What "man jobs" have you done today?

Started stripping some rather detailed architrave and frame (4-5 hours) on original windows from around 1915.

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Looks like hard work!!

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Think I'm going to chance my life with one of these:
Sunster Diesel Air Heater 8KW, All in One 12V&24V&110-240V, night Parking Heater with NEW LCD, Remote &APP Control AC-DC Power Adapter,Fast Heating for campervan RV Bus Car Trailer garden tents https://amzn.eu/d/23CdCr7
 
Looks like hard work!!

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Think I'm going to chance my life with one of these:
Sunster Diesel Air Heater 8KW, All in One 12V&24V&110-240V, night Parking Heater with NEW LCD, Remote &APP Control AC-DC Power Adapter,Fast Heating for campervan RV Bus Car Trailer garden tents https://amzn.eu/d/23CdCr7

It’s lovely stuff. Gigantic bay windows downstairs with 12 panes each I’m not looking forward to.
 
Are you using heat or chemicals? I did it on my mum's 1960s house and I swear I've lost several years off of the backend lol.

Just heat, this window definitely doesn't have original paint on it from what I could tell only 2 or 3 layers.

I'll probably use peel-away or similar against the glass bead given heat will create a risk it cracks.
 
I have pulled my finger out and done the worktops I also made some wooden table tops for our side tables and printed some air flow guides for a friends extractor so it stops making tornados in the kitchen.
 
Started prepping the loft to insulate. So many redundant telecoms cables up there. Also redundant plumbing from a legacy install. The pipes go into a boxed in section in one of the below rooms which I'd like to remove. What's the best way to do this?

Note to self, buy a bloody dust mask next time.
 
Started prepping the loft to insulate. So many redundant telecoms cables up there. Also redundant plumbing from a legacy install. The pipes go into a boxed in section in one of the below rooms which I'd like to remove. What's the best way to do this?

Note to self, buy a bloody dust mask next time.
I'd probably open up the boxing and confirm everything in there is going to come out from your loft work.

So steps like this:

1. Buy a pack of decent dust masks
2. Remove the boxing and inspect
3. Remove pipework

:D
 
Fireplace in loft room had a 'flap' that wouldn't open... filled a 12L flexibucket.

Chimney's were rebuilt/pointed at some point.

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Crawled down the eave with the hoover clean up the loft massacre, never ending cluster fly invasion.

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Plumbed the new rad in the dressing room. Left the valves on when I moved the pipes when system was last drained, chuffed with how well my measurements worked out. :cool:

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Haha did you know the chimney was going to give you a gift? For cluster flies I used two of those smoke bombs and they've been gone ever since
There was a little gift when I gave it a nudge so I was prepared!

I’ve used a few smoke bombs now of varying sizes, they all work and it’s no where near as bad as it was initially but a good 6-7 weeks on and there is still some life in there.

Hoping the cold kills them off. I have a good idea of where they find their way it but I don’t really want to spray foam around roof trusses/joists if I can help it.
 
I’ve used a few smoke bombs now of varying sizes, they all work and it’s no where near as bad as it was initially but a good 6-7 weeks on and there is still some life in there.

Hoping the cold kills them off. I have a good idea of where they find their way it but I don’t really want to spray foam around roof trusses/joists if I can help it.
Have you considered also using fly trap bags such as these to help catch them more neatly? I don't know how well they'd work indoors, but I've used these outdoors with very satisfactory results.

The way I'd go about it is to go nuclear and smoke bomb the area, then hang a couple of the fly trap bags up.
 
Pulled up the landing floorboards over the weekend to lay a chipboard floor dowm, noticed several of them had wood worm still active by the amount of fine dust near to the holes. Luckily the joists look OK but had to get the electric planner out to shave two of the joists down a bit to stop the chipboard rocking.
 
Trying to determine if it's worth installing insulated plasterboard in the ~2x2m box room which I'm using as an office. It has two external walls and a large window. It does feel a bit cold in there. Has anyone done similar? I think given the size of the room, I'd opt for the thinner stuff, such as 30mm insulation. I'd also need to negotiate a window. Not sure how straightforward that would be.
 
Trying to determine if it's worth installing insulated plasterboard in the ~2x2m box room which I'm using as an office. It has two external walls and a large window. It does feel a bit cold in there. Has anyone done similar? I think given the size of the room, I'd opt for the thinner stuff, such as 30mm insulation. I'd also need to negotiate a window. Not sure how straightforward that would be.
I did it, made a huge difference. Warms up quicker takes longer to cool. Doesn't have that cold/moist feeling
 
It's a no brainer really. I'd only need 4 boards at less than £50 a pop. Will opt for the expanding foam adhesive rather than dot and dab dry wall mix having watched a couple of YouTube videos. Need to sweet talk my mate with a van to pick boards up for me..
 
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