panel on the bottom section but to be honest I'll have to cut down the thickness to 9mm or so to do it... I could do it with a router across the whole back section just might take a while!
Anyone see any issues taking 9mm thickness out a 300mm by 1600mm panel? (or alternative ways to do it?)
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Soldato
Despite having no experience whatsoever I re-wired my Mum's house when she was buying it in the early 90's. It had to be done on a tight budget because she couldn't mortgage it until the work was done, so it seemed do-able... in those pre-regulation change days anyway! It passed its inspection first time when Norweb came to connect up the fuse box, and the house still hasn't burned down.
Not sure I'd want to do it again, but electricity's a tame beast... give or take the killing you thing... and the dark arts of two way light switches! It obeys rules though, and doesn't sneak out when you're not looking. Water, on the other hand, obeys only gravity (rising damp excepted), can ruin everything you own in hours, and sneaks through gaps even an octopus would turn all its hands up at to reach all that obedient electricity and make life very complicated very quickly.
So, er... I've always swallowed the plumber premium for peace of mind. It's not what they do I pay for, it's what they might have to do if things don't go smoothly. I am still leak free (apart from a very, very, very slow drip on an untouched compression joint. But that won't tighten "easily" and needs removing to put tape on, I think. And I'm disturbing nothing for a while in case I've exhausted my beginner's luck!
Edit: I may or may not have set up a spare webcam in the garage so I can check it tonight without getting out of bed! Had to have several cameras to keep an eye on Mum in her early dementia years, and they're still coming in handy.
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Soldato
Electric planer and lots of time and mess.
Router and even more time and more mess, plus faff setting up.
Take it to a chippy's workshop for a pass through the thicknesser?
I've done what you describe with a router for small pieces when making musical instruments and jigs for said task. Doesn't sound fun for anything over about a square foot...
Soldato
Pulled the cooked out for the repair guy to look at and managed to snap a plastic bracket that held a panel in place. So made myself a metal bracket and fixed it up 
Soldato
Electric planer I've got is crap and only does 2mm a pass, so router is easy to get uniform. I've set it up/put a bit in already to hide some of the fixings to the back so that's easy and can attach my henry to it.
Looks like the router is leading!
Aye thicknesses would be ideal but it's time/effort /concern it will break during transport.
Don
Popped home and replaced a toilet flush valve that decided to stick in the open position. Typically happened 2 minutes after I left for work this morning, rather than at the weekend 
Took up floorboards.
Chopped up pile of floorboards
Notched and chopped out joists 18mm with a plunge saw (who was circular saw...
) CH pipes ran over the top of these so had to work under them, and refit the joists, in situ.
Tackle the bottom of the old chimney stack as this now sat proud of the new joist height.
Boarded what we could have the new floor and sorted the cold feed for the washing machine. let the O/H loose with my impact driver...
+ numerous other odd jobs that I lost track of.
In short the doors in the extension and existing build have been fitted a few cm too low which means flooring will come up too high against the door frame. We stopped the builders screeding to 'full height' in the new extension as we were concerned, just as well. Quarry tiles and self leveling came up in what was the 'old' kitchen. So what we've boarded will determine floor height throughout all three areas.
For context.
Chopped up pile of floorboards
Notched and chopped out joists 18mm with a plunge saw (who was circular saw...
) CH pipes ran over the top of these so had to work under them, and refit the joists, in situ.
Tackle the bottom of the old chimney stack as this now sat proud of the new joist height.
Boarded what we could have the new floor and sorted the cold feed for the washing machine. let the O/H loose with my impact driver...
+ numerous other odd jobs that I lost track of.
In short the doors in the extension and existing build have been fitted a few cm too low which means flooring will come up too high against the door frame. We stopped the builders screeding to 'full height' in the new extension as we were concerned, just as well. Quarry tiles and self leveling came up in what was the 'old' kitchen. So what we've boarded will determine floor height throughout all three areas.
For context.
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Soldato
- Joined
- 19 Jan 2006
- Posts
- 4,638
Got the gable end window finally installed last week!
Also got the sofa out of the shipping container, first time sitting on a sofa in this house in the last 9 months, and it's absolute bliss!
Also got the sofa out of the shipping container, first time sitting on a sofa in this house in the last 9 months, and it's absolute bliss!
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Soldato
- Joined
- 19 Jan 2006
- Posts
- 4,638
I've just noticed from seeing these photos full sized, that our grotty shipping container on the back of the drive is visible in the sliding door refleciton - cannot wait to be rid of that thing!
Soldato
@BennyC I'd get some insulation under that floor and also clip/tie the pipework to the joists so it doesn't rattle (i presume it's tied somewhere?)
We'd planned to and actually had a breathable membrane and rockwool on hand to do so (PIR not breathable enough - so I'm told) but my O/H decided against it on the basis it was actually not cold at all underneath. Her house and she's footing the bills so it's her call!
Those pipes are likely going to be moved and/or clipped properly. The builders plumber didn't have full access to those pipes previously as floorboards were down so just Tee'd off the ends to run tails to the extension for a radiator. I expect he'll clip them down properly once they've been moved. Two tee's are actually laying slightly on top of one another protruding above the joist so need addressing anyway.
CH is leaking in a corner of the room you can't see so he'll be back sooner than he thought...
Does she realise up to 20% of the heat from the property will be via the floor?
‘Feeling cold’ is all about drafts and not insulation, retaining heat via insulation is all about cutting energy usage. You can make a shed with no insulation feel warm very easily, it will just cost you a fortune in fuel.
PIR should be fine, the air bricks do all the ventilation under the floor and you don’t want that cold air leaking up into the house.
Rock wool is also fine, you just need more of it to achieve the same job.
As others have said, given the price of fuel (not coming down anytime soon, if ever), it’s huge missed opportunity there.
‘Feeling cold’ is all about drafts and not insulation, retaining heat via insulation is all about cutting energy usage. You can make a shed with no insulation feel warm very easily, it will just cost you a fortune in fuel.
PIR should be fine, the air bricks do all the ventilation under the floor and you don’t want that cold air leaking up into the house.
Rock wool is also fine, you just need more of it to achieve the same job.
As others have said, given the price of fuel (not coming down anytime soon, if ever), it’s huge missed opportunity there.
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Soldato
Fair enough yeah I'd put down some rock wool and netting /similar, low cost and these days high gain.
Yeah you just don't want rattling pipes which i previously had!
Soldato
- Joined
- 19 Jan 2006
- Posts
- 4,638
Those CH pipes will be outside of the heated envelope of the building so insulating under them/the floor is even more important.
Really should have insulted imo, the worst bit of that job is removing the floor which had already been done (haha I bet the op is glad he posted on here ) fyi, the correct stack for insulating under the floor is netting or breathable membrane (latter preferred) rockwool then a vapour barrier then floor boards, the vapour barrier is a must to prevent interstitial condensation forming in the rock wool and rotting the joists. You can use PIR between joists but its way more expensive and the gaps between and over the joists must be ally taped again to create a vapour barrier so the water in the humid air above cant get to the cold joists below.
) fyi, the correct stack for insulating under the floor is netting or breathable membrane (latter preferred) rockwool then a vapour barrier then floor boards, the vapour barrier is a must to prevent interstitial condensation forming in the rock wool and rotting the joists. You can use PIR between joists but its way more expensive and the gaps between and over the joists must be ally taped again to create a vapour barrier so the water in the humid air above cant get to the cold joists below.
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Soldato
what about space blankets?