Who here owns a Renaultsport?

Soldato
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Few pics then :), had H&R springs fitted, think it will still settle a bit more, as i have only done 20 miles on them so far :p

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Rear spoiler swapped over, for 265/275 version

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Seat belts fitted

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Soldato
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Warwickshire
Not really planning on changing the seats atm, i have got a spare steerting wheel, gear knob and gaiter, and handbrake and gaiter, to be retrimmed with red stiching. Yeah this a Cup, so has the LSD ect
 
OcUK Staff
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Been wanting an old school hatch for sometime, missed the boat with Peugeot 205 GTI's, all the nice ones to me are now 10k plus, which I deem to much on an old French shed, albeit much fun. So I was looking at Saxo VTS, but not much for those, really wanted a 106GTi but again cleaner unmolested examples are either none existent or vastly over priced, was so tempted to buy this:
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2001-Peu...446985?hash=item36379fb349:g:aaIAAOSwAOdbS00F


It is very over priced, got chatting with the owner who sold it them, they gave him £3500, he had it advertised at 4k, no takers, to be honest I said if I'd been browsing and seen it at 4k I'd have had it off him, contacted garage, they won't move and I feel at 6k its over priced, yes in another 2-3yr it would fetch that money all day long as they are going up. I still might go and buy it and just put it in the garage, but we shall see. :D

So as my criteria was ideally sub 1000kg, FWD, old school, by that I mean small and compact in size so you can fling it down a back lane and well something that is starting to move up in value. I started to look at Clio 172 cups (no ABS, no AC, thinner glass 1011kg model). Perfect condition average milers with no mods are going for 4-5k, higher mileage examples in average condition around 3k. Very high mileage or modded ones or track ones (no interior) were around 2-3k.

I then found a 1 owner 55k low miles car, owned by an older gentlemen, asking what seems like a great price (2k asking) for the fact it was such low miles and still the original owner. Went to view tonight, body and interior is good condition, some paint chips as to expected on 15yr old car. All the wheels need a refurb, ideally four good tyres and it needs a cambelt, dephaser, aux belt, pullies change as its never been done, owner was under impression was not due until 72k miles, at which point I informed him it should be also done every 5yr. Based on the fact car needs a lot of TLC, I got it for quite a bit off the asking price, I am certainly happy with what I paid. :)


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Due to the dephaser making the car sound like a diesel, the drive home was in 5th at 60mph all the way, car picks up great though in 5th at 60mph, feels strong.
Brake pedal feel is pretty amazing, guess thats the no ABS setup, though it has got new pads and disc all round.
There is no knocks, clunks over bumps, in fact the car feels surprisingly tight and the ride is really quite good.
Shell is essentially rust/corrosion free. :)
I did throw it around some corners, not using power and it feels planted but feels oversteer, yet the rear does not slight, odd sensation, but it is on ditch finders, but the turn in is superb.
Also got 48mpg on trip home, it then promptly got its first tank of Vpower, I suspect the first in its life.

Car has service history, some Renault, some just regular garage, but its been on road since new, MOT every year, overall clean example in need of TLC.

Got it booked in with a specialist for:
Full service including plugs
Cambelt service
Aux belt service if it has one
Dephaser & accessory drive pulleys
Rocker cover reseal
New waterpump
New thermostat


I feel the dephaser and cambelt is a ticking time bomb, hence getting that sorted before its driven again, whilst its been done it makes sense to get all the above done. :)

Shall then get the wheels refurbed and throw on a sticky yet fun tyre like AD08R or other sticky semi slick. Touch up the paint chips and enjoy.

Throughout ownership I shall slowly restore it, no mods as idea is to keep it as close to standard as possible if I do any mods they shall be really only things Renault did themselves like maybe 182 manifold/cat and a panel filter, then remap to around 190HP, will be a proper pocket rocket for sure and fits in with my other two blue beast well.

Shame they only did these in blue and silver, was hoping for a different colour other than blue.

So fully restore it, get it properly serviced, enjoy it and try not to put more than 10k miles on it as in 5-10yr I am confident such a car with such low miles and low amount of owners will be worth quite a lot of money, one thing for sure I won't lose any money I could flip this now and make a grand, but I intend to enjoy it. :)
 
Associate
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Nice one, welcome to the money pit of Renault Sport ownership haha! Which specialist are you using?

I'd check the rear shocks (or at least change them anyway as its so easy) as that often gives an odd oversteer sensation through the rear -

https://www.renaultpartsdirect.co.u...s/clio-172-clio-182-cup-rear-shock-absorbers/

Also worth signing up to membership for the guides are parts sections alone -

https://www.cliosport.net/forums/cliosport-guides.42/

EDIT:
Also it won't make 190bhp with those changes, they don't even make book power. 190bhp+ will require a different set of cams.

Some thoughts on the usual cliosport 'mods/improvements'

•Clear side indicators like on the later 172 cups
•Phillips Silvervision indicator bulbs, removes the fried egg look from the headlights/brake lights
•I know it wants to remain standard but check out the Ktec induction kit or google the Fatty induction kit for DIY. Its really quite addictive in terms of sound (I have the Ktec)
•Fresh numberplates, Proplates have a slightly smaller front plate option which makes it fit the front recess. Free shipping code is knocking about, I'll try and find it.

Now these cars are getting a bit older there are two common rust areas which are worth investigating / performing preventative maintenance.

1) Around the fuel filler neck, have a look for any slight bubbling. They normally rust from the rear which can be access through the wheel arch. If its all good its definitely worth getting a bit of fresh underseal on it.

2) Rear arches are starting to go but from the inside where it meets the sill. Taking the back seats and rear door cards off gives you access, once again, if all good then its worth getting some cavity wax in there.

https://www.cliosport.net/threads/ph1-172-rust.813058/
 
Last edited:
Commissario
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Herts
Nice purchase mate!

Get the belts done asap as said, that could blow at any minute.

Also a remap, 182 manifold and panel filter won't get you 190bhp I'm afraid, might get you back to the book figure of 172 ;)
 
OcUK Staff
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Nice one, welcome to the money pit of Renault Sport ownership haha! Which specialist are you using?

I'd check the rear shocks (or at least change them anyway as its so easy) as that often gives an odd oversteer sensation through the rear -

https://www.renaultpartsdirect.co.u...s/clio-172-clio-182-cup-rear-shock-absorbers/

Also worth signing up to membership for the guides are parts sections alone -

https://www.cliosport.net/forums/cliosport-guides.42/

EDIT:
Also it won't make 190bhp with those changes, they don't even make book power. 190bhp+ will require a different set of cams.

Some thoughts on the usual cliosport 'mods/improvements'

•Clear side indicators like on the later 172 cups
•Phillips Silvervision indicator bulbs, removes the fried egg look from the headlights/brake lights
•I know it wants to remain standard but check out the Ktec induction kit or google the Fatty induction kit for DIY. Its really quite addictive in terms of sound (I have the Ktec)
•Fresh numberplates, Proplates have a slightly smaller front plate option which makes it fit the front recess. Free shipping code is knocking about, I'll try and find it.

Now these cars are getting a bit older there are two common rust areas which are worth investigating / performing preventative maintenance.

1) Around the fuel filler neck, have a look for any slight bubbling. They normally rust from the rear which can be access through the wheel arch. If its all good its definitely worth getting a bit of fresh underseal on it.

2) Rear arches are starting to go but from the inside where it meets the sill. Taking the back seats and rear door cards off gives you access, once again, if all good then its worth getting some cavity wax in there.

https://www.cliosport.net/threads/ph1-172-rust.813058/



Shocks - ordered! :D (Simply to cheap not too)

Power wise, what are the mods to do that give the biggest bang for buck and won't change the car so much. I was simply planning panel filter, 182 manifold/cat and a map. If there is a different route, I am listening. The Ktec sounds interesting and Ktec is a name I have come across a lot in Renault world so I guess they are the go to brand for performance tweaking.

Yes was gonna order plates, what size from pro plates do I need for the front then?

Fuel filler shows no sign of corrosion and no signs on arches, but shall do as you say to protect it, was also gonna clear out all the drainage holes at the front and rear too.



No belts in 16 years :eek:.

I am actually amazed that hasn't grenaded itself.

Nice purchase mate!

Get the belts done asap as said, that could blow at any minute.

Also a remap, 182 manifold and panel filter won't get you 190bhp I'm afraid, might get you back to the book figure of 172 ;)



Yes I know its a ticking time bomb, trust me the noise, its like an insanely loud diesel tractor engine, as the dephaser pulley is rattling itself apart, hence why it is now parked and its next run is to the specialist for all the work I outlined, fingers crossed it makes it there. :)
 
Associate
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Push it to the specialist just to be sure :D

When I had my Trophy I just did an RSTuner map and a V6 airbox for performance mods. The engine is already pretty highly tuned this side of Throttle bodies/forced induction.
 
Commissario
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Ktec induction kit is a good buy, I had one on my 182 and it sounded like it had throttle bodies!

Decat if you have a friendly MOT tester is also worth doing.

Brakes are also worth looking at too - I had Ktec braided lines, Brembo HC discs and Ferrodo DS2500 pads which made a big improvement over stock.
 
Associate
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Shocks - ordered! :D (Simply to cheap not too)

Power wise, what are the mods to do that give the biggest bang for buck and won't change the car so much. I was simply planning panel filter, 182 manifold/cat and a map. If there is a different route, I am listening. The Ktec sounds interesting and Ktec is a name I have come across a lot in Renault world so I guess they are the go to brand for performance tweaking.

Yes was gonna order plates, what size from pro plates do I need for the front then?

Fuel filler shows no sign of corrosion and no signs on arches, but shall do as you say to protect it, was also gonna clear out all the drainage holes at the front and rear too.

Power wise there is very little that is worthwhile on these N/A engines. Only way for decent increases is turbo charging or cams with something like an RS2 inlet. All very expensive for the gains though. I'd honestly just enjoy the handling over the power lol!

182 manifold could be done to get a couple of bhp but not really sure it worth the effort of dropping the subframe etc. A remap is definitely still worth it and helps to generally improve the drive-ability of the car. Much better idle, improved power curve. Get it done at EFI or RS Tuning (Leeds).

Proplates front size is 520mm x 85mm, Discount code: cliosport
 
OcUK Staff
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On the subject of cams, it would be worth doing uprated cams if the belts are being done. Definitely look into this @Gibbo

Too much, I don't mind adding an air filter, some 182 manifolds and maybe a remap, but that is where I will draw the line, right now I plan on nothing, belts first, see how it feels. Adding cams, remaps is a grand and would probably de-value the car by a grand as well to a collector in the future.
But thank you for making me aware as yeah would save on labour.

Gonna get belts and full service done. Get it checked over, might fit fresh dampers and springs (original) all round, along with top mounts, fresh bushes etc. to fully threshen the suspension so it drives as it did when new and then focus on the restoration. Don't mind an induction kit for a bit on induction roar, certainly don't want an exhaust, though its got one on it anyway, not a performance once, but no longer original as it rotted away.
 
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Good buy that. I almost bought a 182 several years ago but as soon as I test drove it, I knew I wouldn't have been able to live with it as a daily/cruiser.

I'm tempted to try a bit of Renault life for myself for cheap track time fun.

I've been mostly leaning towards an EP3 or a banged up FN2 as I know a fair amount about them and they can handle the constant abuse with the small addition of a baffled sump.

Not really sure on Clios; 172, 182, 197 or even a 225.

Can they be bought and just go straight on track? Or do they need a bit of work to get ready for sustained track abuse?

You can buy any car and go straight on track, you then want to go faster and thus comes the expense. I suspect a good stock car, semi slick rubber and can't see why a 172 or 182 cup would not be quite capable out the box. Though the 197's have really been hit hard value wise, seen those as low as £2500, they handle better than the 172 and 182, the reason they not holding value as they are not classed as that old school appeal, too large, too heavy etc. But overall they are a better car and the best pick of the bunch is the 200 cup.

I wanted old school, small car, light car, as little electronics as possible, a wise decision with a French car I feel. :D
 
Associate
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The dephaser shouldn't fail really, it will just get louder and louder and make the car sluggish. My 200's dephaser was on the way out but I lived with it till I could get it done at the same time as the cambelt.
 
OcUK Staff
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Definitely! My friend had a Meg 225 for a while and there always had small issues with them. But on a track car I wouldn't care if the window only went half way down or passenger door doesn't unlock with remote locking etc :D

I do like the look of the 197 and didn't know they're superior to the 172/182 for handling, thanks, it's now shot to the near-top of the list!

The urge for more power will ultimately occur (my FN2 case in point), but I'm hoping fully stripping and getting it as light as possible will negate that for a while.

I know the K20 engines will suffer oil starvation especially in the FN2 and DC5 if you stick semi-slicks on and do some hard cornering, I'm just wondering how the 197 engine, for example, would hold up in comparison?

I'm sure I read somewhere that attention needs paying to fuelling, i.e. swirl pots and a higher pressure pump as it can suffer fuel starvation? Other than that, is there anything else to really look out for?

Keep the oil level on max when on track, see how it goes, beauty of these Clio's there is loads of engines for sale, running ones, £300 so you break it, well its cheap to fix.

Just ordered brand new Renault 172 cup dampers all round including top mounts, £185, it simply makes sense to do so as at that price its a steal for genuine items and I am sure the original dampers after 15yr/50k miles are no longer at their best. Now just trying to find some original springs ideally to put on them, or maybe just grab cooksport options just don't like idea of lowering it really.
 
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