Soldato
- Joined
- 27 Mar 2013
- Posts
- 9,348
I've ordered a pump/heating element for my dishwasher. Don't expect it before next weekend lol. First world problems 
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.What "man jobs" have you done today?
- Thread starter jaybee
- Start date
Caporegime
HoHoHo!
Soldato
How come you're using that stuff? I believe it costs more? Also are you going 270/300mm or just 200 total?First stage of sorting out my roof insulation was starting with the hatch to replace the random bit of 30mm celotex that was on it and replaced with 100mm recycled insulation (not itchy too!), held in with gorilla tape. This is the stuff I'll be using (two layers to make it 200mm) in the roof in the coming weeks, removing the old insulation which has fallen to bits and is only <100mm.
Id roll 100 in the joists and 200 across the joists. Personally I left the existing stuff and rolled 200mm over it as removing the old stuff is the itchiest/worst part.
It probably does cost more but is easier to work with. Yes I might leave whats there and go over it the other direction as heard thats a good thing to do, either 200 or 300mm total.
edit: Also got two 6 ft LED baton lights to replace the two old 5 ft fluorescent ones, should improve the lighting further.
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100 in joists, 170 across - that gives you easy options with loft legs (170 height).
Soldato
Stick with the celotex. They offer much more insulation per mm than the wool/fluffy stuff.
What's the size of your loft hatch
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Soldato
Aye for the loft hatch I'd have kept the celotex. For the rest of the hatch standard insulation wool.
Soldato
I used that recycled plastic insulation in our attic conversion. Lovely stuff to use, it felt like the insides of a winter jacket. I was especially happy to use it as it was during the heatwave - so I could work in just my shorts.
Cost more? Perhaps, but worth it not to feel the itch ever again.
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Soldato
I 3d printed a pair of brackets to mount a led strip light to our roof box. The wiring is all easily removable, and powered by the cigarette socket.
Soldato
What was it that you used exactly?
Soldato
Diall Insulation roll, (L)6m (W)0.37m (T)100mm | DIY at B&Q
An eco-friendly alternative to traditional glass wool insulation, this recycled plastic insulation from Diall is comfortable to work with and is completely itch free. It is extremely easy to lay and comes in handy sized rolls to fit many existing rafter spaces.
www.diy.com
Soldato
To be honest I put my standard fibreglass insulation into my loft in shorts and vestv(plus gloves/mask /goggles), as long as youre not removing old stuff which tends to be worse I found it fine.
Soldato
I used some Knauf acoustic insulation in our ensuite wall and it was much nicer than the old yellow stuff. Still did it wearing a mask, gloves and a long sleeve top.
The plastic I didn't use anything.
The plastic I didn't use anything.
Soldato
Ahh right ok I've heard about these before. Any good? One thing I did not like is the colour. It can easily get dirty lolDiall Insulation roll, (L)6m (W)0.37m (T)100mm | DIY at B&Q
An eco-friendly alternative to traditional glass wool insulation, this recycled plastic insulation from Diall is comfortable to work with and is completely itch free. It is extremely easy to lay and comes in handy sized rolls to fit many existing rafter spaces.www.diy.com
Soldato
Aye for the thick acoustic slabs I won't even bother wearing a mask, it's fine. I'll wear some gloves but it's not really necessary
Teed off and left tails for another small radiator in the kitchen. The builders plumber obviously doesn't know his left from right or flow from return so the TRV on this rad will need to go on the RHS 
I should have really checked myself but just took his word/markings for it.
Wasn't able to bury a standard elbow deep enough in the floor for it to sit below finished floor level so quickly soldered some elbows to some offcuts and used a straight coupler instead.
T+G flooring will be laid once the builders have added a thin self levelling to match the existing plywood seen on the left, so can be got at if ever really needed without too much trouble.
My second hand £30 wall chaser coming in handy to knock out a 40mm channel which houses two runs of 15mm pipe quite nicely.
I should have really checked myself but just took his word/markings for it.Wasn't able to bury a standard elbow deep enough in the floor for it to sit below finished floor level so quickly soldered some elbows to some offcuts and used a straight coupler instead.
T+G flooring will be laid once the builders have added a thin self levelling to match the existing plywood seen on the left, so can be got at if ever really needed without too much trouble.
My second hand £30 wall chaser coming in handy to knock out a 40mm channel which houses two runs of 15mm pipe quite nicely.
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Managed to finish tiling before Xmas but still need to grout. The room met on the door and was only 0.5mm out so I’m please with that.
3m of UFH (150W/m) on 20mm marmox insulated tile board so plenty of insulation
First time I’ve done a wet room tray and basically for a 800x 800 tray I made 4 400mm squares and cut on the diagonal with a rubi tx1250 I borrowed off a mate. It can do 1.25m tiles. Then a rubi diamond for the angle grinder to trim the drain surround The height is set by rotating the fitting to desired height
tiles cut and ‘bent’ on the 45deg corners of room. And new wider architrave to avoid slivers. Towel rad Piping all in the wall and noggins for the mounts put in before the walls were marmoxed so even kids hanging off it won’t pull it off the wall
300x400 marmox niche tile trim slightly proud so a chamfer of grout will cover the cut tile edges
As it is now below. wall tiles are porcelain and nice and consistent, the position of the niche and going up to a full tile meant I was 250mm ceiling which wasted a lot of tiles as the bottom was 320mm so the 450mm of I moved it it up a bit I could have save the extra tile boxes I needed but no big deal floor tiles 600x600x 10mm but the 4 boxes were same batch but massive variation in shade in the end we decided to use the lighter ones for the tray area to look intentional. Should be less noticeable with the 1950 x 1000 screen Got a icon 15 extractor to go in and mirror demister
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Out of interest what’s your reasoning for this?
The Hep20 straight couplers will be wrapped prior to self levelling.
Is a compression fitting considered more robust or reliable than a decent push-fit coupling?
Or is this just your preference?