What "man jobs" have you done today?

Still waiting for our Wickes kitchen install to be finished (Been going on since end of Feb now) :rolleyes:

They ordered the wrong amount of worktop so the wait continues.

In the meantime, I noticed one of the plinths was badly fitted with nothing to hold it in place to the right of the integrated washing machine (no plastic leg to clip it to). So I made a small modification with two plastic blocks to tidy it up :)
 
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Just about to install under counter led lighting and just wanted to check one side. There’s 2 sets of wires currently terminated and I only need one for the led driver so I assume I can just terminate the spare back away, or would it be linked and need to use both/return back to the other cable?

ubosAxY.jpg
There is another single cable above a different counter, all of these are to a single light switch.
 
Itchytrigg said:
Just about to install under counter led lighting and just wanted to check one side. There’s 2 sets of wires currently terminated and I only need one for the led driver so I assume I can just terminate the spare back away, or would it be linked and need to use both/return back to the other cable?

ubosAxY.jpg
There is another single cable above a different counter, all of these are to a single light switch.
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That looks like mains 2.5mm2 cable and likely the ring main?


If so I would change to wago's (maintenance free connections) and yes you can spur IF it is the ring main (you need to check it's not just a junction box). I believe you can spur twice if its a in a fused unit but a sparky would know more.
 
Itchytrigg said:
Just about to install under counter led lighting and just wanted to check one side. There’s 2 sets of wires currently terminated and I only need one for the led driver so I assume I can just terminate the spare back away, or would it be linked and need to use both/return back to the other cable?

ubosAxY.jpg
There is another single cable above a different counter, all of these are to a single light switch.
Click to expand...
Worth checking a few things but most likely, that is a link in the chain so to speak. One side probably is fed from the previous point/device, and it goes on to feed other points. If it's a ring main then it's each side of the ring - if it's a radial circuit e.g. lighting then it means it's not the final point. Only the final point would have a single connection.

Don't break a ring final circuit, you wouldn't notice but you've compromised its safety if you do. If it's a radial circuit then you'll know if you break it because something won't turn on!

What does the labelling say?

Also: there should be a protective earth cable in those connections, please check there is one I can't see! Strip the earth conductors and join them properly.

dLockers said:
You reckon I need a Stilh?

Honestly I am going to go backrupt but have such a wicked tool collection. I hope the bedsit I end up in is large enough.
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He who dies with the most tools wins, we know this!
 
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LuckyBenski said:
Worth checking a few things but most likely, that is a link in the chain so to speak. One side probably is fed from the previous point/device, and it goes on to feed other points. If it's a ring main then it's each side of the ring - if it's a radial circuit e.g. lighting then it means it's not the final point. Only the final point would have a single connection.

Don't break a ring final circuit, you wouldn't notice but you've compromised its safety if you do. If it's a radial circuit then you'll know if you break it because something won't turn on!

What does the labelling say?

Also: there should be a protective earth cable in those connections, please check there is one I can't see! Strip the earth conductors and join them properly.


He who dies with the most tools wins, we know this!
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Only thing it says is under cabinet lights in sharpie…the cable on the left unit is only one, so presumably it’s part of the same radial so I can’t just use one without disabling the other side.

On the other side there was an earth I could make out had been cut. I have just finished connecting the driver and controller that side and your making me think I should stop and find the earth.
 
Itchytrigg said:
Only thing it says is under cabinet lights in sharpie…the cable on the left unit is only one, so presumably it’s part of the same radial so I can’t just use one without disabling the other side.

On the other side there was an earth I could make out had been cut. I have just finished connecting the driver and controller that side and your making me think I should stop and find the earth.
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It may be that there is no use for the earth right now e.g. no metal back boxes and the LEDs are plastic. But the earth protects you if you snip through a cable accidentally too. Plus sometime in the future if changing fittings, an earth should always be available.
 
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LuckyBenski said:
It may be that there is no use for the earth right now e.g. no metal back boxes and the LEDs are plastic. But the earth protects you if you snip through a cable accidentally too. Plus sometime in the future if changing fittings, an earth should always be available.
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Cheers appreciate the quick reply. Had to stop anyway as realised I ordered the wrong led connectors, leds are 10mm and I got 12mm!

Gives me the time to make sure I deal with this mid point in the radial correctly. Ordered some wago 3 way splicing connectors so I can spur out and not break the radial.
 
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Not today but over the weekend.

Removed,/cleaned the old caulk/silicone around two windows and redid it with hybrid sealant.

Got the ladders up and fixed/blocked up the side of the roof where since starlings were getting in.

Pulled up some floorboards and bricked up, then concreted a solid base for a new slate hearth.

So a very productive weekend.
 
All my IT kit is in a little cupboard under the stairs (1 firewall, 2 switches, 1 NAS, two Xeon servers, one Plex PC etc) and I've had to keep the door ajar for ventilation which annoys the mrs as it's in the hallway of the house. Bought a vent thing and fitted it today, it should hopefully mean I can have the door closed. Ignore dodgy drill holes and trunking, it's on the list to do.

Cutting stuff.

IMG-7396.jpg


Done away with the plasterboard fitting thing using snips. Ignore black cable, I need to terminate a new one.

405370-D3-D594-493-F-A6-B8-9-B0-C66830596.jpg


In and working, it's American hence it's showing in Fahrenheit. Door open and it was 65 degrees, door closed for a short while with everything on and the fan on low and it's showing 77. That'll do nicely.

IMG-7405.jpg


Added bonus is that my hallway is always freezing as is my office near it, hopefully a little bit of bonus warmth.
 
dLockers said:
Chaps,

Can anyone recommend a Sawzall blade that can cut through tree branches etc? I may have blunted the ones I got in my kit but they didn't seem super effective.

I want something with teeth like a bow saw :p :cry:
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theone8181 said:
Chainsaw on a stick :D .
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If not a chainsaw on a stick, then how about a chainsaw on a rope? :) H&S sit back down, it's just the chain that's on the rope!

I kid you not, it's great for branches you can't reach - you fill the little pouch at one end with rocks and chuck it over the branch then push/pull the rope ends to cut the branch. It's not perfect though, I once got a chain stuck in a branch which made a slightly dangerous branch in to an evil falling branch with metal teeth.
 
Fitted a transfer switch to allow me to seamlessly switch between mains and generator power if there's a power cut. Been on the "to do" list for ages, so I decided to tidy up the ropey looking mains input box we inherited at the same time as fitting a second box alongside it with the new transfer switch and over current trip in it, along with some future proofing space as well.

The generator I bought months ago as a none runner (well, it ran but spewed out water and was generally in a very poorly state, diesel engine wise), has now had a full CW engine rebuild, to ridiculous standards, just cos I can and I am that sort of a guy <LOL>

I mean, who in their right min balances an 1800 RPM 3 pot 3.3 litre Perkins diesel and does a 3 angle valve job on the head...? :)

before.jpg


switch4.JPG



switch1.JPG
 
With the bank holiday weekend ahead I've got plans to create a turning point/additional parking spot off our driveway and into the front lawn, as highlighted in orange here;

What "man jobs" have you done today?

More heat gun stripping, two doorframes this time, one sanded, then life got in the way and had to spend a few hours tidying. Sigh. Back to it I did the bottom of some door frames with the No Nonsense paint stripper as recommended. Then I did the first doorframe with a coat of Bedec Aqua...
forums.overclockers.co.uk forums.overclockers.co.uk

The space will be 5.5m long by 4.5m wide, I've got a mini excavator being delivered tomorrow afternoon, as well as a vibration plate compactor and 7.5t 20 down aggregate. I've got 2.55t of decorative aggregate for the finished surface level. The plan of attack is as follows;

Dig out area ~220mm deep
Compact area, then lay weed membrane
Lay 200mm treated sleepers around the external perimeter where the parking pad meets the lawn sides (house and driveway form my retaining wall for the other edges) - laid level with the current driveway.
Drill pilot holes in sleepers and drive 650mm rebar spikes through them to keep them pinned down
Add 20 down aggregate to a thickness of ~140mm fully compacted
Add the decorative aggregate to just below the top edge of the retaining timbers ~60mm fully compacted.

Anything I've overlooked/missed?
 
PermaChanged said:
With the bank holiday weekend ahead I've got plans to create a turning point/additional parking spot off our driveway and into the front lawn, as highlighted in orange here;

What "man jobs" have you done today?

More heat gun stripping, two doorframes this time, one sanded, then life got in the way and had to spend a few hours tidying. Sigh. Back to it I did the bottom of some door frames with the No Nonsense paint stripper as recommended. Then I did the first doorframe with a coat of Bedec Aqua...
forums.overclockers.co.uk forums.overclockers.co.uk

The space will be 5.5m long by 4.5m wide, I've got a mini excavator being delivered tomorrow afternoon, as well as a vibration plate compactor and 7.5t 20 down aggregate. I've got 2.55t of decorative aggregate for the finished surface level. The plan of attack is as follows;

Dig out area ~220mm deep
Compact area, then lay weed membrane
Lay 200mm treated sleepers around the external perimeter where the parking pad meets the lawn sides (house and driveway form my retaining wall for the other edges) - laid level with the current driveway.
Drill pilot holes in sleepers and drive 650mm rebar spikes through them to keep them pinned down
Add 20 down aggregate to a thickness of ~140mm fully compacted
Add the decorative aggregate to just below the top edge of the retaining timbers ~60mm fully compacted.

Anything I've overlooked/missed?
Click to expand...

Beer.
 
I cut the grass in the back garden and put left-over cuttings in the green bin which wouldn't fit last time.

After that I installed some wire mesh under my daughter's trampoline so that a certain cat can't get under there to do its business, and then I planted some water cress seeds with my daughter.
 
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