What "man jobs" have you done today?

dLockers said:
Top man thank you. Apparently there is a keyed alike product on Amazon so I'll do a bit of research.
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There are two different versions, one with a rim lock and the other with a euro cylinder.

I thought perhaps you could replace the euro cylinder with one to match the house, but apparently these have 10 tooth cogs which aren't common.

You can probably get multiple locks with the same bitting, but I bought mine at different times.

Good locks though and easy enough to fit.
 
dLockers said:
One of those may even just screw into the architrave you have around your existing latch:
www.screwfix.com

Manthorpe GL250 Insulated Drop-Down Loft Access Door White 686mm x 856mm - Screwfix

Order online at Screwfix.com. Sleek, clean design with multiple catch locks for an excellent seal. FREE next day delivery available, free collection in 1 minute.
www.screwfix.com www.screwfix.com

Alternatively, just whack a board of PIR on top of your existing latch. It is a bit ***** but you can often find chunks of it by skips where people have had loft conversions done.
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Does look quite smart, the only thing is the ceiling is artex so would have to be a similar size (although "modifying" the existing bit isn't too much of a big deal).
 
Almost finished with the WC.

T08cJ1A.jpeg

Dragonflys up, soap dispenser is up, lesson learned on the crappy Amazon taps:
1. Grohe tap starter kit was like 15 quid cheaper
2. Grohe waste has a mating surface that wastes can connect to
3. Grohe tails are 3/8th and need a reducer (bladdy expensive at 7 quid each!).

Did a final coat altho really I need some proper bathroom paint mixed up as water beads are visible when it gets splashed.

Just need to silicone and then do the floor (whichll be the entire ground floor as a one-er).
 
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dLockers said:
Any thoughts on external gate handles/lock-sets chaps?

I have a bunch of Union mortice locks that I could use, if you think they stand half a chance of surviving outdoors?
www.screwfix.com

Union Fire Rated 5 Lever Stainless Steel Mortice Sashlock 68mm Case - 45mm Backset - Screwfix

Order online at Screwfix.com. Steel, 5-lever sashlock. High quality and durable with radius inner forend for ease of installation. Keyhole protection prevents forced entry by picking. Supplied with 2 keys and fixings. FREE next day delivery available, free collection in 1 minute.
www.screwfix.com www.screwfix.com

I'm keen to be able to access the rear of the property from outside.
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I’ve been using a mortise lock from the old back door in my garden gate for over 4 years now. It’s still working fine!
 
theone8181 said:
The reason I ask is that my hatch is on the landing, quite far from rads so not sure if heat loss would matter. Its also one where you lift it up, then bring it down through the hole, the position of the hatch and plumbing and joists make it difficult to hinge it (could hang down, but that's quite a bit of work, but might be a job for the future).
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It definitely will matter. That's like having a hole in your roof and saying, well it's very far away from the rads. I don't mean to be flippant, but that ain't logical.

Heat loss is heat loss, no matter where it's occuring. In heating a house, you want to minimise heat loss as far as possible.
 
Any tips for fixing creaky stairs? Have the carpets up but no access to underneath the stairs. Have tried screwing the risers into the treads which definitely makes things more rigid but has actually led to even louder creaking!
 
Macky said:
Any tips for fixing creaky stairs? Have the carpets up but no access to underneath the stairs. Have tried screwing the risers into the treads which definitely makes things more rigid but has actually led to even louder creaking!
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I have the same issue with my stairs, I loath to take the plasterboard out underneath to gain access, but really it's the only way to fix them as this video shows.

 
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theone8181 said:
I watched that exact video and not for the thumbnail :cry: . I've tried beefing ours up, but access is poor. Thicker underlay did improve it though.
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Ha likewise. I watched a video about applying a watery coat of PVA glue to the joins. Also to use talcum powder to act as a lubricant. Will give the talc a try and report back.
 
norm said:
I have the same issue with my stairs, I'm loathed to take the plasterboard out underneath to gain access, but really it's the only way to fix them as this video shows.

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"Should take yer bloody shews of gowin oop stairs!" was my initial thought and then that's a sad need to attract views.
 
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