Hipping Hall was fantastic. It's an old building with a mixture of new and old furnishings, which in some areas (the lounge particularly) makes it look like a bric a brac shop. The dining hall is all old beams and medieval pics and not overfilled with tables.
I'll apologise immediately because there were two dishes that I scoffed before taking a pic. The first was the oyster, which was served by the head chef Oli, and I was distracted because we talked a bit about his Masterchef Professionals experience. Everybody mentioned it to him and I think I detected a well-hidden sigh in one or two of the replies to other customers... maybe he's getting tired of the same questions. When someone asked him about his daughter he was more enthusiastic. Lots of credit for still facing the customers, though. I always think it's a shame when you don't even see the chef around. The other missing pic is the trout, which looked so intriguing I couldn't help but dig around to investigate immediately.
First up, the Butter Pie canape which smelled of dairy and truffle. It was like a thin crisp pastry (like Indian Pani Puri) with cheese and butter cream inside, and more cheese and some black truffle outside. Two very punchy, delicious bites and gone. A strong start:
Then the missing oyster, which was chopped and dressed with kohlrabi, elderflower, and small capers. It was fresh, smelled of the sea, and was awesome.
Next up, the tartare of shorthorn beef with onion puree and hay. This had gentler flavours but was no less a dish for that. The hay was crunchy against the soft meat. A great, understated dish:
Next the Jerusalem Artichoke which saw us back in the land of strong savouriness and excellent balance. Crunch came from the puffed grains on top , and the slippy mushroom loveliness underneath. Nom:
Then came one of the revelations of the night, eggy bread! It featured Hen of the Woods mushrooms and a special sauce of local Fellstone cheese which was really tangy and salty. There were pickled Wild Garlic flowers that cut through the rich cheese beautifully. Dried mushroom julienne on top. Hnnng:
Then the missing-pic trout dish. There were pickled roots on top, with a melty/soft trout steak below and orange roe in-between. The buttermilk sauce brought acidity and the roe popped with saltiness. The fish was soft and delicate (poached in rapeseed oil). Really delish.
More veg next, with the beetroot (raw, lightly-pickled, and well-cooked) and cultured cream (slightly savoury and yeasty) with an aromatic and divine langoustine bisque. We could smell the bisque whenever this dish was served to anyone in the dining room. There were squid ink brioche to mop up the bisque (the black mini loaves). Ooh la la:
On to the duck, which was cooked to perfection and served with sprouts stuffed with chestnut and black garlic paste, and had salsify on the side. Went beautifully with the Piedmont red they served it with, also featuring an excellent duck fat sauce:
The pre-dessert (from the ingredients it wasn't clear if it was a main or a pud, so we asked) had mushroom caramel, quince, and oak ice cream. Intriguing, soft flavours and very nommy:
Next, the Pine-Apple dish that he did at The Chef's Table on Masterchef. It was pared back (after all, I'm not Greg Wallace) and I accidentally ate some of the buttered and sugared apple peel before I took the pic. A stunning dessert with strong apple and mild pine flavours. Amazoid:
Finally, there were crunchy pear bon bons to go with coffee:
The wine flight was good without blowing me away. There were three whites up to the duck (the English one with the trout was best-matched) and the Italian red for the duck was great. The Sparkling Saki for the puds was well-matched but not particularly my cup of tea. The service was excellent. The youngsters were enthusiastic and knowledgable. I asked about the Chalk Stream Trout (no chalk soils up here!) and he said it was from the River Test. They deserve a lot of credit for absolutely improving the experience.
In summary, there are no frills or theatrics, just lots of really well thought out dishes, executed perfectly. No ten out of tens but all nine out of ten. His first Michelin star can't be far away. When you take the prices into consideration, this is fantastic value. I fully recommend it #nommage