What "man jobs" have you done today?

Buffman said:
Hey all Plz help. Where is the quickest/easiest way to get a replacement blade for one of these?

My mini pruning chainsaw has gone dull and as you can tell I'm a bit of an amateur.
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I've had a quick google for you (Makita 1912E8-3 6 Inch for DUC150) and although lots of place sell it most if not all are out of stock. Seems to be a popular tool at the moment. I'll see if I can find an Oregon equivalent (most are Oregon anyway), nope, couldn't find an equivalent but these folk have some in stock - https://www.moleavon.co.uk/makita-chain-for-duc150-pruner/p62619 be quick!

Now would be a good time to learn how to sharpen it :).
 
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Mysterae_ said:
I've had a quick google for you (Makita 1912E8-3 6 Inch for DUC150) and although lots of place sell it most if not all are out of stock. Seems to be a popular tool at the moment. I'll see if I can find an Oregon equivalent (most are Oregon anyway), nope, couldn't find an equivalent but these folk have some in stock - https://www.moleavon.co.uk/makita-chain-for-duc150-pruner/p62619 be quick!

Now would be a good time to learn how to sharpen it :).
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Ah thanks unfortunately that website says delivery then go to order and it's collection only.

Weird that it's not available elsewhere I don't think I'm googling properly!
 
Buffman said:
Hey all Plz help. Where is the quickest/easiest way to get a replacement blade for one of these?

My mini pruning chainsaw has gone dull and as you can tell I'm a bit of an amateur.


www.powertoolworld.co.uk

Makita DUC150Z 18v LXT Cordless Brushless 150mm / 6" Pruning Saw Body Only

Makita DUC150Z 18v LXT Cordless Brushless 150mm / 6" Pruning Saw Body Only The Makita DUC150 cordless brushless pruning saw is easy to use, lightweight and compact which enables easy pruning of garden or orchard trees. With a brand new tool-less change and tension adjustment of saw chain, plus...
www.powertoolworld.co.uk www.powertoolworld.co.uk
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Isn't it right of passage to sit there and sharpen by hand?
 
Oregon equivalent chain in this link
www.newsawchains.co.uk

Oregon 80TXL032E / 80TXL032X / 80TXL032 SpeedCut Nano Chainsaw Chain -

Oregon 80TXL032E / 80TXL032X / 80TXL032 SpeedCut Nano Chainsaw Chain - 32 Drive Links Pitch: .325" Low Profile, Gauge: .043" Expanded Top-Plate Filing Indicators and depth gauge filing indicators area make accurate sharpening easier Blued Cutters deliver high-quality protection against corrosion...
www.newsawchains.co.uk www.newsawchains.co.uk
 
Buffman said:
Hey all Plz help. Where is the quickest/easiest way to get a replacement blade for one of these?

My mini pruning chainsaw has gone dull and as you can tell I'm a bit of an amateur.
Click to expand...

Having sharpened a lot of chainsaw chains its not that hard or time consuming especially for small chains. However small lower grade chains are cheap and similar/cheaper than a sharpening kit so I can appreciate the quick option. I always keep a spare so I can sharpen the other one at leisure or use it for the work that damages chains such as near the ground/exposed roots. For smaller branches/exposed roots a reciprocating saw is actually a good and less messy option plus blades are cheap to replace.

Whatever you do with the chain, do ensure the chain isn't too tight or loose as the former damages the chain guide, drive and chain even with enough oil. For devices without auto tensioning you leave them loose for storage, tighten (not too much) before use and again if they sag when hot but that's more an issue with longer chains.
 
Simon42 said:
Having sharpened a lot of chainsaw chains its not that hard or time consuming especially for small chains. However small lower grade chains are cheap and similar/cheaper than a sharpening kit so I can appreciate the quick option. I always keep a spare so I can sharpen the other one at leisure or use it for the work that damages chains such as near the ground/exposed roots. For smaller branches/exposed roots a reciprocating saw is actually a good and less messy option plus blades are cheap to replace.

Whatever you do with the chain, do ensure the chain isn't too tight or loose as the former damages the chain guide, drive and chain even with enough oil. For devices without auto tensioning you leave them loose for storage, tighten (not too much) before use and again if they sag when hot but that's more an issue with longer chains.
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Aye i was using the reciprocating saw on the tree roots but **** me the vibration off it is terrible.
 
Janesy B said:
Bed made, curtains up, pipe snaps on manky old painted rad pipes, carcasses of wardrobe up, just need to let them settle on the carpet with weight in them for a few days and I'll attach to the walls and fit them out.






Curtains and lampshade are temp until I find something more fitting (not grey).
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Man job? Not sure net curtains and bedding are man jobs but here I am. I know nets are old fashioned but it matches the 70s council house theme.



Just the wardrobes to fit out and I need to trim 1/4" off the bottom of the door so I can close it.
 
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964rs said:
Oregon equivalent chain in this link
www.newsawchains.co.uk

Oregon 80TXL032E / 80TXL032X / 80TXL032 SpeedCut Nano Chainsaw Chain -

Oregon 80TXL032E / 80TXL032X / 80TXL032 SpeedCut Nano Chainsaw Chain - 32 Drive Links Pitch: .325" Low Profile, Gauge: .043" Expanded Top-Plate Filing Indicators and depth gauge filing indicators area make accurate sharpening easier Blued Cutters deliver high-quality protection against corrosion...
www.newsawchains.co.uk www.newsawchains.co.uk
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Thanks for posting this in my other thread as I missed it xD. ordered 2! (as well as 2 ebay specials.... Let's hope it's not wish.com /temu tier :X).

I also sharpened the chainsaw today semi properly and does seem to get it working but its a lot of effort/getting blunt fairly quick so figure best to replace
 
Got 2 packs of tiles ready+all tools etc, measured and made all cuts and then stood there with that look as I realised I didn't have any flexible adhesive
Packed all away and made some fudge :cry:
 
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aVdub said:
Got 2 packs of tiles ready+all tools etc, measured and made all cuts and then stood there with that look as I realised I didn't have any flexible adhesive
Packed all away and made some fudge :cry:
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That's always my issue - the time spent getting tools out of shed ready/prep/packing away/cleanup is always always 10× the actual time spent doing the job.
 
Knocked out the lower wall after work today. Going to rebuild it using the leftover blocks from the main wall, I've hated the "natural" stone wall since we bought this place.
 
Well I'm annoyed.
Decorating the kitchen and I decided to not settle for cheap roller sleeves and brushes so I went to my local Brewers decorating centre to pick up some stuff. I went for some Microfibre Albany sleeves, which I believe now to be Brewers own brand ones possibly? I thought they were high quality but they've just shed throughout application completely, leaving bits all over the ceiling and walls. I only realised about half way round the room. I've had to go round picking them out and sanding back.

I wetted the sleeves and squeezed them out before use. I didn't do the wrap tape around them thing though to pull out all the loose bits of fibres. During use, even big full length fibres just pull out. Absolute ****. I thought I was getting something decent as they were trade sized sleeves for trade rollers.

Shall I go for Purdy or Hamilton ones or something else? Where to buy? I need something short or medium pile as walls already quite smooth.

Edit. Forgot to also say the Albany brushes were equally poor. Lost loads of brush hairs in the paint. They weren't cheap either.
 
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jaybee said:
Well I'm annoyed.
Decorating the kitchen and I decided to not settle for cheap roller sleeves and brushes so I went to my local Brewers decorating centre to pick up some stuff. I went for some Microfibre Albany sleeves, which I believe now to be Brewers own brand ones possibly? I thought they were high quality but they've just shed throughout application completely, leaving bits all over the ceiling and walls. I only realised about half way round the room. I've had to go round picking them out and sanding back.

I wetted the sleeves and squeezed them out before use. I didn't do the wrap tape around them thing though to pull out all the loose bits of fibres. During use, even big full length fibres just pull out. Absolute ****. I thought I was getting something decent as they were trade sized sleeves for trade rollers.

Shall I go for Purdy or Hamilton ones or something else? Where to buy? I need something short or medium pile as walls already quite smooth.

Edit. Forgot to also say the Albany brushes were equally poor. Lost loads of brush hairs in the paint. They weren't cheap either.
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I have always used masking tape on new sleeves because of this, drives me mad when bits start coming out! The other way is to wash them on a quick wash in the machine, no need for a crazy spin speed, 800rpm is normally enough, leave it out over night and its dry by the next morning.
 
Took another length of gutter down - cleaned it out then did sofits and gutter brackets - All back up now - Got to stage where I can only do one at a time - Other good thing is we have a bungalow which makes it dead easy.
Only three more lengths to go.
 
DXP55 said:
Took another length of gutter down - cleaned it out then did sofits and gutter brackets - All back up now - Got to stage where I can only do one at a time - Other good thing is we have a bungalow which makes it dead easy.
Only three more lengths to go.
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I've got some gutters I want cleaning but I want the high ones done which is 3 stories high, dormer roof loft conversion. When I asked a local guy that knocked on my door one time, he said he couldn't do that high. So err...how do people get them done? Long poles? Scaffolding erections?
 
Dug some holes for me new shed. digging 500/600 mm deep is painful! Absolutely full of stones, roots and hard ground

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jaybee said:
Well I'm annoyed.
Decorating the kitchen and I decided to not settle for cheap roller sleeves and brushes so I went to my local Brewers decorating centre to pick up some stuff. I went for some Microfibre Albany sleeves, which I believe now to be Brewers own brand ones possibly? I thought they were high quality but they've just shed throughout application completely, leaving bits all over the ceiling and walls. I only realised about half way round the room. I've had to go round picking them out and sanding back.

I wetted the sleeves and squeezed them out before use. I didn't do the wrap tape around them thing though to pull out all the loose bits of fibres. During use, even big full length fibres just pull out. Absolute ****. I thought I was getting something decent as they were trade sized sleeves for trade rollers.

Shall I go for Purdy or Hamilton ones or something else? Where to buy? I need something short or medium pile as walls already quite smooth.

Edit. Forgot to also say the Albany brushes were equally poor. Lost loads of brush hairs in the paint. They weren't cheap either.
Click to expand...
I like the blue hamilton sleeves, I got a big box of 4" prodec medium sleeves from amazon for cutting in etc and they were good.
 
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