Who owns a Mondeo ST220 / ST TDCI?

I don't think the EML should be on but the battery / oil lights probably will be. Same as most cars I think!


Makhaira, I use Ford-spec Castrol Magnatec 5W30. The dealers use Shell Helix IIRC
 
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Yes, but doesn't it go out after a few seconds unless there's a fault..?


I could be mis-interpreting his post however, but it read to me like he was asking which lights should stay on.
 
Out of interest how much would you be looking to spend on a Mondeo St these days to avoid it being a total nail? Or is it more of a case of looking at them on condition invidually now they're at a certain age?
 
After killing my current Mondeo in a flood :p I've got the offer of buying my old ST220 back off my brother for £2.5K.

It's a blue 53 plate facelift with ~60k on the clock, Xenons, etc. A few things to sort on it to make it respectable:

  • My brother had the wheels painted white by Lepsons :rolleyes: so would need a refurb - £400 for Lepsons to sort.

  • Moosing noise? - Replace the IACV or a leak in a hose?

  • Split in front bumper - Was there when I bought it, not noticeable unless up close.

Fair price?

Neil.
 
Sounds good to me if it is tidy overall :) so much car for the money

The moosing is the idle control valve as far as I know yes. People tend to clean or replace them to fix it I believe.
 
A lot of car for the money indeed!
The moosing is intermittent and stops when the weather is cold so I might just clean it initially. I did have to lol the first time I heard it happen in person!

Neil.
 
-Neil- said:
I did have to lol the first time I heard it happen in person!

Neil.
Click to expand...

It is quite an amusing noise!



As a general bit of info for the thread, I changed my spark plugs on saturday, which involved removing the upper inlet manifold. It was fiddly, but not as bad as people make out on other forums! Getting to the rear two nuts (one holds a wiring loom up, the one below that holds the manifold on at the back - you only need to slacken off this nut) was fiddly but fine with a set of ratchet spanners (with a piece of string tied to them in case I dropped them down behind the engine). Then you just remove the six bolts on top near the inlet ports, then two bolts holding on the bracket for a purge valve at the back to the right of the manifold, then there's another bolt attaching a bracket below and to the rear of the throttle body. Disconnect the rear breather hose, brake vacuum hose, and other vacuum/breather hoses that may not flex so well, and gently lift the manifold up. I suspended it at about 45 degrees by resting it on a large ring spanner!


The old plugs were very worn, and it has made a bit of a difference to how the engine feels, particularly at low revs and idle speeds.



If you need to do yours, don't be scared ;)
 
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I'm trying to decide on a replacement for my Cooper S and it's now between the ST220 and Mazda 6 MPS. I love the sound of the ST220 and prefer the look of it, but then the rarity, extra power and AWD in the 6 MPS are equally appealing (can quite easily get the 6 MPS to 300bhp+).

Really can't decide. :(
 
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